What you need to get started (Beginners guide Volume II)

[Buff]

it doesn't cost a lot to get started. You can pick up a good used bow for $100.00 and remember that once you progress to the point that you what to move up in poundage, you should have no problem recooping your investment as used bows keep their value very well. Start with a low poundage bow. 40 to 45 is plenty to get you started. You will need arrows that are spined to fit your bow. Get help with the tuning. A lot of folks try Traditional equipment and give up quickly because they just can seem to get it, when the truth of the matter is they have arrows that are not the correct spine or their bows are poorly tuned. the best of us can't shoot a poorly tuned bow with any consistency. Next you will need a glove or tab. I would recommend a glove as your fingers will tend to get tender starting out with a soft tab.

[delriowil]

Great point.

[greenflag]

What bows are best in the $100 range?

[mar91773]

There are bear recurves on ebay all the time at 100-200 bills. I hear they are hard to shoot, but I dont know have not shot one and have a hard time payin that much to find out.
Ronnie

[tinman]

"Wing recurve" will also yield some decent search results on e-bay.

[LostHawg]

For the beginner, I highly recommend a back quiver that will hold lots of arrows. When you're shooting, hang the quiver on a limb or nail close at hand. The more arrows, the better. Erect a bale target, preferrably one at the least 2'X2'. The bigger the better. A bale with no target markings is preferred, maybe just a dot in the middle if any at all. Step off 8 - 10 paces and that's your starting point.

I also recommend starting with aluminum arrows. They'll take a beating, in my opinion, better than any of the other materials and come in a wide variety. So in line with Buff's post:

light poundage bow
properly spined (aluminum) arrows
bale target
back quiver or 5 gallon bucket.
glove/tab
armguard
and BOWSTRINGER

[Panther]

Take down recurves give you a lot of draw weight options.
In the $100 - 200 range, check-out Quinn bows.
I love couple I have.

Also, shooting with some one is a great way to jump start correct form and gear.

[duck'n]

There is a Quinn Longhorn TD recurve on tradgang.com right now for $150...FYI.

[Cuz]

Buff, I got a WonderBow 40#.Ive been told i can kill hogs deer up to about 20 yards.Whats your take?

[Oneway]

Start up is always a little steep for anyone no matter who you are because it is an inital investment, but it will be minimal and you can get great deals on archery equipment in all parts of the year. This is agreat place to find what you need or help to get what you need!

[Superdog]

I am new to barebows.I have a old Hoyt Pro Hunter recurve 58" and 41lbs (at my draw length).I am not new to a finger release so I am getting the hang of it.I want to upgrade to maybe 50lbs.I see alot of Bear bows on ebay,and other websites,and some Martins too.I have seen recurves from 48" to 62".I like my 58" bow.How much more forgiving would a 60" or a 62" bow be? Would it be worth it to go longer? I,sooner or later,will hunt with it.What would be the way to go (make and model) in a newer bow.I see a brand new Martin X-200 on ebay which is 60" 30 to 55lbs available $279.00.Anyone familiar with this one or any suggestions will be appreciated,thanks.

[tinman]

Welcome to shooting barebow, SD.

I notice very little difference (string pinch/release/forgiveness...is that a word???) between my 58" BW-SA bow and my 62" BW-SA. My draw length is around 27"...any shorter NTN and I might start feeling a bigger difference.

If you're ready to spend $300 on a tradbow, I'd suggest looking at the classifieds here, on Tradgang, and over at Stickbow (even look at E-Bay) to try and find you a good deal on a used custom rather than a "production" type of bow.

Nothing against the Martins...they probably build a good bow. But I've bought some very nice used customs (Stalker, Bob Lee & Black Widow) for the same or just a little more than you're looking at spending there.

Good luck!

[RVPIMP]

Just started using a bow with a Jennings Buck master compound. Going on my first hunt this weekend and after telling a friend he brought a longbow called " The Stick" for me to try ( as a joke ). I loved it so much I bought it and am now considering taking my first hog with it!
Been reading posts here on TBH and really enjoy the camaraderie and how helpful everyone is. Thanks for the advise.

[tinman]

...a friend (he) brought a longbow called " The Stick" for me to try ( as a joke ).

"The Stick" is that a Bob Lee Stick?

If so, I wish I had a friend that funny.

[Spot N Stalk]

Getting your bow to shoot it's best.

http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm

[Chunky]

Working the mid shift so I have time to add to this thread.

Okay, you are here reading and you are thinking of getting into traditional archery.

You need a starter bow, like said above...get a cheap but in good condition used recurve in a low weight that you can easily pull and shoot. This allows you to work on your form and get consistant. What is low weight you ask? Well between 40 and 50 lbs for average adult guys, maybe less if you are small or female. There are normally lots of bows in the range because in a lot of places these are the lowest weight you can hunt with.

