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Edwards Plateau Food Plots

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    Edwards Plateau Food Plots

    Does anyone currently plant fall food plots in the Edwards Plateau area? I'm looking to see what kind of fall food plots you guys are planting, how they are growing, etc. and to see what kind of success you all are having without having to irrigate.

    #2
    In Menard County we always planted wheat/oats/turnips.

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      #3
      I would like to know for spring....and fall

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        #4
        Originally posted by BrandonA View Post
        In Menard County we always planted wheat/oats/turnips.
        How did you plant this (i.e. Grain drill or disk and broadcast)? What kind of soil and how did it fair? What size and was it ever overgrazed? Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to get some answers for our area bc we are also in Menard County.

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          #5
          I'm also curious to see if there is any way to improve shallow rocky soils to improve/increase native habitat. I was thinking of cutting cedars and letting them lay on th ground to provide protection from erosion but also act as a grazing exclosure to help plants get established. I also thought that over time these dead cedars will not only keep the soil cooler, but they will decompose and improve the soil structure. Has anyone ever done this? We have some really good soils on our property, but I wanted to try to help improve the areas with poor soils and lots of cedar.

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            #6
            Originally posted by bgleaton View Post
            I'm also curious to see if there is any way to improve shallow rocky soils to improve/increase native habitat. I was thinking of cutting cedars and letting them lay on th ground to provide protection from erosion but also act as a grazing exclosure to help plants get established. I also thought that over time these dead cedars will not only keep the soil cooler, but they will decompose and improve the soil structure. Has anyone ever done this? We have some really good soils on our property, but I wanted to try to help improve the areas with poor soils and lots of cedar.
            I would do some investigating, cedar and juniper release a plant toxin to keep undergrowth from competing for space and water usage. I don't know how long it last after a plant is cut though, also cedar wood takes forever to break down, that's why it's used for fence post. Mesquite on the other hand is a legume so it will fertilize the soil and breaks down relatively fast, just don't get to greedy when cutting, even though it's considered a pestilence, mesquite is an important food source in spring by putting on tender leaves even during drought conditions, then again in summer with a bean crop.

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              #7
              We had 4 plots... 2 acre, 5 acre, 5 acre, and 20 acre. all had decent soil for Menard. As with any plot in good rain years the deer couldn't eat it out. In yrs with little rain they put a hurting on it. We fertilized with something like a 20-10-10 at 100 lbs per acre.

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                #8
                We have considered it but with the soil quality (or lack of) I think we would just grow rocks. Plus have heard from surrounding ranches that unless you have a very big plot, the animals will eat it bare in no time. Too many exotics (if there is such a thing)

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by The General View Post
                  We have considered it but with the soil quality (or lack of) I think we would just grow rocks. Plus have heard from surrounding ranches that unless you have a very big plot, the animals will eat it bare in no time. Too many exotics (if there is such a thing)

                  Our place in Menard was pretty much all rock. Over the year granddad removed most out of the fields but dang there were still a bunch. Oats and wheat did well. never had to deal with exotics.

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                    #10
                    Best thing to do with the cedar is use it as an erosion barrier. Best along gentle slopes or areas that are prone to erosion. The "tannin" or oil in cedar does "inhibit" (not stop) growth of other species. Best thing to improve soil in that area is keep it first. Little disturbance as possible, improve grass density - mowing, lightly fertilizing. Oh and of course rain in case you can control that!

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                      #11
                      We did oats, turnips, winter wheat, and another mixed bag with peas and clover. We disc'd everything in and both plots were fantastic. We fertilized the soil 2 months prior. Looking forward to doing it again. The deer ate it down pretty good but did not wipe it out. I'll have to post a pic later from my iPad. Looked like the 9th hole at The golf course down my sendero this year.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by bgleaton View Post
                        I'm also curious to see if there is any way to improve shallow rocky soils to improve/increase native habitat. I was thinking of cutting cedars and letting them lay on th ground to provide protection from erosion but also act as a grazing exclosure to help plants get established. I also thought that over time these dead cedars will not only keep the soil cooler, but they will decompose and improve the soil structure. Has anyone ever done this? We have some really good soils on our property, but I wanted to try to help improve the areas with poor soils and lots of cedar.
                        Cutting cedar and letting it lay will do exactly as you said. It acts as a grazing exclosure to cattle which will allow beneficial plants to thrive ungrazed. On our property we will see Little Bluestem do really well growing up through the cedar slash. Depending on weather, it'll take 1-3 years for the dead cedars(actually junipers) to drop their needles. The cut cedar slash takes a long time to break down, but it will eventually break down and end up being flat on the ground. Now, I hear people talking all the time about how great brush piles are for wildlife. Unless you are referring to skunks, rats, and song birds then that isn't very accurate. It is much more beneficial to cut them and let them lay on the ground, even though it is unsightly. We are located in Mason County and try to cut as much cedar a year as we can.

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                          #13
                          I just know that if we were to remove the cedars and like them up, the soil would get way too hot in summer time and kill whatever started to grow. Here is a pretty neat article about using the "blanket method", which is cutting cedars and letting them lay on the soil to help keep the soil cooler and also protect new browse and forbs until they become established:

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by bgleaton View Post
                            I just know that if we were to remove the cedars and like them up, the soil would get way too hot in summer time and kill whatever started to grow. Here is a pretty neat article about using the "blanket method", which is cutting cedars and letting them lay on the soil to help keep the soil cooler and also protect new browse and forbs until they become established:

                            http://www.nokeslandscapedesign.com/...ml?linkid=5383
                            I don't know about all the cooling thing. I know that when cedars are cleared and burned the grass come back and take off!!! Letting them lay would be for other reasons but not cooling

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                              #15
                              We now use our cedar slash as fuel for extremely hot prescribed burns. I cut them and let them lay, and then 1-3 years later I will burn out those areas with a prescribed fire. We have had excellent results, and the grass and forb response is phenomenal. I will be happy to share some pictures of how the land responded on this thread, or I can PM them to you if you are interested. These type of burns are not for everyone, but they sure do meet our objectives.

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