Weight-forward arrows, teach me

[lovemylegacy]

Ok, yall teach me what ya know about weight forward arrows. No info is insignificant.

For the record I shoot Beman ICS, which I have been very satisfied with, however if there is room for improvement, I would like to explore that avenue.

I might have questions that might seem silly or dumb, but bear with me please.

Thanx Calvin

[muddyfuzzy]

Well the possibilities are pretty endless. A good starting point is to have a gross arrow weight target, that will start to let you get an idea of what shaft to use based off things like draw weight, draw length, tip weight and the overall aggressiveness of the bow you are shooting. Once you have an idea of a target gross weight you can start to look at arrow length and spine selection for the best results. Its not rocket science and you don't need to order a bunch of different weight tips to get flight. Though the process you may very well see better flight, specifically with fixed blade heads, when you start getting north of around 15%.

Do you have any specific questions you are looking to have answered?

[lovemylegacy]

Yes muddyfuzzy, is accuracy better, more penetration without increasing arrow weight? With an increased FOC is there more chance of arrow splintering?

The reason Im looking is eventually my Bemans will eventually be discontinued. Looking for a replacement that is an improvement.

[Pushbutton2]

Two threads come to mind
FOC Increase and Time for Adult Arrows

Have you heard of Dr Ashby? If not, you might find his research into Arrow Penetration factors interesting.

@muddyfuzzy, in my opinion,is also a wealth of knowledge.

[lovemylegacy]

Two threads come to mind
FOC Increase and Time for Adult Arrows

Have you heard of Dr Ashby? If not, you might find his research into Arrow Penetration factors interesting.

@muddyfuzzy, in my opinion,is also a wealth of knowledge.

Yes, I have read his stuff. I will look at those threads. Thanx.

[Pushbutton2]

Yes, I have read his stuff. I will look at those threads. Thanx.

[emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303]

[Sleepy]

Muddyfuzzy pretty much explained it. The sky is the limit really.

I’m a 28.5” draw length, so I’m in the happy medium when it comes to speeds due to draw length. Although the I know the heavier, the better, I still don’t want to lob a 600 grain arrow in there. I still want good trajectory.

That being the case, I just built a 485 grain arrow that’s still hitting the 270fps mark. It has just north of 20% FOC with a 100 grain SS insert and 125 grain head. Trajectory is still good and it will have enough momentum to punch through pretty much anything I’ll be hunting.

Decide what it is you want first, and then base your build off that.

Download the QSpine app and put your bow specs in. Then play around with different shafts and point/insert weights. It will give you your Velocity/KE/Momentum/FOC numbers. These numbers usually end up pretty dang close.

Be careful if you start building your own. It’s a little addicting

[lovemylegacy]

Im in the same boat as you, 28" draw. I also went down in draw weight, 50#. Iam basically doing this because I know my Bemans are probably gonna be discontinued, so if Im gonna change, I figured I would try to improve someway, but I don't want to increase arrow weight or draw weight. Weight forward arrows are the only thing I could come up with.

Sleepy, I am interested in what draw weight you are pulling

[muddyfuzzy]

Weight-forward arrows, teach me

Yes muddyfuzzy, is accuracy better, more penetration without increasing arrow weight? With an increased FOC is there more chance of arrow splintering?

The reason Im looking is eventually my Bemans will eventually be discontinued. Looking for a replacement that is an improvement.

Man, this how I see it. You can increase the FOC all you want but at the end of the day mass weight drives penetration. So let’s say you have a total weight of 500 grains you are trying to cap. I can build a 500 grain arrow at 12%, 15%, 17% and 19% relatively easily between two spines using varying lengths and added weight. And all else being equal the former will always outperform the later relative to the % FOC. The question becomes what do you want to do? I would never run a less than optimal setup just to hit a magical number of weight or % FOC so I don’t get too wrapped up in the specs anymore, just the results.

By the numbers and physics of it all the higher foc arrow is generally more forgiving if it’s set up properly. Increasing FOC makes more effective use of fletching influence so you get better steering off the rear of the arrow. This is a big help with fixed blade heads imo. There is no structural detriment to running higher weight/FOC, my experience has been the opposite. Running a stiffer spine has increased the cross sectional area of my arrow and made it more durable than a more conventional approach.


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[lovemylegacy]

Ok, thanx. Appreciate the info. Time for a little fun I suppose.

[Sleepy]

Im in the same boat as you, 28" draw. I also went down in draw weight, 50#. Iam basically doing this because I know my Bemans are probably gonna be discontinued, so if Im gonna change, I figured I would try to improve someway, but I don't want to increase arrow weight or draw weight. Weight forward arrows are the only thing I could come up with.

Sleepy, I am interested in what draw weight you are pulling

Both bows hitting those numbers are at 66lbs and 69lbs.

Keep in mind when building FOC, you need to pay attention to the GPI of the shaft. A shaft with 8 GPI will be much easier to get the FOC up over a shaft with 10 GPI, using the same tip weight. The 8 GPI shaft will have a higher FOC but a lower TAW. Opposite with the 10 GPI shaft.

You also need to keep in mind the spine. If you really want to throw some weight on the end, you will need to spine up from your ordinary arrow that’s built with a 20 grain aluminum insert and 100 grain head.

[lovemylegacy]

Both bows hitting those numbers are at 66lbs and 69lbs.

Keep in mind when building FOC, you need to pay attention to the GPI of the shaft. A shaft with 8 GPI will be much easier to get the FOC up over a shaft with 10 GPI, using the same tip weight. The 8 GPI shaft will have a higher FOC but a lower TAW. Opposite with the 10 GPI shaft.

You also need to keep in mind the spine. If you really want to throw some weight on the end, you will need to spine up from your ordinary arrow that’s built with a 20 grain aluminum insert and 100 grain head.

Yessir, an 8gpi arrow is what I use. I am also looking at a dual spined shaft and or a tapered shaft. I have looked into the weight forward shafts, but it seems that is a bogus marketing ploy. Yalls opinions are coveted on the weight forward shafts. It seems to me the only way to get a higher FOC is to build it into the arrow by adding weight. Unless a tapered shaft adds weight to the front of the shaft, which seems logical.

Thanx again, Calvin

[Sleepy]

Yessir, an 8gpi arrow is what I use. I am also looking at a dual spined shaft and or a tapered shaft. I have looked into the weight forward shafts, but it seems that is a bogus marketing ploy. Yalls opinions are coveted on the weight forward shafts. It seems to me the only way to get a higher FOC is to build it into the arrow by adding weight. Unless a tapered shaft adds weight to the front of the shaft, which seems logical.

Thanx again, Calvin

My opinion, just buy a regular shaft. No need for the tapered stuff. Keep it simple. Get it planned out, but your shafts, throw your brass or SS inserts in and a heavier head.

I use Ethics Archery SS Adjustable Static inserts. They are adjustable from 50-100 grains. My opinion though, just build an arrow around a 100 grain insert and 125 grain head and you’ve got a great Texas hunting arrow.

[lovemylegacy]

Well keeping it simple is my thang.

muddyfuzzy, pushbutton2 and Sleepy, thanx for the info. Got something to chew on.

[jds247]

Gold tip velocity is a good standard arrow to build off of.. you can download the pinwheel spine ap for your phone. You have to buy add ons but it's about 6 bucks total..
Regular spine charts are useless when you start adding front weight.. the bow shop kept telling me 300 spine was on the stiff side but through trial and error I ended up with 250 spine and much better grouping.. I shoot 550 grains at 19.5 % foc.