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Kids 5x6 “Killin Cabin”... (my attempt at a more budget friendly blind)

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    Kids 5x6 “Killin Cabin”... (my attempt at a more budget friendly blind)

    2 years ago I built the kids a deer stand. It’s amazing, insulated, sealed... it’s nice.... and heavy... and expensive.... and not real mobile. I may have them hunting 10 miles apart from year to year. Depending on where the target animals are, since I primarily hunt 100ac and less ( most under 40).

    I wanted:
    Lighter
    CHEAPER....but not at a functionality cost. If it only last 10 vs 30 I’m good with that
    Lower windows to allow for field pod

    Started with 8- 24’ 14ga sticks of 1 1/2” sq tubing ($173... only used 7). Built the base and skid unit first. I turned ends up and capped as can be seen in other pics
    Attached Files

    #2
    Once I had base built, I squared walls 6’ 4” front 5’ 10” back. By doing the top in “joist” I was able to keep roof flat and walls flat. Without angle changes to make gaps. Also reduced deadwood and material waste. A single brace at 36” was welded in vs 2... the way I frame windows, it will be more than stiff enough... and save weight and materials

    That’s all that’s left from 7 sticks. No pieced together stuff. All solid. All ends folded or capped and welded solid... in theory it should float.

    Oh... went ahead and welded the shelf frame (angle iron) in place at this time too
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Low Fence; 05-12-2020, 11:58 AM.

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      #3
      I hired a professional to help pop lines and sheet this thing. 7 sheets 1/2 osb and 1 sheet 3/4 ply for floor. I went with osb for 2 reasons. 1. CHEAP.. 1/2 price of ply in my area and what I’m going to coat with, cardboard would be sufficient. I installed metal corners, then applied “red guard” or aqua defense to every seam and edge... 2 coats. It’s the same stuff I use in showers to waterproof sheet rock or concrete. It’s basically a thick rubber mat once dried. Ran 2x4 for roof trim and put a 7* bevel on front and back to allow roof to lay perfect flat to keep bigs and wasp down. I had metal from take off so I don’t have price there.
      (Wood-$140, sealer $55)
      Attached Files

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        #4
        My plan was to buy the windows and doors from deerview.... I went ahead with windows, cause I can’t build em for that price... although the 3week wait I could have. Went against the door. I can build a sealed (enough) door and shipping meant my kids couldn’t go to college. So made a door and hung it (still waiting on windows) and got some oppps paint 1/2 price in a lovely shade of dark brown. Perfect for interior. I had 1/2 a gallon of my signature “gut shot javelina green” from other blind. So the outside got a mop coat of that. Had another gallon mixed and put 2 more rolled on coats to exterior. And that’s where we sit till windows make it.

        Windows are 38” from floor to bottom. Perfect for shorter folk and kids. I’m 5’8” and hate shooting from manufacturers blinds. Too high
        Attached Files

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          #5
          Looks awesome sir!

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            #6
            I have enough carpet from other blind to do shelf. Probably rough cedar on face of angle iron. Will look for carpet vs new (it gets pricey quick)

            All together around $650 (and I had metal for roof). It blows my mind to cost so much to build these. If you put labor in it the manufacture ones ain’t really a bad deal... or should I say, they ain’t making a killing on them

            I THINK my 4 wheeler will drag it, I know 2 will. I can dead lift one end... but it ain’t as light as I hoped. Just frame was very light, I could walk around carrying the whole thing no problem. But that wood adds up FAST

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              #7
              That thing turned out awesome man!

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                #8
                Looks good. I've gotta come up with something for my wife's spot at the lease this year. May have to do something similar, since they clear cut it.

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                  #9
                  Looks great, man.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Looks great.

                    I don’t see you needing to drag it much since you have that John Deere in the background.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by bboswell View Post
                      Looks great.

                      I don’t see you needing to drag it much since you have that John Deere in the background.
                      Lol. That will get it on and off trailer. I’m gonna have to chainsaw a lane to get it into the woods. Lol

                      Comment


                        #12
                        An idea for thought understanding you will only move this slowly and not on the highway. I use any axle available I can find or use axle stubs from tractor supply or Northern Tool and make my axle. Measure your skid outside width and add the necessary tire clearance weld 2 angle clip onto the axle top, weld tongue directly to the axle using side gussets. The frame rail set on the angles and I simply drill 2 bolt holes and bolt it onto the rail and axle. Weld a bar on at the front bottom of the skid to help support the tongue. If you design all yours frames the same width 1 axle assembly is enough. Works well for my needs.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Very nice work! Need to give your helper a good raise!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            [QUOTE=Low Fence;14864299]I hired a professional to help pop lines and sheet this thing. 7 sheets 1/2 osb and 1 sheet 3/4 ply for floor. I went with osb for 2 reasons. 1. CHEAP.. 1/2 price of ply in my area and what I’m going to coat with, cardboard would be sufficient.[/ QUOTE]


                            I need more info on this wonder coating!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              [quote=bboswell;14865207]
                              Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
                              I hired a professional to help pop lines and sheet this thing. 7 sheets 1/2 osb and 1 sheet 3/4 ply for floor. I went with osb for 2 reasons. 1. CHEAP.. 1/2 price of ply in my area and what I’m going to coat with, cardboard would be sufficient.[/ QUOTE]


                              I need more info on this wonder coating!
                              Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and go to the tile and flooring. Home Depot carries “custom” = Red Guard and Lowe’s sells Mapie = aqua defense. One is hot pink and dries red. Other is turquoise and dries dark green. It’s used in walk in showers and tub surround to waterproof. It’s similar to rubber dip for tool handles. It will Free span 1/4” gaps. Lots of YouTube on it searching for shower builds. You can honestly build a shower from cardboard (one guy did). Then just paint whatever color you want over it

                              It’s pricey but goes a long way. A gallon will do 2 big showers or... a bunch of deer stands... or 1 deer stand and a few showers. Lol

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