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Old 02-23-2020, 06:38 PM   #1
Eagle19
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Default Bass tracker II to Flats skiff

So, this thread will be spread out over the next year, but I bought a new project boat. Starting brain storming ideas now.

My current bass tracker super bandit I bought several years from a TBHíer and made it into a bass/duck boat. Itís more of a A to B kind of boat. Doesnít get that shallow but has a 90hp Evinrude. It was a lot of work I feel like, and it gave me ideas on how to do things differently on the next one. So Iím going to finish rewiring it, and redo the hydro turf and put it up for sale. The sale of that will help fund this next build.

Seemed like my bigger pain points on the super bandit had to do with the livewells, old foam, and rivets. So in my mind, I wanted something to strip down to the bare hull and rebuild up. I never used my livewells, never really missed them either. I still want to use this boat to duck hunt in, so Iíd rather have open floor space. Iíve also gotten into fly fishing and want to chase fish in the flats. Looked at having a custom boat built, and it was too pricey. Iíd rather invest that money else where. I really like the Sabine skiffs but they are like $30K. I could spend that on a cheap investment property on the coast or something instead. So I figured I would look for an old alumacraft boat that was a failed project.

Ended up scoring a 16ft bass tracker II for $360 with a tilt trailer. Best part about it is itís about 90% gutted! Most the hard work is done I feel like. So itís just about a solid blank slate and itís a mod-v with a flat bottom. Should be able to cut waves and get shallow.

Here are some crappy pictures - I had to drop it off at a buddyís before I broke the news to my wife.



So here are my ideas and Iím open to hearing more!
-Pull the two live wells in the boat.
-Remove the two seats(they arenít really seats but have a bunch foam in them).
-Remove riveted side rail
-Add top deck (similar to a Sabine)
-Water test rivets and fix as needed
-Put frog spit on the bottom
-Probably do a coat flex seal on the inside and put in foam board for floatation
-Install aluminum floor
-Looking at doing a jet drive tiller possibly?
-Iíll probably weld some square tubing on the front to add different attachments(think truck hitch) winch and for LED light bars for bow fishing
-Removable push pole platform but make it to where I can add a duck blind utilizing mounting
-Gas tank and batteries to front
-Jackplate depending on how motor fits
- 2 hatches with 2 removable waterproof lining to access other things in the boat
- Self bailing plug

Thatís my game plan for getting it functional.

Things I havenít decided:
-Pods - maybe even a hinging pod similar to Lenco tabs
- Color - wife thinks my camo boat looks hideous in the driveway so Iím thinking a solid color but still duck hunting friendly. Any of you guys have any ideas?
- How I want to rig up for fish finder/Gps
- Canít decide if I want to get a sound bar or not
- Canít decide on if I want to do seadek or not
- power pole or manual?

Curious to hear any helpful input! Iíve got to offload some items before I get started on this build, but Iím hoping to have the bulk of it done before June but itíll probably be a year long add.


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Old 02-23-2020, 06:47 PM   #2
Eagle19
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This is the lay out Iím going to go for minus the side console.


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Old 02-23-2020, 06:50 PM   #3
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Looking forward to the updates. Best of luck.
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:54 PM   #4
flywise
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Nice
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:05 PM   #5
RockTippedStick
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Keep as much weight out as you can so its not too hard to pull it out of the mud when we get stuck. Nice project boat brother. We need to take a ride in mine to catch some crappie soon.
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Old 02-23-2020, 09:29 PM   #6
Eagle19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockTippedStick View Post
Keep as much weight out as you can so its not too hard to pull it out of the mud when we get stuck. Nice project boat brother. We need to take a ride in mine to catch some crappie soon.


Should definitely be heating up soon!


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Old 02-26-2020, 06:18 PM   #7
Kossetx
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Good luck. I built an alweld out in the early '90's. HD foam covered in glass for front and rear decks and floor, front and rear raised platforms, spontoons and a jack plate. I didn't have walkarounds though. They get kinda heavy when all done though.
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Old 02-26-2020, 06:22 PM   #8
kruppa24
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Enjoy watching these builds
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Old 03-02-2020, 06:15 AM   #9
Big pig
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Great ideas. Will it be “tippy” with big guys walking around.
On the deck and poling platform?

Your wife would not like my wardrobe.



BP

Last edited by Big pig; 03-02-2020 at 06:19 AM.
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Old 03-02-2020, 07:30 AM   #10
Flex
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My rebuild is similar to this. 17.5x60 with a 70hp.

I have some recommendations.

Don't use flex seal. Does not hold up.

