Originally posted by BrianL
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
How can I rid 2 acres of stickers in grass?
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by quarterback View PostWhere can you even get MSMA any more? I thought it was outlawed.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Comment
-
There’s no “one and done Easy Button” for stickers. You’ve got to work a multi-level attack plan for several years to get rid of them. Herbicidal sprays that kill the plant will also kill the desirable grass growing right there with it. If you’ve got small patches here and there, that’s still a good option, just spot-treat and let the turf grass grow back in, but if you’ve got big areas covered in it, it’s not worth it to nuke big areas of grass. Next you have to consider the sticker itself. That’s a seed. Every time one of those matures and falls to the ground, another sticker clump is gonna grow, BUT, that seed can lay dormant for years before it sprouts. So when you look at an actively growing sticker patch, you’re not only fighting the plants you can see, you’ve got to fight the generations of seeds that are already in the ground. That’s where pre-emergent herbicides come in. They kill seeds as they sprout, to keep the plant from growing. Pre-emergents need to be re-applied seasonally, and your County Extension Office website should have a good schedule for this. Lastly, you’ve got to address the stickers you’ve got growing above-ground right now. A frequent mowing schedule goes a long way towards keeping the actively-growing sticker plants from producing seeds, but if you’ve got mature sticker seed heads right now, don’t mow without bagging the cuttings, otherwise you’re just distributing your future sticker patch. The size of the sticker patch will dictate the feasibility of this last idea, but you’ve got to collect and remove as much of those stickers as you can, so dragging a burlap sack or a big piece of any kind of cloth through the area to collect the stickers before you mow will go a long way towards fighting your future generations of stickers.
Comment
-
Get a soil sample.
The ph should be 6.0 or higher. If not, get some lime on it now.
Then - if this is a lawn and there are no grazing livestock, get Image or anything as a preemergent that is rated for sandburs. Put it out in December or January. Keep up with these protocols. Do not mow sandburs but if you see a stand developing, hit it with roundup.
IF this is an area with any grazing livestock - do not use MSMA, Image, or anything not rated for pasture use. It contains herbicide that will build up in the grazers kidneys and liver and will eventually kill them.
I have a 20 acre pasture that the sandburs lashed out with a vengeance this year. I missed my spraying after my first cutting and that's the window they took. Bayer Crop Sciences came out with a new herbicide called Rizalon. It is not dependent on soil contact like Prowl but like Prowl requires more than .25" of rain within 30 days to push it to the seed bed. Rizalon also has dramatically reduced emergence after the first cutting when only sprayed in January.
My protocol this year will be lime now, shred in January a few days before spraying Rizalon with 16 oz of roundup per acre, cut in June, spray 11 oz of roundup within a week, spray Rizalon in August. I only need one cutting for now but if I need or can get a second cutting I'll hit it with Rizalon after it.
Comment
-
Originally posted by bakin7005 View PostIt's not called MSMA any more I don't think. It's marketed under the name Target 6. Only online and the smallest container I could find was 2 gallon. It does have to be applied in 85° + temps.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Comment
-
-
Burning worked great for me. I burned in let February. Sounded like popcorn. Second year they weren’t bad but still had a few. Burned again the next February and never saw another one in 8 years.
You need to let your grass have a little height when it goes dormant so their is some fuel to generate heat.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Comment
Comment