Bare shaft blues…

[JHarrell89]

Ok, so more often than not I am getting nock left but every so often I will hit the target pretty plum straight but ever-so-slightly nock left. Like only when you get up close you notice. Should I still read this like a weak shaft and just chalk it up to a very good release?

47# Quinn stallion. Bear weather rest. 300 black eagle outlaw full length. 150g insert. 150g up front.

[Briar Friar]

Shooting right handed? Im speculating so. Its not specified.

What happens when you drop or increase point weight 50 grains?

I like bareshafting at 15-20 yards to get a real good flight visual.

[JHarrell89]

Jumped up to 50g and flew more straight but then I started hitting cockeyed again

[Duckologist]

Is your target completely stationary so there's no way it can move? If not, you're wasting your time. All I have is a block target so I stack two cinder blocks on top of it to prevent any movement

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[JHarrell89]

It currently has a vice grip sitting on it…

[DRT]

Is your target completely stationary so there's no way it can move? If not, you're wasting your time. All I have is a block target so I stack two cinder blocks on top of it to prevent any movement

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This but also from further out you can see the flight. Just finished a round of this myself. Switched anchors and to three under. Started out with previous BS thinking it'd be close. Turns out it was way too stiff and giving me a false weak. Funny thing is when I'm close, or right on it, I'll get slight weak, slight stiff, dead on. So then I stop and wait till I'm fresh, next day in the morning if possible, then take couple warm ups before starting again. Last test was bare shafting my wide broadheads out to 15 yards and nailing them in with field points. That after another night's rest. Fatigue can be a real issue in BS testing.
Anyway I'm broadhead testing fletched today and at 20 yards they are flying like darts and I'm good to go. Each one gets three shots with the BH to confirm then in the tube for the trip over the pond.
Good luck with your process. It's worth the effort when that long awaited shot presents itself.

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[Briar Friar]

Jumped up to 50g and flew more straight but then I started hitting cockeyed again…

…Because your human.

My gut says your too stiff. 300 spine and only 300 up front on a 47# bow. I think your getting something like what DRT described with the false weak. I havent been able to shoot/tune full length 300 spine with 300 up front on a 60” 54lb recurve three under…whereas my draw for it is only 28-29”.

If you dont have it already…
I believe youll start to see a shaft shaped wear pattern where itll be slick then goes bald (over time) on the felt where the stiff arrow is bouncing off…the same spot if your form is consistent. The more variable your form the more wallowed the wear spot.

Shoot from afar.

Good luck MrHarrell.

[JHarrell89]

I appreciate it guys. Definitely got the false weak last night. Driving me nuts. I went up an 1/8” in brace height to see if that will help. A bit better, but still tossing them sideways.
I strapped on the quiver and let the string stretch last night. I tried split-finger, shooting glove, no better!

[Sika]

Make sure you're getting a good clean release. When I get wonky arrow flight it's almost always due to a bad release.

[Briar Friar]

I appreciate it guys. Definitely got the false weak last night. Driving me nuts. I went up an 1/8” in brace height to see if that will help. A bit better, but still tossing them sideways.
I strapped on the quiver and let the string stretch last night. I tried split-finger, shooting glove, no better!

I think youre still way too far off. I got to thinking more about what Ive tried. I havent been able to tune full length 340 spine with 300 plus 18 grain inserts up front on my 54# recurve. Thats just me though.

I think its been discussed in a thread on here a few years ago that a shorter brace height can/will cast a heavier arrow better due to a longer power stroke due to maintaining contact longer with the string. Whereas poundage drops too. I may be wrong and it may not apply to your situation due to an improper spine.

[Trumpkin]

You're waaaay too stiff on spine. I'm tuning some new limbs right now. Black Widow PMA Carbon's... 64" bow, 3/16" past center shot, and ~50@32. With 33" 400's I am showing slightly stiff readings with 265 grains up front. A 500 spine is too weak, but if I cut it to 32" I could get it flying straight.

A lot of guys are tuning too stiff an arrow, and don't realize it.

[Bisch]

Bare shaft blues…

I also agree with the “your too stiff” crowd.

I think you could make nearly/full length .400’s work with around 225-250gr or so up front. I’m sure you could get a .500 to work, but you’d have to play with length and front end weight to figure out what exactly was right.

Bisch


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[JHarrell89]

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...jweugHk9-jDzu_

Here’s where I left it. The middle shaft is hitting dead plum

[KenWood]

It’s more important to note the relationship of impact between bare and fletched shafts than how the bare shaft is sticking out of the target. Have you tried grouping with fletched shafts? It’s best to shoot some fletched shafts for a few rounds then fire a bareshaft down in the group. If the bareshaft groups right in there, regardless of how it looks sticking in the target, you will be ready to put on a broadhead( on the fletched shaft). That will tell you if any more tuning is needed. I think 300’s are too stiff for a 47#bow unless you are cut WAY past center.

[JHarrell89]

I will say this, I have changed a number of things since I initially made these arrows. Same bow, different strings, new rest, new grip, etc, you never expect things like that to affect your arrow flight that much…I stand corrected.