I would go with a normal outboard and put in "taller" center console. That way you can see more while cruising. With float pods and an 8" jack plate you will be able to run under a foot. And faster than a jet.

Add a poling platform out back.

I extended the elevated front deck a little on mine. And when I need height I will strap a 60qt cooler onto it for extra elevation. Allows me to remove everything for a low profile to duck hunt.
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Old 03-02-2020, 07:46 AM   #11
MainFrame8
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I’ve wanted to do the same thing. Will be following this
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Old 03-02-2020, 12:47 PM   #12
Eagle19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big pig View Post
Great ideas. Will it be ďtippyĒ with big guys walking around.
On the deck and poling platform?

Your wife would not like my wardrobe.

Brad Paisley Camouflage - YouTube


BP


It might be a little tippy. But I think the goal for the most part will be to keep all the weight in the center. By standing on a cooler and poling off a platform you kind of limit yourself on movement.


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Old 03-02-2020, 12:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flex View Post
My rebuild is similar to this. 17.5x60 with a 70hp.



I have some recommendations.



Don't use flex seal. Does not hold up.



I would go with a normal outboard and put in "taller" center console. That way you can see more while cruising. With float pods and an 8" jack plate you will be able to run under a foot. And faster than a jet.



Add a poling platform out back.



I extended the elevated front deck a little on mine. And when I need height I will strap a 60qt cooler onto it for extra elevation. Allows me to remove everything for a low profile to duck hunt.


Really the idea on the flex seal is to help make the hull quieter and be on the inside of the boat then covered with foam sheets and aluminum flooring. So it should stay out of the elements. If it actually helps with sealing that will be a plus. But Iíll fix rivets before hand if need be.

Iím hoping to have the tiller steer with extended handle so I can sit on top of poling platform in the back and drive.


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Old 03-02-2020, 12:55 PM   #14
silencer2011
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That's a nice tracker! I have been looking for a cheap one to gut for a private lake bass rig. I know i can buy a good 16' jon boat new, but i can buy a used 16' tracker cheaper, and they already have fishing decks!
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:59 PM   #15
Eagle19
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Just got a smoking deal on an 03 40hp Merc with only 30 hours on it.

Itís a long shaft motor - so Iíll have to find a different lower unit (has the lower unit with an extension bolted on). But Iíll probably just end up going prop instead of jet.


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Old 04-13-2020, 10:00 PM   #16
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With the corona Iíve been working on the boat motor. No major motors issues with it, but Iím converting it to a tiller steer. This motor has less than 30 hours on it but it spent its whole life on one of those orange safety boats on a merchant ship. They just had to pull the motor because they are required to have motors no older than a specific age.

Problem number one was converting the motor to a tiller steer. It had side console controls and the bracket/bolts that holds the tiller handle on were completely rusted and corroded. So I had to grind what was left of the bolt heads off. Remove the old handle bracket. Then grind the studs into a rectangle and use vice grips to get them out. Took about 8 hours of patience, beating with a hammer and heating parts up repeatedly.




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Old 04-13-2020, 10:14 PM   #17
Eagle19
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Upon further investigation to the lower unit - I donít think itís a long shaft. It just has a kit that was installed to extend the lower unit. The problem is there isnít a parts list for the kit used online. So I started breaking it down to see if I could figure out what was what. It came apart like a regular lower unit. Extension was just a block with extended studs into the midsection of the motor. Obviously the extended studs will have to be replaced. So I doubled up the bolts and were able to back the studs out. I believe there is a shaft extension but of course it didnít come out with the shaft. So that will be a pain to fish out. And I think I Iíll need to buy a new shift rod thatís shorter.




So Iíll have to buy new stock studs, a shift rod, and bolts to bolt on tiller handle.

So far I only have $750 wrapped up in this motor.


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Old 04-19-2020, 08:16 PM   #18
Slicefixer
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IN for this one.....hehehe

I've got an old, mid 80's, 17' tracker with a classic 50 on it....been thinking about doing the same thing...
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Old 04-24-2020, 08:55 AM   #19
RANDYM17
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Real cool project, keep it up
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:09 PM   #20
Eagle19
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Having somewhat of a hard time.

So thought there was an extension on the driveshaft. I had the motor laying sideways on a motor stand. So I thought I just couldnít get the extension to slide out. So I stuck a 5/8 dowel rod up in what I thought was the extension then it wouldnít slide out. I kept trying to pull until it broke. So then I took the side cowl off not knowing I had an easy view of everything. So I drilled a hole in the side of the dowel rod and stuck a metal bar in there and hit it with a hammer. It just broke off again. So now Iím taking a step back trying to figure out how to get this booger out.




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