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    #61
    Originally posted by Snakelover View Post
    That Eternabond works great. I replaced a section of EPDM a few years back and used the Eternabond to cover the seam between old and new. Make sure surfaces are clean of course.

    [ATTACH]1056491[/ATTACH]

    Yes sir, I’ve used it before. I’m just worried that doing all of the seams could cause a problem in the future if I have to have substantial work done to it, primarily due to hail.

    I treated all the seams with Dicor self leveling caulk today, then rolled on 2 coats of Dicor Coolseal, with reflective ceramic particles in it. Not sure if it will help substantially, but every little bit helps I suppose.

    I installed the RV Air block in the AC last night, and it definitely increased the airflow through the ducts A LOT! I also cleaned up the plenum box in the ceiling with some foil duct tape to help it be more efficient.

    I think I’m still gonna add another AC unit to it though…


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      #62
      Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
      Yes sir, I’ve used it before. I’m just worried that doing all of the seams could cause a problem in the future if I have to have substantial work done to it, primarily due to hail.

      I treated all the seams with Dicor self leveling caulk today, then rolled on 2 coats of Dicor Coolseal, with reflective ceramic particles in it. Not sure if it will help substantially, but every little bit helps I suppose.

      I installed the RV Air block in the AC last night, and it definitely increased the airflow through the ducts A LOT! I also cleaned up the plenum box in the ceiling with some foil duct tape to help it be more efficient.

      I think I’m still gonna add another AC unit to it though…


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Dale, an extra ac is a good idea. How are you going to install it?

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        #63
        I’m gonna cut another **** hole in the roof.[emoji23]


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          #64
          Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
          I’m gonna cut another **** hole in the roof.[emoji23]


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          That is the way you do it. Lol

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            #65
            Originally posted by SabineHunter View Post
            I spent most of today repairing a couple of leaks on the roof of my RV and sealing the seams on the roof. The leaks were from the stupid skylights which shouldn't be there anyway. Who needs the frigging skylights when there are Windows. Besides, I like it dark when I'm sleeping. Also, why is the AC on the roof? It should be located on the sides. This has been going on for decades. There should never be designed holes in the roof. Okay, rant over.
            Not a rant brother, its the idiots way to install stuff. RV’s are made to fall apart, thats the game.

            Its why you’ll never have a better RV than a custom build WellsCargo trailer, RV doors and windows, insulated, with treated floors. Then finish the convertion to your liking. You put your vents at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. Make a slot with a closure so you can open it and slide in the AC when you park it.
            Last edited by Johnny44; 07-24-2021, 07:28 PM.

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              #66
              Originally posted by careybirdwell View Post
              That is the way you do it. Lol

              I’m just gonna add a 13.5, would you recommend Coleman Mach, or Dometic?

              I know how to do it, just have to figure out where, and how to hide the wiring. It will be on its own dedicated plug/extension cord.


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                #67
                A little info for you guys fighting a/c cooling. Check your a/c vents in the ceiling. I removed the grill and found substantial gaps along the duct and vent. Got some aluminum tape and sealed the gaps. Also checked the a/c unit. I taped all the seams and cracks. All of this made a world of difference in my camper.

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                  #68
                  Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
                  I’m just gonna add a 13.5, would you recommend Coleman Mach, or Dometic?

                  I know how to do it, just have to figure out where, and how to hide the wiring. It will be on its own dedicated plug/extension cord.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Do you have a current vent you could use. A buddy just added a third unit to his class a and they dropped one in on an existing vent.

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                    #69
                    Nope, the only vent I have is over the shower in the far back corner of the trailer. I’ll just cut a hole, frame in around it, and tape off the plenum box to seal it good. My only issue may be having to put a wire in wire moulding in one spot.


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                      #70
                      Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
                      Nope, the only vent I have is over the shower in the far back corner of the trailer. I’ll just cut a hole, frame in around it, and tape off the plenum box to seal it good. My only issue may be having to put a wire in wire moulding in one spot.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                      Dale do you have a close or something near the opening where you’re gonna put the AC?

                      I have a close about 4’ away from mine and Carey fished the Romeo to the closet, got some surface raceway and hid the wire inside it.


                      Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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                        #71
                        Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
                        I’m just gonna add a 13.5, would you recommend Coleman Mach, or Dometic?

                        I know how to do it, just have to figure out where, and how to hide the wiring. It will be on its own dedicated plug/extension cord.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        I really don't have a preference on the units. I think the Colemans are built a little better and the parts are more ready available. The Dometics are quieter and a little lighter.

