Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Chill R = Spine Monster :)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Originally posted by sambo73 View Post
    Good job. Way to stick to it

    Thanks, I need another good session to get everything in line. By the time I figured out the gremlin yesterday I was so tired my shooting wasn't up to par foe tuning.

    Comment


      #17
      Congrats

      Comment


        #18
        This is just a thought... If you shoot with a finger trigger, try using your thumb and a spacer between your face and the string. I let the first knuckle from the nail of my thumb settle on my jaw, which keeps the torque factor much lower. I don't know if you were doing this already, but I know it helped me a lot

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Maxxisman View Post
          This is just a thought... If you shoot with a finger trigger, try using your thumb and a spacer between your face and the string. I let the first knuckle from the nail of my thumb settle on my jaw, which keeps the torque factor much lower. I don't know if you were doing this already, but I know it helped me a lot

          Shoot a chocolate addiction thumb trigger, but your idea makes sense.

          Comment


            #20
            Ugh well went back this evening and started from scratch. Set centershot to 13/16" and paper tuned with no face contact on string. Nock Left Tear. Took 3 turns off limb bolts. Nock left tear. Return limb bolts. Adjust rested from 1/2" to 1 1/4" in small increments. Nock left tear. Checked clearance, didn't see anything, going to check again in better light tomorrow. I"m really stumped. I really thought I was onto it yesterday, and it may have just been physical and mental exhaustion. I also tried more broadhead tuning with the same results, i.e. none.

            I'm getting close to my wits end. I've googled around various archery forums, and the only thing it could be left is my grip or a bow issue (like a bad limb or something). I take little solace in that I have ruled out spine, center shot, and clearance. I've attached a photo of the tear that I simply can't make go away. The bow has the focus grip on it, anyone have any recommendations on hand placement or any other suggestions?
            Attached Files

            Comment


              #21
              I've been having same trouble hope you get everything fixed. I ended up going with the .300 an it helped alot

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by Fergeris View Post
                I've been having same trouble hope you get everything fixed. I ended up going with the .300 an it helped alot
                I really thought that might be it, but cranking down the limb bolts should rule that out completely as that's almost 8# of draw weight, and there is not way a 340 spine arrow shouldn't tune out of a 62# bow... IMHO. Maybe I"m totally crazy, I'm beginning to think that I"m just insane.

                Comment


                  #23
                  I understand

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Look at the carbon express arrow chart. I breaks down spine base off hard cam, soft cam, draw length, head weight....everything. Much more accurate than easton chart IMO.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Reaper87 View Post
                      Look at the carbon express arrow chart. I breaks down spine base off hard cam, soft cam, draw length, head weight....everything. Much more accurate than easton chart IMO.
                      Valid point and I have used it as well as On Target 2 software. All charts agree that spine is fine for my bow at 65# and at that draw the tear still exists.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        My guess is torque if there is no contact... I had the same problem for a little while last year

                        Comment


                          #27
                          It's a hoyt, they are hard to tune on paper

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by popup_menace View Post
                            It's a hoyt, they are hard to tune on paper

                            It's a tad early to be drinking on a week day ? It's a Mathews Chill R.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              I'll try to get some pics of my grip w the Focus. I think I'd just confuse you if I tried explaining. Lol

                              Comment


                                #30
                                I honestly would just do away with paper tuning. Not trying to be a smarta@@ either. I cannot get my bow to shoot bullet holes through paper. But, it is tuned and will stack 4 blade Muzzy's and FP's together out to 40 yards. For me, and this is just my opinion, paper tuning is the least effective way to properly tune a bow. A good starting point? Sure, but not the final judgement if a bow is tuned. So I don't even bother. When I started learning about bow tuning, I was told/preached to about paper tuning and never could shoot bullet holes. I ended up chasing the same thing you are trying to get it to shoot a perfect hole, then end up totally different when walkback and broadhead tuned. Still have the left tear on paper.

                                My personal guess is that you are just like myself. Get rid of the paper, walkback tune it and then broadhead tune it. I bet you'll be happy(er) with the results.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X