ILF recurve vs Wood laminate LB

[coop2564]

Just wondering if others have my experience. Been shooting wood recurves and LB's for years on and off. But recently got a Tbow ILF recurve (clone of Satori) and its just a lot more accurate than my other wood bows. I think mainly due to weight. Main difference that I see is when I pluck string with my light wood bows at 25 yds my shot maybe off 10" when I do same with TBOW its only off 3". Just seems the light wood my arm seems to jump more when I have a bad release. Form with the light wood bows is super critical, the TBOW is more forgiving. Shooting fixed crawl and gap, so shooting should be equal. Both are tuned with their own arrows.
Others have same experience or thoughts?

[RickBarbee]

The weight of just about any metal riser (doesn't have to be ILF) will usually add some stability in the shot.

I've added weight under the limbs of many a take down all wood recurve.

A lot of the bowyers now days have started incorporating heavy/heavier materials into their risers for this very reason.

Rick

[coop2564]

The weight of just about any metal riser (doesn't have to be ILF) will usually add some stability in the shot.

I've added weight under the limbs of many a take down all wood recurve.

A lot of the bowyers now days have started incorporating heavy/heavier materials into their risers for this very reason.

Rick

Yeah I've seen more custom bows adding G10 in risers. Thought it was for looks but maybe like you said weight too.

[DRT]

Strength and weight. Metal risers are for compound bows.

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[RickBarbee]

Yeah I've seen more custom bows adding G10 in risers. Thought it was for looks but maybe like you said weight too.

It adds weight as well as strength to cut down on flex, and it also allows them to be cut a little farther past center.

Gary (DRT), have you ever had a wood riser break in half at full draw?
I have (twice). It ain't no fun, so after the second one, I swore off of them.

Metal riser all the way for me baby. :P

Rick

[Bisch]

Strength and weight. Metal risers are for compound bows.

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Ditto what he said^^^^^

Bisch


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[RickBarbee]

Strength and weight. Metal risers are for compound bows.

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Ditto what he said^^^^^

Bisch


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LOL - Not.

[DRT]

Rick I think you would find yourself in the minority for folks your age on that opinion. Now the younger guys who have no soul . . . Well, I phone people. [emoji849]
[emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23]

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[DRT]

Most new trad shooters have the thought, how far can I kill something. Old school trad archers have the thought, how close can I get to kill something.
Can ILF be very precision ? Yes sir.
But it's never just about the bow or the arrow. The vast majority cannot shoot to the potential of a Samick Sage. Including myself.

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[SJP51]

I owned a Satori for a few months and enjoyed shooting it. I noted that the flat grip made a huge difference in my accuracy and consistency. I've since modified the grips of my wood handle bows to achieve that flat grip profile. Sold the Satori as too many bows hurts instinctive shooting.

If I ever have another bow made, it'll have a flat grip exactly like the Satori.

[DRT]

We would all be better off shooting just one bow and one arrow set up.
Just like we'd be better off with one woman instead of . . .

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[JayBay3405]

I am a relative new shooter will only a couple of kills under my belt and only about, two years worth of trad experience. That being said I am not being a smart@ss or anything with this question, I am truly trying to learn something. I could understand a wood riser breaking if it was a craftsmanship defect, or the bow had gotten hot, abused, or shooting wrong kind of string, or an arrow that was not heavy enough. Other than the things I mentioned what would cause a solid wood riser to break if the bow was not abused, or not used in a way that was not intended?

[SJP51]

One of my Bob Lee wood risers developed a crack after about 9-months of shooting it. No abuse. No heat. It just got a crack. They replaced it free of charge.

Wood can have flaws the eye does not see. The grain can be slightly different inside than outside. Who knows. It's a natural material. The metal used in an ILF riser SHOULD be well made with well engineered processes that can be contolled and measured. Not so with wood.

[DRT]

I've never had a riser break and although I'm sure it happens, I doubt seriously that it does to many. A crack, sure. But Bob's (Rob's) risers are not solid wood either. I've shot wood risers in compound bows as well without an issue. I'd trust a solid piece of wood or G10 more than cast aluminum for sure. I've seen cast aluminum bows crack as well.
Reality is most non self bows are not just "wood" risers. Most have a minimum of G10 or other composite for an I beam or even a block with laminate glued to it and is impervious to weather as well as machineable to be as precise as aluminum. Not a lot of difference really. But the look and feel is esthetically more pleasing to the discerning archer.
Some kids like Lego blocks, some Lincoln logs.

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[JayBay3405]

One of my Bob Lee wood risers developed a crack after about 9-months of shooting it. No abuse. No heat. It just got a crack. They replaced it free of charge.

Wood can have flaws the eye does not see. The grain can be slightly different inside than outside. Who knows. It's a natural material. The metal used in an ILF riser SHOULD be well made with well engineered processes that can be contolled and measured. Not so with wood.

I can understand that so my guess would be that most of the wood risers that break do so relatively soon after they were made.