Archery Shop Tech Says Its Good

[critter69]

What weight, draw length, size shafts, shaft length, and head weight you using ? List them and it may help a little trying to diagnose this with out being able see it.

[60 Deluxe]

Tighten up your cables to pull the ATA into spec. Then check your cam timing. You may have to add a twist on one end and take a twist out on the other end to keep ATA correct. It is a trial and error process. I'm not sure if you have a one or two cam bow. Single cam bows should have a timing hole or some other method to use to ascertain that the cam is in time at rest. A dual cam may or may not have timing holes. Draw the bow and check that both string stops land at the same instant. That tells you that the cams are in sync.

Next, set your rest for center shot and height. Arrow should bisect the Berger hole. Adjust your nocking loop up or down to get a ninety degree angle between the string and the arrow at rest. Then install the sight with the pins centered with the rest. Start shooting and adjusting the sight for windage. Once you hitting the center of the target, start adjusting for elevation and setting pin gaps for known yardage.

Then, if you are of the mind to do so, paper tune the bow. I have beaten myself up for hours paper tuning. Sometimes it is just easier to adjust your bow with the arrows that you intend to use. I.E. tune it to your broadheads for hunting season then tweak the tune for field points after the freezer is full. This is a good excuse to own two bows. One for practice and one for hunting. Then you don't have to deal with the frustration of trying to get field points and broadheads to impact in the same spot.

[BBReezen]

Draw cycle cam lean probably yes. My bow had cam lean bad at rest.

[BTLowry]

To me, the fact that a shop would have a tech working for them that would let something like that out the door speaks of their attention to detail.

IF that was the only way to tune the bow they should have told you there was something wrong that needed to be addressed.

You need a different shop with either a more knowledgeable tech or a tech that takes pride in what he is sending out the door

[MnM]

I started gathering my own archery tools because my closest tech was 30 minutes away and usually open on days that I had to work. Got a lot of info from John Dudley and Josh Bowmar via YouTube. Also got help from some really good folks on this site (Muddyfuzzy and a few others). Took me a little over a month to get mine shooting bullet bareshaft holes, working on it part time. Hopefully won’t take as long next time. Learned a lot.

[Briar Friar]

That’s not much off that mark and 100% is not making any impact on your tuning problem. In order to ensure everything is where it needs to be, you need to measure ATA, BH, DL, and DW.

Backing the limb bolts out will not solve the problem. ATA is made by the tension on the cables and string. Those have to be adjusted, not your limbs. But 1/16” is not out of whack. As long as everything else measures out, it’s fine. As I mentioned, you need yoke tuned or cams shimmed. That will solve your problem.

Word.

Thanks for the guidance.

[aguinn84]

Second recommendation for Hoffy's. Aaron and Jason are great.

[sierracharlie338]

As some one who used to work in a box store as a bow tech, not all techs are created equal. Some of them (us) cared about putting out a good product and fixing the issues while other did the minimum to get by. This goes for any type of job but especially in the big retail box stores. Employee turn over is crazy.

That is a long way of saying go to a reputable shop and have someone take a second look.

[Briar Friar]

What weight, draw length, size shafts, shaft length, and head weight you using ? List them and it may help a little trying to diagnose this with out being able see it.

Draw weight: supposed to be 68-70 lbs ( 70 lb max)
My DL actual is 31.5-32”
Bow DL is 31”...I shoot a Scotts trigger release and its adjusted to make up difference
Shafts: Beman ICS Hunter 300 31”
Shaft diameter: 5/16”
Aluminum inserts
100 gn heads
Total arrow weight: 445gn (100gn heads) / 470 (125 gn heads)
Speed (been a while) : 307 fps (100gn heads) / 297 fps (125gn heads)

Per Bemans spine chart...I should be able to shoot both 100 or 125 grain heads with my desired poundage.

Last time I/we(tech) checked the DW was 71-72 lbs. Im not sure where it stands now. Backwall seems solid and cables are within timing marks on both cams.

[JB_Archery]

Tighten up your cables to pull the ATA into spec. Then check your cam timing. You may have to add a twist on one end and take a twist out on the other end to keep ATA correct. It is a trial and error process. I'm not sure if you have a one or two cam bow. Single cam bows should have a timing hole or some other method to use to ascertain that the cam is in time at rest. A dual cam may or may not have timing holes. Draw the bow and check that both string stops land at the same instant. That tells you that the cams are in sync.

Next, set your rest for center shot and height. Arrow should bisect the Berger hole. Adjust your nocking loop up or down to get a ninety degree angle between the string and the arrow at rest. Then install the sight with the pins centered with the rest. Start shooting and adjusting the sight for windage. Once you hitting the center of the target, start adjusting for elevation and setting pin gaps for known yardage.

Then, if you are of the mind to do so, paper tune the bow. I have beaten myself up for hours paper tuning. Sometimes it is just easier to adjust your bow with the arrows that you intend to use. I.E. tune it to your broadheads for hunting season then tweak the tune for field points after the freezer is full. This is a good excuse to own two bows. One for practice and one for hunting. Then you don't have to deal with the frustration of trying to get field points and broadheads to impact in the same spot.

This is pretty spot on... cables need to be tightened which will bring the ATA in also should put DW in spec which I would imagine is off a few pounds.

Once you do all of this and you still have issues you may have some torque flaws you need to adjust. A reputable bow shop should get you taken care of on all of this.

[uplandlefty]

Get a second opinion from a reputable archery shop.

Agreed. Also, every arrow/broadhead tunes and flies differently. If it works for you then it is perfectly fine. Ranch Fairy would probably agree with this statement. Lol

[Low Fence]

Agreed. Also, every arrow/broadhead tunes and flies differently. If it works for you then it is perfectly fine. Ranch Fairy would probably agree with this statement. Lol

And he would be wrong again. Lol A tuned bow will be more effective than any band aid arrow. And will shoot multiple arrow combinations.

I hope you get the issue fixed. There could be lots of variations that could cause what issue your having. But that far out means something isnt correct

[rocky]

Looks to be a left handed bow. If the “tech” is right handed, it would be hard for him to shoot a good paper tear. I’ve tuned a bunch of bows, but I will never state that I can papertune a left handed bow properly. BTW, if it appears wrong, or way off of center, it is. Something is wrong.

[rocky]

Looks to be a left handed bow. If the “tech” is right handed, it would be hard for him to shoot a good paper tear. I’ve tuned a bunch of bows, but I will never state that I can papertune a left handed bow properly. BTW, if it appears wrong, or way off of center, it is. Something is wrong.

[Briar Friar]

My bow and I have an appointment with a TBHing Archery Guru. Im stoked.

Low Fence...I agree....however Ive killed with bow with worse tunes...when I didnt know better. Im confident I could kill with the bow setup as-is but there is some energy loss with the off center setup.

Rocky... makes sense. I saw on youtube where one tech discussed that the shooter should be the one paper tuning due to all the personal variations of form which affect bow performance/reaction and subsequently arrow flight and paper tears.

Its funny to me that I dont worry about centershot on my longbows or recurves but fret about it on my compound. Eso si que es.

Thanks again everybody for the suggestions and guidance. Yall have a great day.