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Old 10-13-2018, 08:59 AM   #1
txfireguy2003
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Default Is it my string stop?

Carbon Icon, can't get it tuned to save my life. Groups are just okay with field points, but throw a broadhead into the mix and it's anybody's guess. For the sake of full disclosure, I should come clean and admit that I allowed myself to get rusty with ther bow over the last few years. Since leaving my bow only lease and getting on one that allows rifles, I've hunted with a bow 3-4 weekends a year, then switched to guns. That said, I haven't had this much trouble since I started shooting bows 13 years ago. Not long ago, with a previous bow, i was slinging carbon into the heart of a 3d buck target at 70yards with about 90-95% hits, the remainder were in the lungs.....

Okay, now that's outta the way, this Icon won't tune. I had new strings installed and even the tech said he struggled to get it paper tuned. So, after fussing with it, ther only thing I can conver up with is the string stop, here's why I'm doubting it. The string doesn't line up on it centered, it's close, but there's a groove, and it clearly isn't in that groove. So I'm wondering it if is causing inconsistent string travel. Also, on my Black Ice (God I wish I'd never sold that bow), I added an aftermarket stop and set it up with the string actually touching the stop at rest, this one has a small gap.

Do you think adjusting my stop might help me get this rig shooting consistently? Thanks in advance.

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Old 10-13-2018, 09:18 AM   #2
Razorback01
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I would guess the stop isn't the main issue. My Elite has an adjustable stop, and the below is on the Bowtech website for a Carbon Icon- https://bowtecharchery.com/bows/carbon-icon/


To increase the effectiveness
of your string stop dampener
you want it to maintain
contact with the string at
rest. If you have backed
down the draw weight
to set your draw to your
comfort level you may need
to adjust your string stop as
your brace height may
have increased. To do
this, loosen the side set screw on the riser as shown (Figure 3)
with a 1/8 hex wrench. Pull out the string stop until it makes
contact again with the string. Verify that the string stop is
oriented correctly and retighten the side set screw.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:43 AM   #3
critter69
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Have you checked cam timing, and cam lean ? Your arrows the correct spine ?
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by critter69 View Post
Have you checked cam timing, and cam lean ?
This is what I suspect. If the string isn't tracking straight it means the cams are off. And if they are off at rest, the lean is often exacerbated at full draw.
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Old 10-13-2018, 09:56 AM   #5
txfireguy2003
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Yes, cams are in time and do not appear to show any lean.

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Old 10-13-2018, 10:14 AM   #6
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Are both the cables inside the marks and both stops hitting at the same time? With new strings recently I still suspect one cable is twisted too much pulling the cam and string over. Without yokes to tune with on binary cams we are a little more limited but can still tune with the cables and/or shims.
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Old 10-13-2018, 10:18 AM   #7
txfireguy2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickbowcoop View Post
Are both the cables inside the marks and both stops hitting at the same time? With new strings recently I still suspect one cable is twisted too much pulling the cam and string over. Without yokes to tune with on binary cams we are a little more limited but can still tune with the cables and/or shims.
Yeah, both cables inside the marks, even with same alignment, not one closer to ome end of the range and the other centered or closer to the other end. That was the first thing I checked.

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Old 10-13-2018, 11:02 AM   #8
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You want some gap at rest. 1/16” or so

I bet something else is issue
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Old 10-13-2018, 11:48 AM   #9
txfireguy2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Fence View Post
You want some gap at rest. 1/16” or so

I bet something else is issue
Not according to Bowtech.....

So I adjusted it until it lines up centered and just touches the string. Not sure if it really helped tuning because it's so windy, but it sure made the bow quieter by a long shot!

The only other thing i can think of is string stretch, my peep is still rotating ever so slightly about every 10-15 shots.

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Old 10-13-2018, 12:50 PM   #10
enewman
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Ok. Your not saying what’s going on. Take a bare shaft. Stand 5 to 8 ft from it. Shoot the shaft through paper. What does the tear look like. This will get you started.
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Old 10-13-2018, 01:00 PM   #11
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just some information.

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtVqxLy9AZcGigpQxMGIYrb8x7P5
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Old 10-13-2018, 02:44 PM   #12
txfireguy2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enewman View Post
Ok. Your not saying what’s going on. Take a bare shaft. Stand 5 to 8 ft from it. Shoot the shaft through paper. What does the tear look like. This will get you started.
Well that's not possible, I'm at the deer lease this weekend and it's 20mph winds.

Essentially, my broadheads refuse to hit with my field points. They'll be an inch low and 3 inches left. Make an adjustment and get them hitting closer and 5 shots later broadheads will be high and right without making another change. If Hoffy's wad open tomorrow I'd drop it off with Aaron but I don't think they are.

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Old 10-13-2018, 02:53 PM   #13
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Just wondering: what string did you go with? PM if you want
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Old 10-13-2018, 02:55 PM   #14
txfireguy2003
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It's been a while and i've slept, but i want to say it was Winners Choice.

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Old 10-13-2018, 03:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txfireguy2003 View Post
Yeah, both cables inside the marks, even with same alignment, not one closer to ome end of the range and the other centered or closer to the other end. That was the first thing I checked.

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How about the stops at full draw? Are they hitting at the same time? In time and in synch are not the same thing. It could also just be a spine or rest tuning issue. I just know from tuning some Bowtechs these are things I had to get right before I could bareshaft tune properly.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:22 PM   #16
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When you get a chance YOU shoot it through paper... fletched and see what you get. I don’t believe in “100% tune for the shooter”, but there is a grey area where pro shop and owner can achieve good shooting. Could be one or the other with a form issue ( tech could be way out of his element with draw length, ect) or owner ... might be as you said “rusty”
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:47 PM   #17
txfireguy2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stickbowcoop View Post
How about the stops at full draw? Are they hitting at the same time? In time and in synch are not the same thing. It could also just be a spine or rest tuning issue. I just know from tuning some Bowtechs these are things I had to get right before I could bareshaft tune properly.
The Icon has only one stop, but if it helps, the other cam stops turning when the one stop hits the limb.

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Old 10-13-2018, 03:49 PM   #18
txfireguy2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Fence View Post
When you get a chance YOU shoot it through paper... fletched and see what you get. I don’t believe in “100% tune for the shooter”, but there is a grey area where pro shop and owner can achieve good shooting. Could be one or the other with a form issue ( tech could be way out of his element with draw length, ect) or owner ... might be as you said “rusty”
Yeah, that's the plan i guess, just though to find the time.

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Old 10-13-2018, 04:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txfireguy2003 View Post
The Icon has only one stop, but if it helps, the other cam stops turning when the one stop hits the limb.

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Correct. That’s how a binary cam works. It’s impossible to get out of sync. It can get out of tune and out of being efficient but cam timing with a binary isn’t an issue

Note: 2 track binary. Overdrive can get out of sync
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