Building a shop

[BearkatHunter]

I'm going to breaking ground on a new shop at the farm in 2019. It will mainly be used for farm machinery repair and metal fabrication. Most likely will have a reloading room/storage, and an office. I'm sure me and the kids will use it a lot for FFA agricultural mechanics projects too. Yes, it will have a concrete foundation.

I was thinking of a 60' wide x 60' long with a 20' covered/ concrete area running the length of the building.

What are some must haves that you would advise me on?

- Insulation?
- Doors?
- Ventilation?
- Others?

This building will not have AC or heat. I will finish out the plumbing and electrical myself.

[txwhitetail]

To me spray insulation is a must and not much more than rolled.

Good power spread all over.

LED lights and plenty of them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kcmarullo]

Bathroom

[twistedmidnite]

A beam in the top for a trolly mounted hoist. I use mine constantly

[RWB]

A beam in the top for a trolly mounted hoist. I use mine constantly

How wide is your shop? Would love to put one in mine but I am 50 wide.

[reedkj]

insulation, floor drain and lots of outlets and OH lights

[Hix]

Bath room, floor drain(s), indoor water hose, insulated hi lift doors, air compressor slab and awning outside, gutters, insulation, beer fridge


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[twistedmidnite]

How wide is your shop? Would love to put one in mine but I am 50 wide.

It's 40x50 but the beam runs in the peak of the roof longways from upright beam to beam

[postman]

Build it half again as big as you think you need. You can never build one big enough. Trust me.

[RWB]

It's 40x50 but the beam runs in the peak of the roof longways from upright beam to beam

So you span 50 ft with the beam? If so any idea what size the beam is?

[Saddlehorse]

I put my overhead in one 20 x 40 bay ran 4” eye beam from corner to corner then put another on a trolley so it runs the length of the 40’
Doors on each end sure keeps it cool in the summer
Position shop with doors on north and south sides to take advantage of the breeze if possible

[Worksalot]

Rip 2x4s down to 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” and install on the top inside edge of the concrete forms. We screwed them in from the backside if possible making sure to clamp them down in position first. Make sure they are perfectly flush with the top of form boards. If you mark the positions of the roll up doors on the forms, you can stop the 1 1/2” boards even where the sheet metal will stop at the door openings. The benefit of these boards and resulting lip in the concrete is that the sheet metal will rest on this lip. Seems to seel better once insulation is installed inside. Makes for a neater appearance in my opinion.

[gonehuntin]

12x12 doors and 20 foot tall side walls. Compressor closet with drain in the slab. Plugs every 6 foot along walls, ceiling plugs and or boxes for ceiling fans, retractable trouble light, retractable extension cord, heater. Pull down air hose reels. Large shop sink with water heater.

[Randy Madden]

Rip 2x4s down to 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” and install on the top inside edge of the concrete forms. We screwed them in from the backside if possible making sure to clamp them down in position first. Make sure they are perfectly flush with the top of form boards. If you mark the positions of the roll up doors on the forms, you can stop the 1 1/2” boards even where the sheet metal will stop at the door openings. The benefit of these boards and resulting lip in the concrete is that the sheet metal will rest on this lip. Seems to seel better once insulation is installed inside. Makes for a neater appearance in my opinion.

This is Standard protocol for any concrete contractor

[Randy Madden]

Good tip if you’re doing the concrete yourself though