You will need to get some arrows that are spined correctly so that they fly well from your bow with you shooting. I have to do this by trial and error for myself, so people can make a pretty good guess on what will work for you, if they know your bow weight, draw length, and arrow tip weight. Do not start with wood arrows, I really suggest carbon. They are very durable and by nature...much more consistant. You need as few variables as possible when learning to shoot. Mismatched arrows will put you at a huge disadvantage. If you are shooting off the shelf (no arrow rest) you will need real feathers for your flechings, vanes will not work.

Okay, now you have a bow and arrows. You need a glove or tab, so that you can shoot without hurting your fingers. They both work, it is just a matter of personal preferance.

That is really all you need to start shooting (well you need a place to shoot). An archery shop, club, or if backyard....you will need a target.

You can leave your bow strung if you are using it alot...but if you are not going to be shooting for awhile, or you need to unstring it for travel. Buy and use a bow stringer. Use it everytime, or you will risk damaging your bow.

A quiver is very good to have, and if you stay with the sport...you will need one. However it is not necessary to get started. I have all types of quivers and use most of them. I like a back quiver for practice and stand hunting, but when stalking and still hunting I like a hip quiver.

We could go on and on...but I really think this is all you need to get started...good luck and welcome to our wonderful sport.

[Clay C]

Im thinking about getting into trad hunting as well. Im looking to buy a good bow but nothing custom yet. I shoot hoyt compounds so was wondering if there trad bows were any good? Also are there any shops or anything of the sort in the greater Houston area that are good with helping with trad setups? Im completely new to traditional so have no clue. Thanks

[tarapan]

I have been shooting traditional[ javelina] target only for 2yrs 35# and can hit accurately 20-30yds. I am concidering compound,but not sure what to get. I AM recovering from shoulder surgery 10\14 and cant wait to purchase new toy.Help needed!

[reedjj]

Thanks for the info been thinking about getting some traditional gear and make a little more of a challenge for myself

[Samiel2d]

Originally Posted by tarapan

I have been shooting traditional[ javelina] target only for 2yrs 35# and can hit accurately 20-30yds. I am concidering compound,but not sure what to get. I AM recovering from shoulder surgery 10\14 and cant wait to purchase new toy.Help needed!

i know this is a traditional thread, but if you are considering a compound i suggest a "youth" bow. or a lower weight trad, good advice imo.

[HighHandicap]

Great thread... is there a similar thread somewhere on this site for us new shooters using compound bows?

[MarkG3]

I'm just getting started and love this thread. I'm currently looking at 3 possible bows to purchase. The Ragim (G&H Outdoors) Wolf Custom, The Martin L-100 or the PSE Sequoia. They all are around the same price. I like the look of the Wolf Custom, although I'd have to order it through my local shop. I'm planning on a drive up to Buda to Cabela's and they have both the Martin and PSE.

[LiveFree]

Great thread! Very helpful!

[jamrice]

DADDY NEEDS A NEW TOY!!!
Great info guys.
I don't know much about bow,,,,, and honestly I don't know if I'll use one, but they sure are cool!!!!!!!!

I'm going to buy one!

[Loreva13]

There is lots of great information on here, great thread!

[Freebird11]

I'm definitely willing to spend "a little more" if I do much more for a custom recurve. The thing is, how do I know Bowyer go? In the last edition of the traditional Bowhunter

[Deb]

Check out SarrelsArchery.com. You will be very satisfied.

[cody]

PSE make really good beginner recurves i have a PSE heritage mustang that i enjoyed shooting for a long time

[ptlmg]

How do i figure my draw length as i have heard that it different than my compound draw length?

[Tedak]

Can you have to low of a draw weight to practice with?

[fletcherfor2]

Originally Posted by ptlmg

How do i figure my draw length as i have heard that it different than my compound draw length?

Draw length is measured from your arrow from the front (actually called the back) edge of your riser to the valley of the nock groove. See picture here:

http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf

Hold with an arrow at full draw, and just have some one grab the arrow right where it overhangs at the front of the bow shelf and pull the arrow away. Mark the arrow where they grabbed it, and measure it from the mark to the valley of the nock groove. You can also do this your self by putting a clothespin on the arrow and drawing slowly while letting the bow push the clothespin. Then just measure from the clothespin to the valley of the nock.

Originally Posted by Tedak

Can you have to low of a draw weight to practice with?

?

