Driveways

[Bigdaddy]

Arrow smith went above and beyond but…. Mike being a superintendent all
Of his life he knows what it takes to last. Myself I would not not use recycled asphalt unless a cementious binder is used. Recycled concrete is is good some Leaching can occur and cause the vegetation along the shoulders not to grow. Long term a concrete drive is best second an asphalt with a treated base or sub grade. Asphalt is very weak and needs a stable course underneath.
As long as you have proper drainage most systems should work. A low spot or negative drainage will cause failure regardless of the pavement type
My two cents

[slayr]

You base is going to be key here, then I’d prefer crushed concrete with a decent amount of fines afterwards. If you can get millings that’s even better

[Lungbustr]

I fought that battle for a while. Finally black topped the driveway 3 years ago and that’s the way to go if you can afford it.

You misspelled concrete. Concrete if you can afford it.

[panhandlehunter]

You misspelled concrete. Concrete if you can afford it.

No doubt concrete is better. It was going to cost me $35-40k for my driveway. It don’t mean that much to me. Lol

[gigem95]

No doubt concrete is better. It was going to cost me $35-40k for my driveway. It don’t mean that much to me. Lol

Hell you could buy half a bay boat with that money! [emoji23]


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[RascalArms]

I went with recycled asphalt. You need to do a base first. On mine I put down about 8 inches of clay and crowned it. Then added the asphalt. The asphalt binds with the clay. It has worked very well. Don't just drop rock on the bare ground and expect it to work. Keep the water from standing on the road and it will hold up fine.

I went with recycled asphalt on my roughly 300’ of road as well. And you are 100% right that a good base is a must. I had 4-6” of caliche down on 2 separate occasions prior to bringing in the recycled asphalt. The contractor packed smooth and tight with a roller and spray sealed with some sort of chemical that smelled like a diesel and oil mixture. The road looks perfect still except in the few areas where heavy trucks (concrete and building materials) unfortunately had to drive off of it during our home build process after heavy rains. The trucks would drive off the edge and create deep ruts and pull my crappy black-clay gumbo mud on their tires right onto the road surface. If you can’t remove that crap before it dries and another heavy truck drives over it it pulls little chunks of the asphalt up and you have issues with water seeping in those areas. Those little areas become bigger problem areas over time.
I’ll have to have a refresh after everyone is through driving on it and our build is complete. I’m convinced if you can keep traffic ON the road it will last.

[RMW]

Back in 2006 I had my driveway concreted to my house and barn and it took a little over 200 yds of concrete, back then it was around 70.00 a yd. Couldn’t imagine doing it now at 140.00 a yd. Only thing I don’t like is if truck has a little mud underneath and it falls off when you park in the drive.

[TX_Hoghunter]

I went with recycled asphalt shingles. No base at all. We had driven on the driveway for about a year before putting it down so the dirt was well packed. Around here we have a nice sandy loam for about 18 - 24 inches and then clay.

-john

[Arrowsmith]

Whet sis you get the geo mat ?

I got it at Carroll Construction Supply here in Iowa. They have a location in Dallas. www.carrollsupply.com.

You can order it thru Home Depot. Make sure to get the woven instead of the non woven. The woven fabric is a lot stronger for traffic applications. The non woven is like felt and will stretch more under heavy loads. It is ok for drainage applications or lite loads.

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