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Old 03-10-2012, 03:00 PM   #1
bassmatt72
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Default restoring a recurve

This is txfireguy2003"s 1970-72 Fred Bear Kodiak Magnum 45#@28".Name:  100_1411.JPG
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Size:  45.0 KBWhen I got it there was no string and a crack below the riser insert and the top limb was twisted just a little. First thing I did was straighten the limb by taking a wet towel and heating it in microwave till steaming, wrapped it around limb where twisted and let it sit for a little. After 3-5 minutes or so I removed towel and "over twisted" the limb in the opposite direction and held it till cool. Seemed to fix the twist. I then made a string for it and strung it and shot it several times and made sure the crack didn't expand any more. Keep watching I'll post as work is done.
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:16 PM   #2
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Thanks for the heads up in the trad forum. I'll be watching this one.
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:26 PM   #3
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As ya'll can see the finish has a ton of crackling in it and will need to be totally removed, to do that means a lot of sanding!! Attachment 319000

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Size:  39.2 KBOh, a disclaimer. I did quite a bit of research and reading before I started and I'm a rookie at this. Anyhow, too many curves and we don't want to sand into the fiberglass too deep nor take too much off of the sides of the limbs so power tools are more risk than benefit. Its all hand sanding!! If we get into the fiberglass too deep or take too much off the sides of the limbs it could affect the poundage, tillering, or even cause limb twist.I'm using some foam insulation board scrap to pad the limbs on the work bench. I'm using 100grit to get the old finish off then going over it one time with 220 to get it a little smoother.Name:  100_1478.JPG
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Size:  38.9 KBthis pic shows just how yellowed the riser has gotten. I didn't get many pics. of the sanding.

Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:54 PM   #4
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I found a guy that reproduces decals for older bows and ordered a set to replace these. Txfireguys bow was also missing the coin and I found where to order replacements, got one on the way. I removed the riser insert and buffed it clean then sprayed clear coat on it.Name:  100_1474.JPG
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Size:  38.3 KBI'll use a 5 minute epoxy to replace the insert when the time comes. Here you can see where I have used some commercial grade super glue to start the repair of the crack.Name:  100_1488.JPG
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Size:  32.9 KB I'll give it a day to cure the use a scraper to remove excess glue and repeat the process two more times.

Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:02 PM   #5
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Looking great so far.
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:06 PM   #6
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Wow man, like I said earlier, when you offered to refurbish it, I just figured you'd sand it a little and spray a coat of clear on it. You're going way above and beyond! Those pics of the riser face all sanded and white have me excited! Pretty nice for a bow my brother FOUND in his garage!

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Old 03-10-2012, 04:09 PM   #7
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More in just a bit.....
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Old 03-10-2012, 04:37 PM   #8
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Ok, Like I said I didn't take many pics of the sanding, just lots of dust and sore fingers!!! Up to this point I guess I have about 10-12 hours into it. I have finish sanding and really should wait till a warmer dryer day to clear coat it but I couldn't wait!!! I had to at least put one quick coat on the riser to see what its going to look like! Yes, I'm using Minwax Helsman Spar Urethane from a rattle can. Some guys don't like rattle cans but I seem to have really good luck with them, if I need to I'll get the spray rig out and use my detailing spray gun. I'll put three light coats on over a period of 8-10 minutes and let it cure, then I'll wet sand with 2000 grit, repeat at least five times on the riser then four more times on the entire bow. Last pics for the night and it will be three days before I can do any more on it. Sanded riser. Name:  100_1489.JPG
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Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:05 PM   #9
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Wow! That looks excellent! I can't wait to see it all finished!
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:53 PM   #10
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Great job I've done a few and have another in the work I've never pulled the insert thou.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:01 PM   #11
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Looking good !! I like to see restorations like this.

They sure did pick out nice wood for the risers.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:06 PM   #12
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Restless, I used fine thread all thread as an extension. If you heat the all thread and then put it in the insert, then let it transfer the heat it helps to loosen the old adhesive.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:07 PM   #13
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Sticbow, I've never gotten around to building that recurve yet. I just finally got my hands on a good bandsaw to use. So, after this restoration I'm going to get busy on building my first! I guess I really like this kind of project, I already have three more to work on from another buddy! Two bears and one Stemmler!

Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-10-2012 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 03-10-2012, 06:57 PM   #14
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I wouldn't pull an insert unless I intended to plug it. I haven't had an issue with sanding around it by hand, to much chance of damaging the fiberglass. I love those Bear bows BTW and i used to find a few camo painted bows on the auction site to refinish but not so much anymore. I have a 1960 Kodiak on the work bench now but the finish had all but rotted off or I would have left that one alone
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:01 PM   #15
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I can understand what you mean about damaging the fiberglass. I wanted to pull this one because of the crack and not knowing how bad it was.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:02 PM   #16
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looks like a 1971 or '72 I have a Kodiak hunter that same year Bear put some pretty wood in the riser's for those models, I've done the rattle can on some as well.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #17
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Good luck it's looking good. You may try Tru oil on your next one. It drys fast and is a good product for finish. I have tried most all of them on selfbows.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:08 PM   #18
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Cracks on the riser just get Loktited and sanded the KISS principal is my mantra.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:08 PM   #19
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selfbow, I've been reading about tru oil, but seeing how this is someone elses bow I thought I'd use something I was familiar with. I just might try it on the next one which will be mine.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:09 PM   #20
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Tru oil is good stuff.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:14 PM   #21
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Cool thread. Thanks for posting.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:28 PM   #22
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I'll do a good coat of super glue then couple hours later do a 400 grit sanding job on it. especially if the wood has visible pores, maybe another caot and sanding if they weren't filled the first time.
It'll reduce the dimpling in the finish so I can do less coats.
Tru-oil is a special finish. it's worth the time.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:47 PM   #23
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That's nice... Thank you for taking the time to share.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:49 PM   #24
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I'll have some more pics around the middle of next week!
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:06 PM   #25
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very nice bassmatt. I got one you can do if you want to tinker with it. (I came to your house the other day to pick up likes barrels. I live down the road.pm me if you are interacts and how much you would charge)
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:54 PM   #26
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PM sent to texasgamehunter
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:47 PM   #27
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I managed to slip out in the shop for a few minutes between morning a evening church, wet sanded and second coat applied, no pics. I'm going to check it after church tonight and might get another sanding a coat put on. I'll get pics tonight.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:06 PM   #28
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Well the weather was warm enough today that I was able to put two sets of three clear coats on with wet sanding in between. Before sandingName:  100_1505.JPG
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:13 PM   #29
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Last coats for today, this is a total of three light coats over ten minutes with wet sanding in between three times(nine light coats and three sandings)Name:  100_1515.JPG
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Two more sets of clear coats and sandings on riser then three sets on entire bow(limbs and riser) decals added between first and second coat on limbs. I'll re-install the coin and rewrite the serial # before I do any more clear coats.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:20 PM   #30
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I filled the crack on the limb with a comercial grade super glue let it dry then scraped the extra glue off, did this three times. I know where it was and I'm having a hard time seeing it!Name:  100_1468.JPG
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The shine on the limbs is just over spray, it will all be sanded off before I clear coat the limbs. Txfireguy, are you sure you don't want to give...er, ah, sell this bow to me?
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:54 PM   #31
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Wow, do you do this for a living? Very nice work.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:57 PM   #32
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Nice job!!! Looking good!
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #33
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You should consider taking in work your good bro,
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:38 PM   #34
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Matt, I MIGHT have sold that bow to you, heck I might have GIVEN it to you a year ago, but after what you've done....NO WAY I'M LETTING THAT THING GO! It was given to me by my brother, so there's so value there, then add to that the fact that a good friend refinished it and got it back to shooting shape for me.....I can't let it go. If I ever do change my mind, like for example, if I find that I can't shoot traditional to save my life, you'll be the first to know.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:02 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txfireguy2003 View Post
Matt, I MIGHT have sold that bow to you, heck I might have GIVEN it to you a year ago, but after what you've done....NO WAY I'M LETTING THAT THING GO! It was given to me by my brother, so there's so value there, then add to that the fact that a good friend refinished it and got it back to shooting shape for me.....I can't let it go. If I ever do change my mind, like for example, if I find that I can't shoot traditional to save my life, you'll be the first to know.

