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Old 09-24-2018, 07:25 PM   #1
MIHunter
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Default Favorite Broadhead

Looking for a new broadhead to shoot out of my new Sarrels Yukon
Recommendations?
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Old 09-24-2018, 07:31 PM   #2
Bisch
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I use German Kinetic as my main broadheads. I also use Magnus Stingers, Eclipse Werewolf, and Wasp Traditional heads, and they all work great.

Bisch


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Old 09-24-2018, 09:15 PM   #3
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Just got some 200 grain Grizzly’s this year. Haven’t shot anything with them yet, but if they’re as good as the 125’s they should be great!


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Old 09-24-2018, 09:27 PM   #4
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Montec
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:49 PM   #5
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Rage.

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Old 09-25-2018, 09:57 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
Rage.

Gary
SMH! Since you didn't really learn anything from your recent posts on another traditional bowhunting site about the very same topic... I will go ahead and summarize a response for anybody who might be looking at this thread/post and will take this seriously.

Mechanicals are definitely not recommended for trad bows or by anybody with a decent amount of experience hunting with trad bows.

yes, we live in a free country and you are free to do whatever you want. I know you have strong opinions apparently about the use of rage with a trad bow since you won't let it go... but...

The use of a fixed blade head is critically important for more reasons that just energy, etc when dealing with trad bows.

If you want a wide cut head, give Simmons Tiger Sharks a go. This is my current head and I am really liking the performance in the last year with them.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:16 AM   #7
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Do you know what weight you need? Some people pick the head they want to use and tune the arrow back from there. I did it the other way around - I tuned to use a 150 grain head (145 field point w/a 5gr washer) then started experimenting with broad heads of that weight. As far as two blade heads I am using the Grizzly Samurai single bevels. In a 3 blade I have had success with the Woodsman Elite and the VPA.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerp View Post
Do you know what weight you need? Some people pick the head they want to use and tune the arrow back from there. I did it the other way around - I tuned to use a 150 grain head (145 field point w/a 5gr washer) then started experimenting with broad heads of that weight. As far as two blade heads I am using the Grizzly Samurai single bevels. In a 3 blade I have had success with the Woodsman Elite and the VPA.
That is a great point! I was completely lost the first time I started out... and ended up thinking 150gr would be what I would tune to... turned out 175 was better and started looking there. Been sitting on 175gr through 2 bows and that weight kind of set the standard. you can use adapter weights or insert weights too... but I am now particular to a certain head weight... and primarily at heads that use a lot of that weight to back the blade. (ie beefier blades)
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:11 AM   #9
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I found the top hats screwed on to wood shafts to be a good thing,, I top that with the magnus stinger,,,, the stinger is my go to head for everything because they work 100% of the time and they are true package to package
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampRabbit View Post
SMH! Since you didn't really learn anything from your recent posts on another traditional bowhunting site about the very same topic... I will go ahead and summarize a response for anybody who might be looking at this thread/post and will take this seriously.

Mechanicals are definitely not recommended for trad bows or by anybody with a decent amount of experience hunting with trad bows.

yes, we live in a free country and you are free to do whatever you want. I know you have strong opinions apparently about the use of rage with a trad bow since you won't let it go... but...

The use of a fixed blade head is critically important for more reasons that just energy, etc when dealing with trad bows.

If you want a wide cut head, give Simmons Tiger Sharks a go. This is my current head and I am really liking the performance in the last year with them.
What I've learned is three pigs don't know they aren't supposed to work. What I've learned is that if I don't try I won't know for sure. I love the wide cut. If you don't want to use them that's your business. If it's not your idea of traditional then that's your hang up.
Right now I'm trying some 150 grain, 1.5" fixed blade heads that seem promising. The pig I killed with Sacagawea was with one of them. If they turn out well the I would go that route. But the Woodsman heads have not given me a good blood trail yet. The Grizzlies are a solid head but not wide enough and too expensive.
I'm sorry the elitist attitude doesn't like someone who thinks outside the box. But that is who I am.

