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    Tuning question

    All over the place with tuning right now and where I want to go with it. Bow was paper tuned with a fletched arrow at the shop and shooting bullet holes. I was the one shooting, so I know that the paper tune was to me and my arrow.

    Was shooting broadheads and they were shooting to the right of my field point. Adjusted the rest ever so slightly and they are now grouping with my field points. Should I call this good or spend the time bare shaft tuning and nock tuning my hunting arrows? I keep my practice arrows separate from my hunting arrows (same brand, spine, etc.) from my hunting ones.

    #2
    If they are flying good don’t create a problem

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      #3
      I would leave it alone. You will be pulling your hair out if you get into all that.

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        #4
        If it works, it ain't broke.

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          #5
          broadhead and bare shaft react the same. So if you adjusted and the broadhead and field point are the same I would call it. now, this does need to be 20 yards minimum. the further back the better.

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            #6
            I would not bare shaft at this poin MTL since it’s likely to do the same thing as your broadhead tuning. However, I’d consider nock tuning any arrow that was a “flyer” from the rear of the group.


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              #7
              Well I moved my rest up and right a click or two and this is what I ended up with. Would you keep bare shaft tuning it or move on to broad head tuning from this point? I was using lighted nocks and took them out before I took the picture as they were messing with the camera on my phone.
              Attached Files

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                #8
                Entry angle is just as important as POI with bare shafts. Get the POI good then work on the entry. The fletched and bare shafts should not only have the same POI but the entry angle should also be parallel.


                [emoji1662]

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mww982 View Post
                  Well I moved my rest up and right a click or two and this is what I ended up with. Would you keep bare shaft tuning it or move on to broad head tuning from this point? I was using lighted nocks and took them out before I took the picture as they were messing with the camera on my phone.
                  If you get perfect arrow flight with bare shaft it is highly doubtful you will need to broadhead tune. I would shoot all my hunting shafts bare and nock tune any that are misbehaving

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                    Entry angle is just as important as POI with bare shafts. Get the POI good then work on the entry. The fletched and bare shafts should not only have the same POI but the entry angle should also be parallel.


                    [emoji1662]

                    Still nock left and don’t think it is a spine issue. Just in case it is, I ordered a 250/275 test kit from day six to test out. If I get the same results will take the bare shaft up to CCR to shoot it through paper and have them change the top hats out. Love that CCR is 10 minutes from the house.


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