Bare shaft tuning question

[Low Fence]

Wow

I’m by far not a Mathews fan boy. But it ain’t the bow

Go back to center. Center rest and loop…. CENTER

1.shoot a fletched arrow at whatever max distance you can realistically hit a 3” dot every time.

2. Take same arrow setup and put on broadhead and shoot. If it hits leave it alone

If it don’t…… the solution to the problem is not in some test kit or more flapper on the twislers. It will be a timing issue, top hat issue, or form issue

Bare shaft CAN mean everything is working great….. but that doesn’t mean very many are capable of achieving it…. Which is why I don’t think most should even attempt it

[rocky]

If your papertears are left or right, with no up or down, you don’t have a timing or spine issue if you’re shooting a release. Left/ right tears are gonna be centershot,grip, or cam alignment. (Top hats on that bow). For me, when I papertune bows, there is a bullethole, or there isn’t.

[enewman]

Lots of good information, some bad.

A side tear is NOT SPINE RELATED. Can you change a side tear by doing something to the spine? YES.

Will turning a bow up or down tell you the arrow is weak or stiff. NO. will it change a reaction? YES.

Let me see if I can explain without going crazy. haha

An arrow has what is called nodes. There are two major nodes. one at the front and one at the back. When an arrow is shot and is flexing the nodes is the point where there is no flex. it would be easier to understand with a picture. (look it up) When tuning, the goal is to have those two nodes in line when the arrow is shot. Suppose both nodes are in line on the shot with a compound bow with a release aid. The spine will not matter. you could shoot a 1000 spine or a 100 spine. (disclaimer I'm not saying ever to shoot an underspine arrow.) underspine arrows will not group with a broadhead on them.

Only looking at what you have. First, a nock right for a right-hand shooter can be hand torque. You need to test.

next, a side tear means your bow is not set up correctly. (let me add an arrow that requires a nock tuning can and will give you incorrect results when testing between a fletched and bare shaft. If you have not nock-tuned the arrows, this alone could be your problem. All arrows should be nocked tune before tuning starts and fletching of arrows. If arrows are already fletch, you should nock tune them at around 3 to 5 ft shooting through paper.

If all is good, then what you are showing is the horizontal nock travel is not set correctly. You need to adjust the cam lean.

Let me add a few things. If everything is set correctly. Side tears are not the spine. It's a horizontal nock travel issue. A high tear or nock high is a vertical nock issue or a weak spine reaction. A low nock is not a spine. It is a vertical nock issue

[rocky]

Lots of good information, some bad.

A side tear is NOT SPINE RELATED. Can you change a side tear by doing something to the spine? YES.

Will turning a bow up or down tell you the arrow is weak or stiff. NO. will it change a reaction? YES.

Let me see if I can explain without going crazy. haha

An arrow has what is called nodes. There are two major nodes. one at the front and one at the back. When an arrow is shot and is flexing the nodes is the point where there is no flex. it would be easier to understand with a picture. (look it up) When tuning, the goal is to have those two nodes in line when the arrow is shot. Suppose both nodes are in line on the shot with a compound bow with a release aid. The spine will not matter. you could shoot a 1000 spine or a 100 spine. (disclaimer I'm not saying ever to shoot an underspine arrow.) underspine arrows will not group with a broadhead on them.

Only looking at what you have. First, a nock right for a right-hand shooter can be hand torque. You need to test.

next, a side tear means your bow is not set up correctly. (let me add an arrow that requires a nock tuning can and will give you incorrect results when testing between a fletched and bare shaft. If you have not nock-tuned the arrows, this alone could be your problem. All arrows should be nocked tune before tuning starts and fletching of arrows. If arrows are already fletch, you should nock tune them at around 3 to 5 ft shooting through paper.

If all is good, then what you are showing is the horizontal nock travel is not set correctly. You need to adjust the cam lean.

Let me add a few things. If everything is set correctly. Side tears are not the spine. It's a horizontal nock travel issue. A high tear or nock high is a vertical nock issue or a weak spine reaction. A low nock is not a spine. It is a vertical nock issue

Most of your post is spot on. The exception is that some single cam bows will have a nick low tear with a stiff arrow. I know that this is not the case with the original post, but needed to clarify.

[enewman]

Most of your post is spot on. The exception is that some single cam bows will have a nick low tear with a stiff arrow. I know that this is not the case with the original post, but needed to clarify.

I would say yes since the cam is on the bottom it would have a nock low.

Thanks for the correction.

[JES]

Bare shaft tuning question

I have this exact same problem that is driving me crazy.

My fletched arrow is bullet holes through paper at 8’. When I go to bare shaft tune at 15 yards I can see the bare shaft shifting in flight, it looks like it could be going sideways for a millisecond.







The bow is fully in spec, cams are synced, spine on my arrow is fine as this same set up was not having this issue previously. I can’t figure it out. This just started after swapping mods to a shorter DL and then going back to the original.

Broadheads and field points are at least 6” apart at 80 yards and maybe 2” or so at 40. Have tried several adjustments and cannot get them to close gap and come together.

Elite E35, 29” DL, 70#
Easton Axis 300, total arrow weight is 525 grains, 257 fps

I leave for work on Monday so am out of time to get this fixed, wife will ship my bow and gear to my outfitter for a moose hunt at the end of September in Newfoundland. When I get home from work I leave two days later so no time even then to mess with it.

Have broadheads zeroed all the way to 80 yards and will have to live with that I guess.

[Loneaggie]

Pretty simple cams have to go right or rest left (assuming right handed). As enewman pointed out horizontal tears out of a compound bow with a mechanical release is not necessarily spine. If you’re shimmed right and rest is way out left there are really only two things left: 1) bad cam lean due to a bad limb 94 bearing or 2) your form: grip, draw length, and dloop length.