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**Low Fence** · 12-20-2021, 01:43 PM

Everything in spec?

Usually if any component is far one sided there’s an issue.
Set rest back to dead center

Did the shop tune it? Or was this “tuned to the shooter”?

**spread5150** · 12-20-2021, 01:57 PM

I have seen some people have luck with moving the rest opposite the way you think the arrow needs to go. Like chasing the field tip to the broadhead instead. *not a bow expert at all *

**Shane** · 12-20-2021, 02:02 PM

Is the fletching hitting something on the way out?

**Duckologist** · 12-20-2021, 02:26 PM

When "we" tuned it, who did the shooting? I don't think your bow is tuned and this is why you are having trouble

**cbd10pt** · 12-20-2021, 02:41 PM

Start over.
Start with a normal arrow- not a ranch pansy rebar.

Like- 350 spine , 20 grain insert, 100 grain head, 29".

Something you know will shoot.

Set rest at 13/16 or whatever Mathews calls for,
Move top hats to allign with rest.
Tweak slightly if needed, then you can play with heavy stuff as long as the windage is the same as your normal arrows you should be good

**HighwayHunter** · 12-20-2021, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by JohnTheGoodAg View Post

I cannot get my broadheads and field points to hit the same spot. Best I can do is get the broadhead to be 6” right of the field points at 30 yards.

Shooting a Mathews V3 31 at 70 lbs with a 29” draw

300 spine 31.5” 60gr insert, 125 gr head

I’ve tried cutting the shafts down to 29.5”, trying 100 gr heads, and moving my rest. When I got the bow and we tuned it we had to put the most aggressive top hats (bigger on right side) and max out the rest all the way to the right to get it to paper tune.

Moving the rest to the left increased the difference between them

Please help, I’m out of ideas

Your arrow spine is way too weak. Shooting 300 spine you’d get away with a 125gr up front, no more. Need to go to a 250 spine to shoot 31.5” arrows and you may not be able to shoot over 150 grains up front. Cut down to 29” arrow you may get away with 150 at a 29” arrow. Time to decide if you’re more committed to 70# draw or the heavy FOC.

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**SRK14** · 12-21-2021, 01:04 AM

Your spine does seem weak. I’ve come to the conclusion that not all fixed heads are gonna fly to the same hole. Small heads such as a slick trick or g5 striker may do it, but I think the list is few. I want my arrow to leave my bow straight and level. I’m not willing to mess up a perfectly tuned bow that I’ve tuned myself. I think that if your spine is right and you bow is in tune then broadhead should be within just a couple inches. Some people claim you can screw whatever you want on and shoot out to however far but I don’t believe the hype. Physics isint on their side either

**HighwayHunter** · 12-21-2021, 03:14 AM

You’ve moved the cams all the way to the left (indication of weak spine), moving the rest to the left would fix a stiff tear, when you do this it gets worse (indication of weak spine) and when you look at any dynamic spine chart it would show a 300 spine is probably optimal for 100 grain points on a 31.5” arrow. You’ll either need to buy a stiffer arrow and cut it to 29” to shoot the weight you want, or you need to lower the draw weight and you may be able to keep the arrow you have but you’ll probably end up somewhere around 62#.

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**enewman** · 12-22-2021, 09:06 PM

Originally posted by SRK14 View Post

Your spine does seem weak. I’ve come to the conclusion that not all fixed heads are gonna fly to the same hole. Small heads such as a slick trick or g5 striker may do it, but I think the list is few. I want my arrow to leave my bow straight and level. I’m not willing to mess up a perfectly tuned bow that I’ve tuned myself. I think that if your spine is right and you bow is in tune then broadhead should be within just a couple inches. Some people claim you can screw whatever you want on and shoot out to however far but I don’t believe the hype. Physics isint on their side either

Physics and aeronautics are on our side if we learn what’s going on. When tuning one of the most over looked part of tuning is the center of gravity (FOC) the center of pressure.

When you learn how this works there is no reason a fixed broadhead will not group with a field point. Velocity also comes into this as well.

When you are done you can swop out broadheads. But this type of tuning is not done by most.

**enewman** · 12-22-2021, 09:15 PM

To the op. Why are you shooting a 31.5” arrow with a 29” draw. At most cut your arrow to 29” carbon to carbon. Depending on broadhead and rest location you could cut another 1.75” off that.

Next if you are shooting fixed head then get that arrow between 15% to 18%FOC. FOC is for arrow stabilization.

Set that arrow at 13/16. Now nock tune the arrows before any other tuning. Now shoot and see what it looks like. Bare shaft through paper is best. Do this at 10 yards. Shoot several times. If tears are not same everytime it’s you. Do not do bare shaft tuning. If you can repeat the tear atleast 6 times. Then yes tune bare shaft. Do not move rest. Adjust top hats.