Gary
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:27 PM   #11
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Right now I'm really liking the Grizzly Bruins. I'm shooting the 200 grains. With that said, I have NOT shot an animal with them yet but they fly awesome out of my bow and I can get them sharp pretty easy. I have no doubt they'll work if I do my part.
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:40 PM   #12
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I've pretty much come to the conclusion that brand of broadheads doesn't really matter, as long as they are sharp and are well tuned to your bow.
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
What I've learned is three pigs don't know they aren't supposed to work. What I've learned is that if I don't try I won't know for sure. I love the wide cut. If you don't want to use them that's your business. If it's not your idea of traditional then that's your hang up.
Right now I'm trying some 150 grain, 1.5" fixed blade heads that seem promising. The pig I killed with Sacagawea was with one of them. If they turn out well the I would go that route. But the Woodsman heads have not given me a good blood trail yet. The Grizzlies are a solid head but not wide enough and too expensive.
I'm sorry the elitist attitude doesn't like someone who thinks outside the box. But that is who I am.

Gary
Gary,

Do you understand WHY mechanicals are not a good idea for a for a finger released, non center shot, off the shelf, low KE setup?

This has nothing absolutely to do with being "traditional" or and "elitist." And your sample size of success doesn't outweigh the overarching principles that suggest mechanicals don't have a place in a wide range of setups that are commonly labeled as traditional.

Do you think people just rain down on you because they just absolutely hate rage? I run nocturnals... by rage... nothing against the company... nothing against mechanicals either... but their application in a wide form of setups that we often call "traditional" isn't a good recipe for the higher margins we need in our equipment.

Nobody is being an elitist here... And nobody says trying something isn't a good idea... I mean, some of us tried a nice little plastic broadhead once knowing darned well that it wasn't likely to pan out. Did it kill something once... yeah... but...

And you can call it "thinking outside the box" all you want... but what you are doing isn't "innovative"... and even if it was... it is irresponsible to hype up innovation without solid proof that it works for a wide variety of applicatons/setups.

An elitist I am not. But just about everybody on here knows that I am an engineer that analyzes a lot of data in order to make some informed decisions and I don't take giving advice to folks lightly... So yeah, it bugs me when bad advice is given. It is who I am....
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:59 PM   #14
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Right this second my favorite is Magnus Stingers. Next week it will be slick tricks and the week after something different.

A quality head with hair popping sharp blades is the key to success for me.
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwampRabbit View Post
Gary,

Do you understand WHY mechanicals are not a good idea for a for a finger released, non center shot, off the shelf, low KE setup?

This has nothing absolutely to do with being "traditional" or and "elitist." And your sample size of success doesn't outweigh the overarching principles that suggest mechanicals don't have a place in a wide range of setups that are commonly labeled as traditional.

Do you think people just rain down on you because they just absolutely hate rage? I run nocturnals... by rage... nothing against the company... nothing against mechanicals either... but their application in a wide form of setups that we often call "traditional" isn't a good recipe for the higher margins we need in our equipment.

Nobody is being an elitist here... And nobody says trying something isn't a good idea... I mean, some of us tried a nice little plastic broadhead once knowing darned well that it wasn't likely to pan out. Did it kill something once... yeah... but...

And you can call it "thinking outside the box" all you want... but what you are doing isn't "innovative"... and even if it was... it is irresponsible to hype up innovation without solid proof that it works for a wide variety of applicatons/setups.

An elitist I am not. But just about everybody on here knows that I am an engineer that analyzes a lot of data in order to make some informed decisions and I don't take giving advice to folks lightly... So yeah, it bugs me when bad advice is given. It is who I am....
I think he was just kidding about using Rage broadheads.....
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I think he was just kidding about using Rage broadheads.....
If only....

He is serious.

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Old 09-25-2018, 01:21 PM   #17
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If I were shooting a 35 or 40lb bow I wouldn't. But at over 200fps I think it's worth trying. Sorry you don't agree.
Like I said. When I find a decent, affordable, wide cut head that flies well I will use it. But if the Hypodermic works why are you so against it being used?

Gary
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
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If I were shooting a 35 or 40lb bow I wouldn't. But at over 200fps I think it's worth trying. Sorry you don't agree.
Like I said. When I find a decent, affordable, wide cut head that flies well I will use it. But if the Hypodermic works why are you so against it being used?

