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    #16
    Lol. Okay thanx. I will just contact an arrow smith and go from there. Thanx all.

    Gary

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      #17
      Lot of great arrow suppliers out there. They all will cut to your length and taper both the nock and point end. I would buy some tapered shafts and they will fly pretty close to your carbons. By tapered I mean tapered at nock end for about 10 inches or so with the nock taper ground on.
      125 gr points and almost any arrow will work for you.
      You need to know how long your arrow is from back of the point to the nock throat. A good arrowsmith can help with the right spine based on the type of bow you shoot.
      Check out Raptor Archery or google wood arrow shafts for good companies to order from.
      You can get some nice lightweight softwoods for shoots, port orford cedar, doug fir , spruce all shoot very well.
      Never paid anywhere close to $ 120 /dozen for plain wood shafts. That sounds like a footed shaft price to me.
      Good arrow smith will spine and weight match your shafts and they should be straight if you buy good quality ones.

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        #18
        Here is how to do it, and save some money, without much effort and basically no setup:

        1 Use a spine chart and buy shafts from 3 rivers or nocking point, NOT EBAY.

        2 Can be cut with a hacksaw, probably no investment there

        3 Pencil sharpener type taper tool, a few bucks

        4 100 and 125 grain tips for tuning

        5 Simple wipe on or spray poly

        6 Glue tips,feathers, nocks and such as usual

        7 done

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          #19
          So all you use on wood arrows is light heads?

          Gary

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            #20
            Originally posted by DRT View Post
            So all you use on wood arrows is light heads?

            Gary


            It’s no different than carbons, except with less options. You use the head weight that creates the correct tune. I can’t figure them out. The only time I shoot wood arrows is for 3D, so I don’t care about them all that much, and after many fruitless hrs of trying to tune them, have given up!! I just get one that I think flies halfway decent and go with that. And it shows most of the times in my scores!!!

            Bisch


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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              #21
              Originally posted by DRT View Post
              So all you use on wood arrows is light heads?

              Gary
              Pretty much, wood is heavy. Front loading really came about with carbons. I don't know if Bear razor heads were made in any weights over 125-150, but someone on here can correct me on that i am sure. You could always buy heaver/lighter tips if you wanted, but 125ish seems about the standard to me

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                #22
                Interesting.

                Gary

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                  #23
                  I would suggest talking to Jeffro at 10 Again Arrows. He can not only suggest actual spine, length, and point weight that will work, but will make closely matched arrows that will shoot like you want them to in tournaments. They ain't cheap, but if you just use them at TBOT shoots, they will cost a lot less than the gas you burn going to very many shoots.
                  Larger places like 3-Rivers (I love them) just can't produce as precise a product as Jeff can.

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                    #24
                    He was at Cowtown last year so I'll see him there if he comes again.

                    Gary

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                      #25
                      If you'll get your shafts from someone who makes finished arrows you will find better products to choose from. They will weigh and spine each shaft so they match.
                      Wapiti Archery has pre finished shafts for sale you can fletch and install points yourself.They also sell test kits of finished arrows or shafts.

                      We shoot only 125 gr fixed blade broadheads on our wooden shafts. I shoot footed shafts and the spouse shoots Spruce or doug fir. The 125 gr heads have taken bull elk, bull moose, deer and antelope. Most with a complete pass through.
                      Cedar are easiest to determine if they are cracked due to smell, doug fir and spruce seem to be more durable for us. My footed shafts are bombproof it seems.

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                        #26
                        Broadheads aren't a concern. I will want to buy finished shafts and I can refletch down the road as needed.

                        Gary

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by DRT View Post
                          Broadheads aren't a concern. I will want to buy finished shafts and I can refletch down the road as needed.

                          Gary


                          You probably won’t have to worry about trying to reflect them (which is a PITA, btw)! They’ll most likely be broken before they need to be refletched!!! [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]

                          Bisch


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                            #28
                            Oh sh1t![emoji15]

                            Gary

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                              #29
                              Gary, you have a PM.

                              Rick

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by RickBarbee View Post
                                Gary, you have a PM.

                                Rick
                                Replied

                                Gary

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