Trad guys: Longbow arrow flight help

[Bisch]

The best way to tell if too stiff or weak is to shoot thru paper from 6’ and let the tear tell you for sure. I say for sure, but that is not always the case either, as funky form can cause funky paper tears.

My gut tells me a .500 spine shaft off a 40# bow (if that is your actual draw weight) is too stiff!

Bisch


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[DRT]

I shot a 500 spine at 41lbs with 150 grains up front. But on a bow that was cut 3/16ths past center. Only cut to center you have to get enough flex to clear the riser. I only draw 26.5". Your draw length would help.

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[60 Deluxe]

I think that your arrows are too stiff. Remember that longbows tend to make an arrow act stiff. Then consider that a 40 pound bow usually takes a 600 spine. So, you are taking a too stiff spine and trimming it, which makes it stiffer yet, and shooting it out of a longbow that tends to make an arrow act stiff, and you only have 225 grains up front. If I'm not mistaken, it appears to me that your arrow isn't bending around the riser and is bumping and kicking out. Then the fletchings get control and straighten out the flight. I switch to 600 spine at around forty-three pounds and leave the shafts full length on my recurves. They fly like darts and are quick. I don't have any longbows that light, but considering that a longbow doesn't cast an arrow as hard as a recurve, it is even more reason to drop down in spine at a higher draw weight.

[SJP51]

The fletches "fix" or at least mask whatever arrow problems you have. Shoot a bare shaft (with tape instead of feathers) and see what it does. With no fletches, the bare shaft will tell the tale.

I prefer to start bare shafting at 5-yards. Wildly mis-spined arrows can fly erratically, and you can miss a smallish target. Then move slowly back to 20-yards and observe arrow flight. What you can see with the naked eye is amazing and the results confirming.

Shooting thru paper can work (as Bisch describes) but the arrow can still be oscillating normally at 6-feet. You can shoot it at 6-ft, then move back to 8 ft and get a different result. Just what I've found on recurves.

[Bisch]

When I paper tune, I start at 6’. Once I get a bullet hole at 6’, I move back to 15’ and confirm all is good. Once I get good holes at both distances, I then move to a regular target and verify further by making sure my broadheads hit with my field points.

When all that is good, then I take out a bare shaft and shoot it at a target (not thru paper). Usually, the bare shaft will be real close, sometimes needing very minor adjustments to make everything just right.

Bisch


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[Sika]

Just a newbie but I agree with Bisch. Try 600 spine. I didn't shoot through paper but did the bare shaft method. I started with a typical arrow spine chart which indicated 600 spine for 35-40 lbs. Cut arrows to 28" and added a heavy insert and went to 150 grain field point. Those arrows shot "well enough" until I got better and more consistent form then they really started shooting straight.

[DRT]

Funny thing is as you grow in your form your draw length can change so what you think your at now may be different in a year or two.

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[muddydog]

I too think your arrow is too stiff. I'm shooting a too stiff arrow as well. 30" get 400 with a 50# recurve. I had to bump tip weight to 300 grains to get good paper test results. All the online spine calculators were way off for my setup. I'd try full length 500 or cut some 600 to tune.

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[Chew]

Shot some full length arrows this morning. Use the regular inserts instead of the 50 grain with 150 grain tip. Seem to be flying pretty darn good on video.

All of the arrow charts when I was shopping put it right between $500 and 600. Then they were out of stock on the 600 so I went with the 500. Figured a heavier front end would help with the stiffness if that was an issue. But the arrows flying knock left earlier which I thought indicated a weak spine. That's why I started trimming that one arrow a little bit at a time to try to stiffen it up

[DRT]

Shot some full length arrows this morning. Use the regular inserts instead of the 50 grain with 150 grain tip. Seem to be flying pretty darn good on video.

All of the arrow charts when I was shopping put it right between $500 and 600. Then they were out of stock on the 600 so I went with the 500. Figured a heavier front end would help with the stiffness if that was an issue. But the arrows flying knock left earlier which I thought indicated a weak spine. That's why I started trimming that one arrow a little bit at a time to try to stiffen it up

Did you use an arrow chart or a spine calculator like 3rivers has?

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[wytex]

What king of fletches do you have on the arrows, feathers or vanes? Might be kicking the arrow because if the rest clearance with a vane.
Looks too stiff to me also, try longer arrows and/or a weaker spine.

None of you all shoot woodies any more?

[txchuck]

Here is a way to know what is hitting what. Buy a can of aerosol dry foot powder spray it on your bow shoot & see where it gets wiped off. then Spray an arrow and see what part of the arrow / fletching is striking the bow. This does not solve a mismatched spine problem but it can give you some valuable info. Sometimes just just rotating the nock a little will cure the interference.

[Chew]

Did you use an arrow chart or a spine calculator like 3rivers has?

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I tried using 3rivers but too many questions I couldn't answer at the time. I don't think my exact arrows were on the drop down list either. I think I used the manufacturer's chart:

What king of fletches do you have on the arrows, feathers or vanes? Might be kicking the arrow because if the rest clearance with a vane.
Looks too stiff to me also, try longer arrows and/or a weaker spine.

None of you all shoot woodies any more?

3 feathers (4")

Here is a way to know what is hitting what. Buy a can of aerosol dry foot powder spray it on your bow shoot & see where it gets wiped off. then Spray an arrow and see what part of the arrow / fletching is striking the bow. This does not solve a mismatched spine problem but it can give you some valuable info. Sometimes just just rotating the nock a little will cure the interference.

Thanks. Appreciate it.

[Briar Friar]

Chew…Have you bareshaft indexed your shaft rotation? Which direction are your shafts turning whilst naked?

I rewatched your slo mo and it looks like your shaft is oscillating/paradoxing counterclock wise. Then the fletchings take over and kick the shaft to a clockwise spin.

[Chew]

I have six arrows that are all fletched. Not quite to the point of starting over with bare shafting. Everything I read said left-wing helical right-wing helical doesn't matter so how could it switch directions in mid-flight? I'm open to any discussion on the laws of physics. [emoji16][emoji16]

But I think I see what your saying.