Trailering a Side by Side

[Hart8]

I've pulled a single axle 6.5×12 trailer a whole bunch of miles.I don't drag a tandem unless I absolutely have to.

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[brushtrooper]

I have many customers that come in to buy a trailer for reasons as yours. One of the many mistakes I see is that they do not buy a trailer long enough. The UTV is 9', so they want a 10' trailer. This does not give you enough room to distribute the load so it will pull good, then add bags of corn, ice chests etc and it really becomes dangerous. I have many that state a tandem is better or that it is better than a single axle if you have a flat. Sure you can single out a tandem but keeping a spare on trailer is the best thing. If you do not think you will carry more than a single axle trailer capacity, then go single axle. There is less to maintain over the life of the trailer. I did not read all the replies but here is what I would suggest. I would go with a single axle 72" or 77" or 83" wide x 14' long with a bi-fold gate or pull out ramps. Make sure you have tiedown bars or d-rings added in for securement points, better yet stake pockets and rub rail but that would be a special order option. I would go with a pipe or square tube top, not angle iron, angle iron will cut a strap if you go across and down to frame for securement point. I would go with a trailer that has a sleeve lock(bulldog) style or Demco coupler. I would want a set back 7-8k drop leg jack, the set back allows you to open tail gate of truck when trailer is hooked up. Make sure you have a spare tire mount, I like center front myself. I would want one with a full wrap tongue and the heavier diamond plate fenders. I like the bolt on fenders vs welded, easy to replace if dented/damaged. Make sure you get one with a 3,500lb axle and 15" tires. Make sure you have crossmembers on at least 24" centers and that the boards are screwed down vs laid in and flatbar welded on each capping them for securement. Most trailer MFG are powdercoating trailers vs painting. I think all come with LED lights now. I would want a sealed wiring harness vs. the 4 strands strung on bottom of trailer, also make sure the steel underneath is painted/powder coated. If the boards are painted, thats red flag for me as that generally means the steel underneath is not painted. I would try to make sure it was primed and powder coated. Some charge extra for priming others don't. Everything I mentioned is an upgrade for most mfg but this will give you a trailer that will last many years. There a lot of options such as expanded metal sides, taller sides, dove tail, trailer brakes and so on. I like the 8ply 15" tires vs the 4 or 6 ply. Coupler, jack, full wrap vs a-frame tongue, spare tire mount, securement points, side rails, rear ramp, 4' gate or bifold gate, axle size and brand of axle, leaf spring suspension vs torsion,tire size and # of plys, paint/powder coating--these are all the things to pay attention to when comparing trailers and prices

[bboswell]

I have many customers that come in to buy a trailer for reasons as yours. One of the many mistakes I see is that they do not buy a trailer long enough. The UTV is 9', so they want a 10' trailer. This does not give you enough room to distribute the load so it will pull good, then add bags of corn, ice chests etc and it really becomes dangerous. I have many that state a tandem is better or that it is better than a single axle if you have a flat. Sure you can single out a tandem but keeping a spare on trailer is the best thing. If you do not think you will carry more than a single axle trailer capacity, then go single axle. There is less to maintain over the life of the trailer. I did not read all the replies but here is what I would suggest. I would go with a single axle 72" or 77" or 83" wide x 14' long with a bi-fold gate or pull out ramps. Make sure you have tiedown bars or d-rings added in for securement points, better yet stake pockets and rub rail but that would be a special order option. I would go with a pipe or square tube top, not angle iron, angle iron will cut a strap if you go across and down to frame for securement point. I would go with a trailer that has a sleeve lock(bulldog) style or Demco coupler. I would want a set back 7-8k drop leg jack, the set back allows you to open tail gate of truck when trailer is hooked up. Make sure you have a spare tire mount, I like center front myself. I would want one with a full wrap tongue and the heavier diamond plate fenders. I like the bolt on fenders vs welded, easy to replace if dented/damaged. Make sure you get one with a 3,500lb axle and 15" tires. Make sure you have crossmembers on at least 24" centers and that the boards are screwed down vs laid in and flatbar welded on each capping them for securement. Most trailer MFG are powdercoating trailers vs painting. I think all come with LED lights now. I would want a sealed wiring harness vs. the 4 strands strung on bottom of trailer, also make sure the steel underneath is painted/powder coated. If the boards are painted, thats red flag for me as that generally means the steel underneath is not painted. I would try to make sure it was primed and powder coated. Some charge extra for priming others don't. Everything I mentioned is an upgrade for most mfg but this will give you a trailer that will last many years. There a lot of options such as expanded metal sides, taller sides, dove tail, trailer brakes and so on. I like the 8ply 15" tires vs the 4 or 6 ply. Coupler, jack, full wrap vs a-frame tongue, spare tire mount, securement points, side rails, rear ramp, 4' gate or bifold gate, axle size and brand of axle, leaf spring suspension vs torsion,tire size and # of plys, paint/powder coating--these are all the things to pay attention to when comparing trailers and prices

Finally a sensible post on this.

[sharpstick35]

10 ft is kinda short for my pioneer not enough tongue weight.


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all of the SxS weight is in the rear so they tow easier on a single axle trailer if you load them backwards.

[mmlreiner]

I picked up my Mule pro MX last week. I hauled it home on my 12ft trailer and it (as usual) road great all the way which was a 2 hour drive. OP if you’re looking for a very capable, smaller UTV I’d look at this one. I replaced my ATV with this after doing extensive research and driving virtually everything. My only complaint is it’s a little bit louder than I’d like but I’ll eventually fix that.

Trailer is 6.5 ft wide which helps and let me pack a few things for the trips too and from the lease.


