Proper arrow lentgh

[txdukklr]

I am going to have to disagree on the arrow length being dependent on tuning, at least to most of the bowhunters out there. Most bowhunters are going to buy a certain length arrow based on how long they want their arrows to be based on where they want there bh to sit in front of the riser or above the shelf. then they are going to look at the chart for a particular arrow and look at the # of their bow, cam style and point weight and then buy the right spine according to these variables. Then with this spine arrow, point weight and length, bow tuning can begin. The variables can be changed by the point weight or feather/vane combo or increasing or decrreasing the bow draw weight. The perfect way, but the longest and hardest for most bowhunters would be to start with a longer arrow and tune by cutting the shaft to achieve optimum arrow flight. Then again, the bow needs to be tuned perfect to make this happen and if the bow is tuned, then you shold be able to look at the charts and buy a shaft within the spine recommended and get good arrow flight.

Here's my question. I agree with you because I cut my arrows then tuned to that set up. The result was backing my poundage down to 62 in order to get a good group.

So if I want to add say 5 pounds wouldn't I move up to a 300 and then cut based on the length and therefore spine that would re group my BH's?

[Mudslinger]

I have usually gone a spine heavier than recommended and never ran into the problem of having to back my weight down. If you go 1 spine heavier than you are shooting now, then yes everything should work with 5#'s more on the pull.

[Seabee99]

I am going to have to disagree on the arrow length being dependent on tuning, at least to most of the bowhunters out there. Most bowhunters are going to buy a certain length arrow based on how long they want their arrows to be based on where they want there bh to sit in front of the riser or above the shelf. then they are going to look at the chart for a particular arrow and look at the # of their bow, cam style and point weight and then buy the right spine according to these variables. Then with this spine arrow, point weight and length, bow tuning can begin. The variables can be changed by the point weight or feather/vane combo or increasing or decrreasing the bow draw weight. The perfect way, but the longest and hardest for most bowhunters would be to start with a longer arrow and tune by cutting the shaft to achieve optimum arrow flight. Then again, the bow needs to be tuned perfect to make this happen and if the bow is tuned, then you should be able to look at the charts and buy a shaft within the spine recommended and get good arrow flight.

What I am trying to say is that you really need to look at your variable factors to determine what length arrow you need. If you shoot 70#, then go buy .300's, then cut them too short, you are either going to be shooting a 300 grain broadhead to get them to shoot ok, or buy another dozen arrows. And like the method you mention in your post, this is how I always start out. Start weak, then cut to stiffen until I feel I have achieved best possible flight. My main point is that you cannot always tune a bow to an arrow length and that the OP needs to look at all the other factors involved.

[Seabee99]

Here's my question. I agree with you because I cut my arrows then tuned to that set up. The result was backing my poundage down to 62 in order to get a good group.

So if I want to add say 5 pounds wouldn't I move up to a 300 and then cut based on the length and therefore spine that would re group my BH's?

I am assuming you are shooting .340 range arrow now. You would have to be shooting a pretty long arrow or heavy tip to warrant shooting a .300 spine at 67#. You could probably get satisfactory results by taking an inch or so off your current arrows.
I personally will not back my bow down It will stay on 70#. That is why I tune my arrows to my bow.

[Mudslinger]

Seabee99, I understand with what you are saying and some bows may have to be done that way, but on bows I have tuned if the arrow is a little bit overspined, it is a lot easier to get a good tune rather than one that is underspined. If I know what length i normally shoot and my poundage is 70#'s and the charts show me at the upper end of the arrow spine on the chart, then I normally go 1 spine heavier to be on the safer side.

[txdukklr]

I'm shooting a 400 with a 28" draw which is why I have to get down to 62. 340 is where I'm gonna need to go to pick up lbs.