Gary
But you didn't ask the OP what poundage he/she was going to buy in their new Yukon to know. In fact, have you shot a Yukon? When asked for a recommendation for their new Yukon, your reply was "rage."

Again, I don't care what you use... but you just delved out advice/recommendation to use a rage broadhead on a bow you have never shot or tuned out of. And you are promoting a head that plenty of folks have tried out of stick bows along the way and have had less than desirable results.

I guess I take advice-giving kind of seriously when it comes to traditional bowhunting. As you well know... it is not easy... can be expensive... and frustrating. It can be a lot easier if people are given, and they take, solid advice from folks in our small community.
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:03 PM   #19
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Personally, I like 300-grain single-bevel Tuffheads (225-gr. head, plus 75-gr. adapter). Worked well on a big hog -- good blood, short track. Some smaller ones had sparser blood trails, leading me to order some 3-blade VPA (also 300-grain) to try on future hogs, strictly for the blood-trail aspect.

Will stick with Tuffheads for deer.

As far as the Rages Gary is advocating, I can attest to watching him make a short (under 10-yard) shot right behind the front shoulder on a running 125-lb hog that resulted in buckets of blood pouring from a massive 2-inch wound and less than 25-yard track to doornail dead. Now, he's shooting -- I think -- about a 60-lb bow. So, such an arrow/broadhead combo may not work for everyone. As he mentioned, he's getting fast arrow flight from that set-up.

In other words, different things may work better or worse depending on individual equipment, animals being hunted, and even situations anticipated on a given hunt. A spot-and-stalk hunt for spooky hogs, where shots might be close and quick, with a premium placed on blood-trailing, a wider-cutting head could be useful. Hunting a fixed feeder set-up with a given expected range for whitetails may call for a completely different type of head.
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:09 PM   #20
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I think I just realized the problem in our little discussion here.

Some of us are responding to the thread title: "Favorite Broadhead"

Others are directing answers toward OP's request for a recommendation for a Yukon.

I must confess to telling what I like and why. To answer the OP's question about a Sarrels Yukon may require more information, anyway, such as at least draw weight.
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerp View Post
Do you know what weight you need? Some people pick the head they want to use and tune the arrow back from there. I did it the other way around - I tuned to use a 150 grain head (145 field point w/a 5gr washer) then started experimenting with broad heads of that weight. As far as two blade heads I am using the Grizzly Samurai single bevels. In a 3 blade I have had success with the Woodsman Elite and the VPA.
Looking at 175 gr.

Shooting 50lbs.

Thanks

Last edited by MIHunter; 09-25-2018 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:10 PM   #22
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He asked for a person's favorite head. That's mine. And TT I've taken two since that one. All under 100lbs. All at less than 20 yards. One about 12 the third at 15ish.
SR the elitist attitude shows when you try to tell someone that their knowledge, experience and opinion means nothing and it has to be as you say.
I'll admit I'm that way on some things.
The reality is I don't post kills on here with those heads because of folks like you.
It may be that over time and experience I determine I like a fixed head better.
Just food for thought, other people kill deer with Rage heads out of trad bows. Happens all the time. But those guys don't talk about it because of this. They just enjoy the venison.


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Old 09-25-2018, 03:10 PM   #23
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And right now I used 60 grains of insert weights to get the 160 I need up front.

Gary
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIHunter View Post
Looking at 175 gr.

Shooting 50lbs.

Thanks
My rig is 50lbs @28" and I have had great success with 175 gr Zwickey No Mercy broadheads. This year I'm trying 175 gr VPA's. Like said above, as long as you can get them razor sharp and put them in the vitals, most any broadhead will do the job. Good Luck this year!!
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Old 09-25-2018, 05:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip Fields View Post
I've pretty much come to the conclusion that brand of broadheads doesn't really matter, as long as they are sharp and are well tuned to your bow.
I agree with Phillip!
That’s all I’m gonna say...................
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Old 09-25-2018, 05:47 PM   #26
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125 grain muzzy nothing has run away yet shooting Black Widow 52# 28"draw
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Old 09-25-2018, 05:56 PM   #27
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Iron Will Outfitters.
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
He asked for a person's favorite head.
he asked for a recommendation for his Yukon longbow.