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[Quackerbox]

I have many customers that come in to buy a trailer for reasons as yours. One of the many mistakes I see is that they do not buy a trailer long enough. The UTV is 9', so they want a 10' trailer. This does not give you enough room to distribute the load so it will pull good, then add bags of corn, ice chests etc and it really becomes dangerous. I have many that state a tandem is better or that it is better than a single axle if you have a flat. Sure you can single out a tandem but keeping a spare on trailer is the best thing. If you do not think you will carry more than a single axle trailer capacity, then go single axle. There is less to maintain over the life of the trailer. I did not read all the replies but here is what I would suggest. I would go with a single axle 72" or 77" or 83" wide x 14' long with a bi-fold gate or pull out ramps. Make sure you have tiedown bars or d-rings added in for securement points, better yet stake pockets and rub rail but that would be a special order option. I would go with a pipe or square tube top, not angle iron, angle iron will cut a strap if you go across and down to frame for securement point. I would go with a trailer that has a sleeve lock(bulldog) style or Demco coupler. I would want a set back 7-8k drop leg jack, the set back allows you to open tail gate of truck when trailer is hooked up. Make sure you have a spare tire mount, I like center front myself. I would want one with a full wrap tongue and the heavier diamond plate fenders. I like the bolt on fenders vs welded, easy to replace if dented/damaged. Make sure you get one with a 3,500lb axle and 15" tires. Make sure you have crossmembers on at least 24" centers and that the boards are screwed down vs laid in and flatbar welded on each capping them for securement. Most trailer MFG are powdercoating trailers vs painting. I think all come with LED lights now. I would want a sealed wiring harness vs. the 4 strands strung on bottom of trailer, also make sure the steel underneath is painted/powder coated. If the boards are painted, thats red flag for me as that generally means the steel underneath is not painted. I would try to make sure it was primed and powder coated. Some charge extra for priming others don't. Everything I mentioned is an upgrade for most mfg but this will give you a trailer that will last many years. There a lot of options such as expanded metal sides, taller sides, dove tail, trailer brakes and so on. I like the 8ply 15" tires vs the 4 or 6 ply. Coupler, jack, full wrap vs a-frame tongue, spare tire mount, securement points, side rails, rear ramp, 4' gate or bifold gate, axle size and brand of axle, leaf spring suspension vs torsion,tire size and # of plys, paint/powder coating--these are all the things to pay attention to when comparing trailers and prices

Dang, you described my trailer almost identically.

I wanted bi fold ramp but the builder had apparently been Sued over some idiot that cut his fingers off in his ramp. I was just gonna build one at a later date but havent done it

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[kmitchl]

Get the 12 ft. Much easier to balance the load and space for ice chest/other stuff.

[Herbie]

I used a 5X10 for my ‘05 Polaris 500. It worked fine. I would back it on and use an adjustable hitch to lock it dorm to the trailer frame rail. Then use trailer to fill feeders, set stands, etc. behind the Polaris.

[tdwinklr]

Not a problem at all. I have a good friend that is what he uses. He has a Ranger and uses a single axle trailer without any problem at all

I agree but would go with the 12', gives you more room to haul some misc. things with it as long as the weight allows it.

[RascalArms]

A single axle is fine Carey but I’d go with at least a 12’ length if you plan on having any extra room for feed or gear in general.
I have a 12’ single axle Big Tex that’s 6.5’ wide and it’s pretty tight as it is. There wouldn’t be any extra space with just a 10’. It pulls really well though...the PowerStroke doesn’t even know it’s back there [emoji12]

[Blank]

My two seat Kawasaki Teryx fits exactly on a 10 foot trailer with the ramp raised, but I have to remove the spare tire to do it. That is why it has a hitch mount spare bracket. A twelve or fourteen foot trailer would be much more useful, and allow hauling other stuff.

[MasonCo.]

http://ranchkingtexas.com/?product=wt-hd-series-gvwr-4000

Heavy Duty- Can haul your buggy, corn, and a cooler filled with ice and go 80 down I-10 without having to worry about anything.

[drwilliams]

http://ranchkingtexas.com/?product=w...ries-gvwr-4000



Heavy Duty- Can haul your buggy, corn, and a cooler filled with ice and go 80 down I-10 without having to worry about anything.

I have 2 of these Ranch King trailers. 14' double axle with gate and a 16'. Both are well built trailers and you want go wrong buying one. They are built down in Bellville if my memory serves me correctly.

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[TX03RUBI]

http://ranchkingtexas.com/?product=w...ries-gvwr-4000

Heavy Duty- Can haul your buggy, corn, and a cooler filled with ice and go 80 down I-10 without having to worry about anything.

My only problem with that type of trailer is the jack. Those things are crap off road. If you only drag it down pavement or clean cut well kept dirt roads theyre fine. The second you get to a rut or elevation change in the road they hang down too much and drag. Ive had to replace mine with a swivel mount, as well as a handful of others for guys that have had the same issues. Some have the removeable footing on the jack, but thats a big PITA when in mud etc. The side mounted swivel jacks are much better for any light dutr trailer that will see off road use.

[mmlreiner]

My only problem with that type of trailer is the jack. Those things are crap off road. If you only drag it down pavement or clean cut well kept dirt roads theyre fine. The second you get to a rut or elevation change in the road they hang down too much and drag. Ive had to replace mine with a swivel mount, as well as a handful of others for guys that have had the same issues. Some have the removeable footing on the jack, but thats a big PITA when in mud etc. The side mounted swivel jacks are much better for any light dutr trailer that will see off road use.

Agree 100% about the swivel jack. Got one on mine and I love it.


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