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    #16
    Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
    Rebuild the big block.


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    2nd this. OP, why are you ditching the 454?

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      #17
      Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
      Rebuild the big block.


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      BBC has been sitting w/o distributor and spark plugs for 8 plus years and sbc cost less


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        #18
        Any motor heads in here?

        Originally posted by hot_rod_eddie View Post
        So you are swapping a 350 in place of a 454? First statement is there is no replacement for displacement. However parts are cheaper for a small block.
        First cam question - what do you want the engine to do? High end hp or low end torque? Combination of both?
        Important fact, the cam will only work as good as the parts around it. The cam has to fit your setup or you have to change your setup for the cam.
        Call your favorite cam manufacture and get their recommendation. Be prepared with answers to the above questions plus: type of heads, intake, exhaust, manual or automatic trans ( torque converter stall speed), axle ratio and tire size.
        Good luck and have fun.

        Edelbrock single plane intake 650 cfm Holly carb and 327 double hump heads
        3 speed with a granny gear

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          #19
          Originally posted by bowfishtank401 View Post
          Edelbrock single plane intake 650 cfm Holly carb and 327 double hump heads
          3 speed with a granny gear

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          Hey bowfish - There were about 4 types of double hump heads and although most of them flowed better than their counter parts at the time, they don't flow very well. The single plane intakes performs better at higher rpm. However, your engine can't get there because of the heads. Hotrodders in the past made that setup work by destroking the crank and spinning the crap out of it. This is not useful for the streeet.
          If you want to stay simple, get you an edelbrock performer rpm intake (or step up to the air gap) and get 1-5/8 headers. I could pick out a cam that would work "okay", but my suggestion is to call comp or someone and get their expert opinion. You will be much happier with the results.
          My dad has an 87 that is similar, but 305. That granny is a killer.

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            #20
            Originally posted by hot_rod_eddie View Post
            Hey bowfish - There were about 4 types of double hump heads and although most of them flowed better than their counter parts at the time, they don't flow very well. The single plane intakes performs better at higher rpm. However, your engine can't get there because of the heads. Hotrodders in the past made that setup work by destroking the crank and spinning the crap out of it. This is not useful for the streeet.
            If you want to stay simple, get you an edelbrock performer rpm intake (or step up to the air gap) and get 1-5/8 headers. I could pick out a cam that would work "okay", but my suggestion is to call comp or someone and get their expert opinion. You will be much happier with the results.
            My dad has an 87 that is similar, but 305. That granny is a killer.

            That is just what I had laying around intake was giving to me and so were the heads if I have to I can just buy a better intake of fb marketplace


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              #21
              Gonna throw another wrench in the works.....I'd think long and hard about stroking the SBC to a 383. You still won't have the raw torque of the BBC but you will get a huge jump with the correct parts all working together. I've built a few for customers and a couple for myself that worked great in 4wd trucks.....not as heavy as the BB but a lot of low end grunt.
              Just my .02

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                #22
                Originally posted by BETTERLUCKYTHANGOOD View Post
                Gonna throw another wrench in the works.....I'd think long and hard about stroking the SBC to a 383. You still won't have the raw torque of the BBC but you will get a huge jump with the correct parts all working together. I've built a few for customers and a couple for myself that worked great in 4wd trucks.....not as heavy as the BB but a lot of low end grunt.
                Just my .02

                Agreed but as my first (from the ground up) build wanted to start off kinda simple with a standard 350 and beef it up a bit


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                  #23
                  Cubic inches are the cheapest power you can get right now. 383 parts cost the same as 350 parts, with the possible exception of the crank. It’ll never be easier than right now.


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                    #24
                    Trade the single plane for a performer RPM air gap and run a Comp Cams 268H with 1 5/8” full length headers through flow masters. That’s a good combo with those heads and carb. I’m assuming those are 2.02” valved heads and not 1.94”.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
                      Cubic inches are the cheapest power you can get right now. 383 parts cost the same as 350 parts, with the possible exception of the crank. It’ll never be easier than right now.


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                      Well the pistons and conecting Rods are more expensive and so is the machine work for clearances


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                        #26
                        Originally posted by CabezaBlanca View Post
                        Trade the single plane for a performer RPM air gap and run a Comp Cams 268H with 1 5/8” full length headers through flow masters. That’s a good combo with those heads and carb. I’m assuming those are 2.02” valved heads and not 1.94”.
                        I was thinking of that exact cam!
                        This would be the simplest thing to do, but would probably just go with regular performer rpm for cost.


                        As for as going to 383. If this is his first build I would stay away. If dropping $1000 for a rotating assembly, I'd sonic check the block, align hone, bore, etc. Now you getting into more money, time, and complexity.

                        Like Cabeza said - change intake, add headers and 268H (install lifters with it, and check pushrods). Set timing correctly and tune carb and you will be good to go.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by hot_rod_eddie View Post
                          I was thinking of that exact cam!
                          This would be the simplest thing to do, but would probably just go with regular performer rpm for cost.


                          As for as going to 383. If this is his first build I would stay away. If dropping $1000 for a rotating assembly, I'd sonic check the block, align hone, bore, etc. Now you getting into more money, time, and complexity.

                          Like Cabeza said - change intake, add headers and 268H (install lifters with it, and check pushrods). Set timing correctly and tune carb and you will be good to go.

                          I will be taking my block to parks machine in seguin 400$ for a clean and inspection as well as a cylinder honing and a couple other things I forgot


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                            #28
                            Originally posted by CabezaBlanca View Post
                            Trade the single plane for a performer RPM air gap and run a Comp Cams 268H with 1 5/8” full length headers through flow masters. That’s a good combo with those heads and carb. I’m assuming those are 2.02” valved heads and not 1.94”.

                            COMP Cams CL12-268-4 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits is this is what you are talking about


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                              #29
                              That’s the one.


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                                #30
                                Originally posted by bowfishtank401 View Post
                                COMP Cams CL12-268-4 - COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits is this is what you are talking about


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                                Let us know how it goes. Good luck.

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