When you get a bullet how with a bare shaft at 10 yards move to 20 yards and repeat. When done you will be very close with broadhead and field point.

Most of the time when an arrow will not correct when moving things on the bow as you have it’s you. You are torquing the bow.

Now this is just some thought. There are more varibles but these are the fast ones to look at.

Bow set up before starting is important.

**HighwayHunter** · 12-22-2021, 10:09 PM

Originally posted by enewman View Post

To the op. Why are you shooting a 31.5” arrow with a 29” draw. At most cut your arrow to 29” carbon to carbon. Depending on broadhead and rest location you could cut another 1.75” off that.

Next if you are shooting fixed head then get that arrow between 15% to 18%FOC. FOC is for arrow stabilization.

Set that arrow at 13/16. Now nock tune the arrows before any other tuning. Now shoot and see what it looks like. Bare shaft through paper is best. Do this at 10 yards. Shoot several times. If tears are not same everytime it’s you. Do not do bare shaft tuning. If you can repeat the tear atleast 6 times. Then yes tune bare shaft. Do not move rest. Adjust top hats.

When you get a bullet how with a bare shaft at 10 yards move to 20 yards and repeat. When done you will be very close with broadhead and field point.

Most of the time when an arrow will not correct when moving things on the bow as you have it’s you. You are torquing the bow.

Now this is just some thought. There are more varibles but these are the fast ones to look at.

Bow set up before starting is important.

That’s a long way to say practice more so you don’t need to do a complicated tuning process with fail safes lol

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**SRK14** · 12-23-2021, 04:30 AM

Originally posted by enewman View Post

Physics and aeronautics are on our side if we learn what’s going on. When tuning one of the most over looked part of tuning is the center of gravity (FOC) the center of pressure.

When you learn how this works there is no reason a fixed broadhead will not group with a field point. Velocity also comes into this as well.

When you are done you can swop out broadheads. But this type of tuning is not done by most.

I appreciate reading your posts. You seen to be very knowledgeable about the subject. I think we can both agree that “grouping together” can vary from one person to the next. Broadheads are normally longer than field points which would be working to weaken the spine. Blades on the front should in theory have some sort of wind resistance and start to slow down before field points. I do believe that the two can be made to hit together, but is the bow in its optimum tune? I don’t believe that bows were designed and engineered to be shot with one cam advanced, limb bolts adjusted uneven etc etc. but people have a way of toying around with things like that. I personally don’t shoot at deer past 30, so my setup is simple.

**enewman** · 12-23-2021, 12:52 PM

Originally posted by SRK14 View Post

I appreciate reading your posts. You seen to be very knowledgeable about the subject. I think we can both agree that “grouping together” can vary from one person to the next. Broadheads are normally longer than field points which would be working to weaken the spine. Blades on the front should in theory have some sort of wind resistance and start to slow down before field points. I do believe that the two can be made to hit together, but is the bow in its optimum tune? I don’t believe that bows were designed and engineered to be shot with one cam advanced, limb bolts adjusted uneven etc etc. but people have a way of toying around with things like that. I personally don’t shoot at deer past 30, so my setup is simple.

I would agree, but sometimes in the process of building, we have issues. example top limb pulling 3 lbs more. Things like this. same as nock travel. some bows just have it. so taking a cam out of sync can correct this.

but I'm like you. I like things to be correct and square.

**enewman** · 12-23-2021, 12:58 PM

Originally posted by SRK14 View Post

I appreciate reading your posts. You seen to be very knowledgeable about the subject. I think we can both agree that "grouping together" can vary from one person to the next. Broadheads are normally longer than field points which would be working to weaken the spine. Blades on the front should in theory have some sort of wind resistance and start to slow down before field points. I do believe that the two can be made to hit together, but is the bow in its optimum tune? I don't believe that bows were designed and engineered to be shot with one cam advanced, limb bolts adjusted uneven etc etc. but people have a way of toying around with things like that. I personally don't shoot at deer past 30, so my setup is simple.

I agree with the grouping.

A couple of years ago, I was in a post with Tim Gillingham. Tim told me I would not be able to group a fixed broadhead at 100yards. He bet me $1000. I took the bet. I then wrote up the procedure. He backed out. In the procedure, we had to shoot six arrows. By doing this, we could see our groups' size at 100 yards. Then as long as I put the broadhead into that group, I would show him.

He didn't like that procedure. hahahaha.

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Broadhead tuning issues. Rest maxed out

Broadhead tuning issues. Rest maxed out

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