Quote:
SR the elitist attitude shows when you try to tell someone that their knowledge, experience and opinion means nothing and it has to be as you say.
I own a dictionary. But this is going to be about perspective. You think I am being a snob about a piece of equipment... I think you are being irresponsible recommending a piece of equipment that wasn't designed with "traditional" uses in mind.

Quote:
The reality is I don't post kills on here with those heads because of folks like you.
Folks like me?
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:14 PM   #29
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Ok I can’t leave it there..
MIHunter, to better answer your question we will need a few more details. What poundage are you shooting and at what draw length? Are you shooting woods or carbon ect....

On the “rage” issue.. by definition an eletist is someone that is considered superior by others or themselves as in intellect, talent, power, wealth, or position in society.
In that respect I know Scott doesn’t consider hisself an eletist but by definition I do. He is my superior in MANY ways by the definition alone!!
I would also venture to say without hesitation that he is many others superior in the Trad community. in his short time in his journey he has already successfully reached a level that some will never achieve in accuracy, kills, ethics , ect,ect, blah blah blah.......

And I’ll never agree that shooting a rage out of Trad equipment is a good idea. The negatives simply out weighs the positives.

Last edited by Randy Madden; 09-25-2018 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:26 PM   #30
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I haven't seen the negative yet.
If one is going off of just what they're told by another and never takes the opportunity to try it themselves then they don't know.
I have seen no science produced by anyone here that shows they don't work. Rage says they need 40lbs of kinetic energy to work.
Charts show my set up produces more than that.
That is enough real information to make me give it a real effort.

Gary
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:49 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRT View Post
I haven't seen the negative yet.
If one is going off of just what they're told by another and never takes the opportunity to try it themselves then they don't know.
I have seen no science produced by anyone here that shows they don't work. Rage says they need 40lbs of kinetic energy to work.
Charts show my set up produces more than that.
That is enough real information to make me give it a real effort.

Gary
Are you shooting the 40KE's? The 1.5'' cut? I used to shoot Rages in my compound days and I was thinking the originals needed a bit more than that to reliably work. Either way, please be careful using them Gary. I don't have first hand experience using them in a trad bow but I'd hate for you to lose a deer because of them. In a compound I loved them but no way I'd try it with my trad bows.
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Old 09-25-2018, 07:05 PM   #32
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I have tried all these this year. They all shot great. The Bone broadheads (red ones) fly the best out to 65 yards. For the record I use these on a 700gr arrow through my compound. I have bare shaft tuned, walked back, etc and the broadheads hit with the FP without issue.

Bone, Aboyer, Cutthroat, Monarch (no longer made) all at 200gr

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Old 09-25-2018, 07:05 PM   #33
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Gary, I personally have never shot them. I am basing my assessment of them based on my brother in laws use of them. I have seen then give amazing gaping holes with awesome blood trails but I have also seen them fail due to whatever reason. The failures have exceeded the successes especially in Trad equipment from what I’ve seen. That’s why I choose not to even try them.
I have never had a good sharp 2 or 3 blade fail me yet! Unless I make a bad shot. which I’ll admit inevitably happens from time to time
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Old 09-25-2018, 07:16 PM   #34
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4 blade 115g muzzys . Can’t find them anymore.