[KAZ]

Thanks Chunky this is very helpful and the link to bowmaker is a great tool. Fletcherfor2, the link to 3 Rivers draw /arrow chart is a keeper as well. Thanks

[earn2]

I'm new to archery and this forum is great. I want to go with traditional stick long bow and spend money later. Do you recommend a recurve bow to learn the basics, such as the samick recurve, and then buying a good stick bow later? I'm reading Shooting the Stickbow - Anthony Camera and he tells me to slow down and talk to people first. I'm trying to get out to a shoot, but schedules are tough right now. I'm in Austin, TX. I want to focus on technique and form on a #40 bow first. I'm a lefty. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. - Ernest

[mmarks]

Originally Posted by Deb

Check out SarrelsArchery.com. You will be very satisfied.

I bought a 3 piece takedown from Bob Sarrels last year and love it

[Timberline]

Anyone looking for a beginner bow for cheap couldn't do much worse than a Samick Sage. For $140 brand new, it's a wonderful little bow to start with.

[Pastordriskell]

Wing recurve

[81 mike mike]

Great advice.

[Nikthehick]

Some great info helping a beginner here, much appreciated. Anyone know anywhere in the DFW metroplex that I can go to get a feel for different bows and set ups before investing in a bow?

[DRT]

How do you "tune" a recurve bow? I mean, it's not like you can adjust your rest? School me.

[Bisch]

Originally Posted by DRT

How do you "tune" a recurve bow? I mean, it's not like you can adjust your rest? School me.

To tune a trad bow, you adjust the nocking point, brace height, and you also adjust arrow spine until you get perfect flight. There are several ways to do it:

1. Paper Tuning, which is basically shooting a fletched arrow through a sheet of paper. You then look at the tear in the paper and that tear will tell you what you need to do to fix nock height and what you need to do to fix arrow spine.

2. Bareshaft Tuning, which is basically shooting fletched arrows and bareshaft arrows. How and where the two impact the target tells you what you need to do to fix your nocking point and arrow to get it all correct.

And, actually, you can adjust your rest in several ways, even if shooting off the shelf. You can add layers to your sideplate to adjust centershot, and you can do things to slightly adjust shelf height, like put a toothpick under the velcro shelf rug. Tuning a trad bow is a lot more complicated than one with no knowledge would ever imagine.

The first thing in tuning a trad bow, though, is to have good shooting form. If you do not have good consistent form, tuning will likely only frustrate the heck out of you. I always try to advise new trad folks to concentrate on learning good form, then worry about tuning.

Bisch

[DRT]

Heck for what these arrows cost they best be right. I had all of that set up at the shop. Guess I can shoot it through paper. I can paper tune a compound all day. But you're right. I doubt my former is solid enough to even try just yet.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[Bisch]

Yeah, there is nothing that is cheap anymore!!


I'm not trying to burst your bubble, but there is almost no way, other than sheer luck to get it right without actual tuning. If you are new to this, don't worry about it too much right now. All you need is an arrow that flies relatively good (no obvious bad wobbles in flight) and practice and learn good form from a source that is reliable. The best thing is to have someone experienced to help you out at first. There are very few "set in stone" things with trad shooting, and what one guys does will not necessarily work for the next guy. You need to be ablt to take all the differnt ways to do something, and then figure out which works best for YOU. I'm not trying to scare or intimidate you, just laying it out there so that one day when you are about to tear your hear out over not being able to figure something out, maybe it won't be so bad. Getting good with trad gear is hard, and as such, the rewards are much greater when accomplishments are made or goals attained!

Bisch

[DRT]

Well I have 29.5" 500 arrows and my draw length measured at center point of shelf is 24". Black Eagle Vintage arrows. I have no idea what the inserts or the nocs weigh but currently I am using 100 grain field points.

Matched up to a Bear Black Panther Hunter that is 45lbs at 28". Brace height is 7.5". Arrow flight looks much better using the release. Guess my fingers weren't so smooth.

According to the calculator my bow spine rating is 50.5 and arrow 64.2. So to get them closer I can increase point weight to 150. Does that sound like a better combination?

[MarjorieStevens]

Hi there, thanks for this great advice.

[Clint Moronko]

Not bad

[Zoomaster]

I just got my first ever bow, a Mathews switchback xt getting great lessons from a friend and not doing to bad. Any recommendations on arrows?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

[DRT]

Originally Posted by Zoomaster

I just got my first ever bow, a Mathews switchback xt getting great lessons from a friend and not doing to bad. Any recommendations on arrows?

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

Hey Zoo buddy this is a sticky from the Traditional section. Dedicated to the self, long and recurve bow shooting community. Post this in the Around the Campfire section and you'll get more ideas than you can shake an arrow shaft at. Good hunting.

[Slambo]

Main thing when getting started, go with a lighter poundage than you think.