I don't think I could let something like that go either...
Great job! In the refurb. Work on your boat too!
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:42 AM   #36
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sweet
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:26 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Meloni View Post
Wow, do you do this for a living? Very nice work.
No, I don't do this for a living, just for fun. My experiance with refinishing comes from working on pianos. Dad is a piano tuner and I do that on the days I'm not working at the fire dept.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Restless View Post
You should consider taking in work your good bro,
I've thought about it??? Might work on a few for TBH'ers if anybody wanted me to???
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:45 PM   #39
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Well, you saw the old Damon-Howatt Hi-Speed hanging in the garage when you came and got the boat--so maybe you've gotten me in the mind to do the same thing. It has a pretty good divot in the palm swell area from my wedding band. But, I think I could work that out pretty well.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:21 PM   #40
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Dustoffer I might be able to help you out. Let me do this one then I have three others(one for a hunting buddy up here and then my two) first. I'll keep you in mind. If your ever through Temple we'll get lunch!
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:27 PM   #41
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Well--I did something that really surprised me this afternoon after I read through your thread again--I strung the recurve and went out and shot a few times. It is really strange after shooting a compound for 37 years to pick up a recurve.

The thing that impressed me the most was the ultra-light weight. Of course, shooting the carbons and aluminums spined for my 65-lb Hoyt aren't a good indicator of arrow flight either. But, it was a good trip down memory lane--killed my first buck with it, in Alabama--

And, next trip through Temple I'll give you a shout--
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:26 AM   #42
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Incredible Job! It's looking Great.
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:52 PM   #43
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Thanks to all thats been checking out this thread! I'll have a couple more pics tonight.
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Old 03-13-2012, 02:33 PM   #44
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great job
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:04 PM   #45
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Sorry, no pics tonight. I have some family(in laws) health things to deal with this week so I don't know when I'll get more pics? It might be tomm night?
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Old 03-14-2012, 07:11 AM   #46
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Looking great.
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Old 03-14-2012, 09:05 PM   #47
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Well, things are going good with my inlaws so I had a little time today for the bow. I did two light coats on the entire bow yesterday, and finished a test board to sample pens on for the lettering. These aren't the best pics. bit it is the entire bow sanded, then two light coats on it and my first disappointment... The crack is now visible after I put the clear coat on it..Bummer! Its solid on its repair and everything else is going good so I'm not going to go back, it will just have to be there. The two pens that I got seem to work well and not run when I apply the clear coat(the smeared ink was me rubbing it the first time to see if it was dry). Name:  100_1523.JPG
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:59 PM   #48
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Made it out into the shop for a short time tonight. I polished the reproduction coin, wet sanded the entire bow, rewrote the serial #, put on the reproduction decals(I didn't do a very good job on them but it will have to do) and clear coated the entire bow with two coats. Next steps, wet sand and put in coin and insert and clear coat bow two more times. I'll then use a rubbing compound and hand buff then an auto wax and wax the entire bow, install the string and shoot. The next pictures after these will be the finished bow!!!!Name:  100_1542.JPG
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,
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:04 PM   #49
Greywolf in Hawaii
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Island of Oahu
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Can ya send me a couple of those black pens, nice writing BTW
I'll PM ya my address and some money to cover the cost.
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Old 03-18-2012, 12:52 PM   #50
bassmatt72
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Belton TX
Hunt In: Any place I can.
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Sticbow, Sure will! Sending PM. I went out in shop before work,no pics. but I installed insert and coin and wet sanded and two coats on entire bow. getting really close!!!! I might finish it tomm.!!!

Last edited by bassmatt72; 03-18-2012 at 12:59 PM.
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