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Old 09-25-2018, 07:35 PM   #35
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I have tried lots of different broadheads over the years and concluded that I like the Simmons Sharks the best. I use the 175 gr Tigersharks and 205 gr Safaris. Although I would definitely recommend the VPA 3 blade heads.
With that being said there’s no way I’d try or recommend a Rage with traditional gear. They do make big holes but even out of a fast compound they just don’t penetrate as well as I would like. I’ve seen (I’ve killed a few animals with them as well) quite a few animals killed with them but rarely did they pass throughs.
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Old 09-25-2018, 07:49 PM   #36
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Magnus. I just sent 5 back that had all killed several animals each. Hard to beat when they just send you new ones. Really good warranty.
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:48 PM   #37
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Magnus. I just sent 5 back that had all killed several animals each. Hard to beat when they just send you new ones. Really good warranty.
I don't want to change anything this close to season, but I may very well switch to 150 grain stingers with 50 grain weights in my GT's for next year. Hear lots of good things.
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:21 PM   #38
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MIHunter, lots of good tips to get ya pointed in the right direction! Obviously a lot of “extras” to go along with it that you prob weren’t counting on! Take from it what you deem as helpful, and write off what you find won’t benefit you in your journey. I guess I will put in my .01 on the “Great Rage Debate”... Gary, I’ve never met you, and for sure have no axe to grind with you. But, as for ME, there is no way I would shoot an expandable broadhead out of a Trad bow. Kind of like Randy said, the negatives waaaaaayyy outweigh the positives, from what I can tell. The bottom line is, IT DOES take additional energy to penetrate with an expandable to the SAME depth a COC broadhead would in a living critter. There is no debate about that. There is energy used up/expended deploying the blades and pushing through a wider set of blades. A long time ago I did a test on some 1/4” leather that I had soaked for awhile in water. I stretched it moderately tight between a board frame, and nailed it down. Now, I didn’t use a scale so you’ll just have to trust me, but, the difference in force it took to push an arrow with a SHARP expandable through till the broad head cleared the leather vs. pushing an arrow through with a SHARP 2-blade, was amazing to say the least! It almost felt like the arrow would break on the expandable, whereas the 2-blade I felt like I could have gripped the arrow with two fingers covered in Vaseline and still pushed it through EASY! I realize this is not very scientific, but at the same time, amount of force exerted on an arrow to push said broadhead through the same substance is still force. Yeah, I know it “ain’t the same as shooting it out of a bow”, but I can guarantee you, shoot the exact same arrows out of a bow (any bow) and the COC will out-penetrate the expandable every time. Cuz ideally WE ALL WANT an entrance AND an exit, if for no other reason than a better blood trail. Now before words get shoved in my mouth, will a COC always have a pass-through? Heck no! But ALL THINGS BEING EQUAL, it will pass through an animal with WAAAYY more frequency than expandable. This is the good ol USA Gary, so shoot what you want, but also understand that a lot of us may not be “on your team” so to speak. Not that you were asking us to be, I know! It’s not a question so much “will it kill?” Heck yeah Rages will! But, I’ve also killed a pig (wouldn’t do it on a deer, so y’all calm down!) with a field point when I was stumpin one time, and that’s all I had! Two holes in the lungs=dead critter! I work on stuff, mechanic, fabricate, and general jack of all trades, master of none... And the thing I will ALWAYS try my dead level best to do is use the best tool for the job at hand. Yeah, you can use a crescent, but a 3/4” is what actually fits. I have a lot more pros/cons, but have already blabbed on enough! Wish you all the luck, and hope you kill a truckload of critters with the Rages this fall Gary! But, until a better tool comes along, I’ll just stick with my “3/4” wrench”. Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:25 PM   #39
Featherflinger
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Originally Posted by CRM_95 View Post
I don't want to change anything this close to season, but I may very well switch to 150 grain stingers with 50 grain weights in my GT's for next year. Hear lots of good things.
Make sure you use the 4 blades. I never got very good blood trails with the 2 blades but had a lot better result with the 4 blade ones.
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:45 PM   #40
MIHunter
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Ok I can’t leave it there..
MIHunter, to better answer your question we will need a few more details. What poundage are you shooting and at what draw length? Are you shooting woods or carbon ect....

On the “rage” issue.. by definition an eletist is someone that is considered superior by others or themselves as in intellect, talent, power, wealth, or position in society.
In that respect I know Scott doesn’t consider hisself an eletist but by definition I do. He is my superior in MANY ways by the definition alone!!
I would also venture to say without hesitation that he is many others superior in the Trad community. in his short time in his journey he has already successfully reached a level that some will never achieve in accuracy, kills, ethics , ect,ect, blah blah blah.......

And I’ll never agree that shooting a rage out of Trad equipment is a good idea. The negatives simply out weighs the positives.
Already answered in post 21. Didn't mean to start anything, just asking what broad heads you all like to shoot traditional style (since this is a trad category).