                        The way I always do it is start from the inside. If you don't have a vent, start from the general area you want it. If the is a speaker or light in the area. I will pull them down and run something forward to hit the ceiling rafter in front of it and behind it. Hopefully that will be roughly 14". Also I will try to look around and see if anything else is there to block install. It will most of the time fit right between the ceiling rafters. Then I make a small hole that I can cover with something if I make a mistake, if everything is ok. I cut my 14x14 hole ( I generally go about 13 7/8 x 13 7/8). If everything was right you went rafter to rafter. I then drill my 4 corner through the roof, go on top and square them off and cut my hole it roof. I generally tried to frame it up with with 2x6 or 2x8 depending on roof thickness.

                        Running the wire is sometimes the hardest. Hopefully you have a closet close by that goes from ceiling to floor. If so, I will drill a small hole in ceiling and floor to fish the wire through to the underbelly or storage compartment. Sometimes, I just buy a cord and wire it straight to the unit via the roof and let it hang down the side when using it and strap it down when traveling. Let me know if you have any other questions

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                          #72
                          Originally posted by Mike D View Post
                          Dale do you have a close or something near the opening where you’re gonna put the AC?

                          I have a close about 4’ away from mine and Carey fished the Romeo to the closet, got some surface raceway and hid the wire inside it.


                          Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
                          Going one direction there is a cabinet I can get into. The challenge is that it's kind of a dead space under that cabinet, down behind the TV, and into an area around the top of the outdoor kitchen area. I'm gonna have to do some more recon on that side. Going the other way there is a speaker in the ceiling near the wall, so I could fish from the new AC to that speaker hole, and come out the ceiling and just go over a foot, and down 2 feet, with surface raceway, to get in a hollow divider wall attached to the bunk beds with storage area underneath.

                          Originally posted by careybirdwell View Post
                          I really don't have a preference on the units. I think the Colemans are built a little better and the parts are more ready available. The Dometics are quieter and a little lighter.

                          The way I always do it is start from the inside. If you don't have a vent, start from the general area you want it. If the is a speaker or light in the area. I will pull them down and run something forward to hit the ceiling rafter in front of it and behind it. Hopefully that will be roughly 14". Also I will try to look around and see if anything else is there to block install. It will most of the time fit right between the ceiling rafters. Then I make a small hole that I can cover with something if I make a mistake, if everything is ok. I cut my 14x14 hole ( I generally go about 13 7/8 x 13 7/8). If everything was right you went rafter to rafter. I then drill my 4 corner through the roof, go on top and square them off and cut my hole it roof. I generally tried to frame it up with with 2x6 or 2x8 depending on roof thickness.

                          Running the wire is sometimes the hardest. Hopefully you have a closet close by that goes from ceiling to floor. If so, I will drill a small hole in ceiling and floor to fish the wire through to the underbelly or storage compartment. Sometimes, I just buy a cord and wire it straight to the unit via the roof and let it hang down the side when using it and strap it down when traveling. Let me know if you have any other questions
                          That's about how I have it planned. There is a piece of trim on the ceiling that tells me where a joist is, so a stud finder should confirm the one in front of it 16" away leaving about 14 1/2" between them, then I can block in the sides and seal off that plenum area. As long as all that is how I think it is, the hole will be easy. There is a HD TV antenna on the roof right where I want to put the AC, but I can sort that out as we go, or later....not that important to me. I just hope it's in the middle of the new AC hole, and not on an edge, but I'll patch it if it doesn't line up great. It shouldn't be too tough, I'll run the wire 1st since that will be the hardest part.

                          I'm gonna discuss it with my wife more tonight, but I think I'll move forward pretty soon. I went to United RV today and got my eyeballs on the units, ceiling Assemblies, and the exterior plug.

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                            #73
                            I have a question, where do y’all buy the parts? Can any normal hardware store carry what you need?

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                              #74
                              Originally posted by 3DW5 View Post
                              I have a question, where do y’all buy the parts? Can any normal hardware store carry what you need?

                              Parts for what, specifically?

                              Sorry, I kinda derailed the OP’s original topic.


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                                #75
                                Originally posted by Johnny44 View Post
                                Not a rant brother, its the idiots way to install stuff. RV’s are made to fall apart, thats the game.

                                Its why you’ll never have a better RV than a custom build WellsCargo trailer, RV doors and windows, insulated, with treated floors. Then finish the convertion to your liking. You put your vents at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. Make a slot with a closure so you can open it and slide in the AC when you park it.
                                Yeah, I agree with you on the idiots designing RVs and your ideas sound great, thanx.

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