I just picked up a Sarrels Yukon longbow, 50#, and I'll be shooting carbons to start. I've shot a longbow before, I just upgraded (Thanks Bob!).
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:32 PM   #41
Bisch
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Make sure you use the 4 blades. I never got very good blood trails with the 2 blades but had a lot better result with the 4 blade ones.


I have both 2 and 4 blade Stingers, and can tell no discernible difference in the blood trails they leave. I do agree that the 4 blade “should” leave better blood trails, but I have not seen it.

And I am another one who would never recommend an expandable broadhead from a trad bow! But I also won’t try to tell other what they can use!!!!!

Bisch


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Old 09-26-2018, 12:51 AM   #42
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Nice little can of worms, huh, Jerry?

I would only shoot fixed-blade broadheads from my set-up -- which is pretty dang fast, actually, at 70-lbs, but I have personally seen my friend Gary do very well with those Rages. He's not saying someone else should shoot them; I believe he's just saying he's had some success and others might consider using them.

Although I have personally seen massive blood loss and immediate kill from a Rage shot with a trad bow, I can see many pitfalls -- hit shoulder going in (might stop right there); less chance of two-holes for pass-through, therefore, less blood to trail ... POSSIBLY. Could be that with adequate penetration upon entry that a bucket of blood will show the trail from that first hole. Gary says his set-up delivers proper energy to make the head work; I believe that he can read a chart, and I know that he can deliver the arrow!

I'm glad to see a cordial discussion of the possible broadheads that might be used to kill critters in the most efficient manner. Good luck this season everyone!
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:22 AM   #43
Randy Madden
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Already answered in post 21. Didn't mean to start anything, just asking what broad heads you all like to shoot traditional style (since this is a trad category).

I just picked up a Sarrels Yukon longbow, 50#, and I'll be shooting carbons to start. I've shot a longbow before, I just upgraded (Thanks Bob!).
Sorry bud, didn’t see that.
175 grain is plenty of head. Whichever ever you choose just make sure they are well tuned and sharp as you well know I’m sure. I also like to keep my hunting arrows above 10 gpp. I don’t worry about foc. As long as they are reasonably heavy, sharp and well tuned you have absolutely nothing to worry about.

I (like Bisch) like my GK’s. 150 grain with 75 grain inserts. Total arrow weight of 540 grains out of my 50# at my DL bow. But I don’t think I’d ever pay full price for them. I got a really good deal on them several years ago. I think Bisch is still upset I beat him to those! Lol
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Old 09-26-2018, 10:33 AM   #44
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This will be a trial by error quest until you find out what works best for you.

I personally use the Palmer Extreme cut 162 gr 4 blade broadhead with a 1.5" cut.

I have found great success with these heads and have no reason to try anything else.

That said, I know of one person on here who did not have the same luck so ..... who knows.

One tip that has worked very well for me..... I set/run my main blade flat. This seems to help flight with all broadheads I have ever used.

It also helps visually.

And no I would not recommend using a Rage. Not that they dont work... but because they add an extra variable that is uncontrollable.
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Old 09-26-2018, 10:45 AM   #45
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This will be a trial by error quest until you find out what works best for you.

I personally use the Palmer Extreme cut 162 gr 4 blade broadhead with a 1.5" cut.

I have found great success with these heads and have no reason to try anything else.

That said, I know of one person on here who did not have the same luck so ..... who knows.

One tip that has worked very well for me..... I set/run my main blade flat. This seems to help flight with all broadheads I have ever used.

It also helps visually.

And no I would not recommend using a Rage. Not that they dont work... but because they add an extra variable that is uncontrollable.
I'm guessing by flat, you mean that you orient your main blade horizontally rather than vertically.

I also do the same and mainly for flight reasons as well. I'm pretty sure the reason behind that is a concept called "tillering." If you have ever sailed a boat and used to tiller to move your transom to the left or right, you can see the effect that I'm referring to. When you finger release an arrow, that arrow is going to bend back and forth horizontally. It dampens down over time and eventually gets out of "whack" as the arrow starts to rotate... but the biggest forces come when you first release. Well if your blade is set vertically, that blade acts just like a tiller in water (but in air) and steers a lot more. If you orient your blade horizontally, you don't get that effect as the blade "cuts" through the air.

Back when I shot a compound, I had some tuning issues (essentially weak spine) that my broadheads would hit higher if I had them laying horizontally (on a compound/center shot with mechanical release, the arrow deflects up/down vs left/right on a finger release.) So I would orient my broadheads vertically to avoid the "tillering" effect.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:05 AM   #46
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Magnus. I just sent 5 back that had all killed several animals each. Hard to beat when they just send you new ones. Really good warranty.

Have an old Martin Hatfield TD 50 lbs and shoot magnus they work very well . Never tried much else as well if its not broken I see no reason to try and fix it
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:12 AM   #47
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My favorite broadhead is the one that flies well...and hecho en Los Estados Unidos.

I slayed a couple critters last year with the 175grain VPA three blade. I think theyd do you well. Ill use them again when I can tune back to them.

Good luck MIHunter.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:14 AM   #48
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Already answered in post 21. Didn't mean to start anything, just asking what broad heads you all like to shoot traditional style (since this is a trad category).

I just picked up a Sarrels Yukon longbow, 50#, and I'll be shooting carbons to start. I've shot a longbow before, I just upgraded (Thanks Bob!).
Hey bud.

Sorry about that. Just something that has been brewing. There is a history of some new folks getting some not so great equipment advice that has cost them some money and heartache in the past year or so... and I just couldn't let it go on this one.

There was nothing wrong with your question, and sorry that it blew up a tad. One of my first posts on the trad forum over 4 years ago about shooting off a shelf blew up into something about using binoculars at the stake at TBOT shoots, etc... I was obviously very confused as to why my simple question blew up... but there was something brewing beneath the surface and my genuine question flipped a switch for a discussion that needed to be had.

Again apologies.

My response about using a Simmons Tiger Shark actually wasn't directed at Gary/DRT. He has his own mind made up on what he is going to try. That recommendation was to you.

I started off using Stingers and quickly moved to Zwickey Deltas. About a year or so later, I actually learned how to properly sharpen a Zwickey! After that, I really wanted to switch to a head that didn't lose so much weight when sharpening them properly, so I finally went the route of the Simmons heads. There are plenty of folks on here that were using those heads and I was somewhat skeptical, but I gave them a try. Unlike some of the vented heads I had used before, these heads proved to be very tough. They also held a really good edge and I found a good way to sharpen them inexpensively in both time and money. I didn't really take a hard look at them to realize how big of a cutting diameter they have. they fly great and the widest part of the blade doesn't really have a lot of surface area for windage, which is why I think they do a decent job. With the critters I have hit, I have had a pretty good blood trail... even for what I'd consider very marginal (aka bad) shots.

Nothing wrong with Zwickeys and I still have a bunch that I'll have in my quiver for smaller things like raccoons and dillers, etc... but at 50#, I'd definitely recommend giving the simmons sharks a good look (I am running 48# at my draw.)
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:16 AM   #49
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I've always been a Magnus fan. They have performed well for me.
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:36 PM   #50
ballgame
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Originally Posted by SwampRabbit View Post
I'm guessing by flat, you mean that you orient your main blade horizontally rather than vertically.

I also do the same and mainly for flight reasons as well. I'm pretty sure the reason behind that is a concept called "tillering." If you have ever sailed a boat and used to tiller to move your transom to the left or right, you can see the effect that I'm referring to. When you finger release an arrow, that arrow is going to bend back and forth horizontally. It dampens down over time and eventually gets out of "whack" as the arrow starts to rotate... but the biggest forces come when you first release. Well if your blade is set vertically, that blade acts just like a tiller in water (but in air) and steers a lot more. If you orient your blade horizontally, you don't get that effect as the blade "cuts" through the air.

Back when I shot a compound, I had some tuning issues (essentially weak spine) that my broadheads would hit higher if I had them laying horizontally (on a compound/center shot with mechanical release, the arrow deflects up/down vs left/right on a finger release.) So I would orient my broadheads vertically to avoid the "tillering" effect.
that is correct. Main blade horizontal.
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