Need help with well and booster pump

[ArcheryNerd]

I am not a Plummer / well guy. I have called a couple well companies and we are “on the list” like a lot of people in the community. I have been working on it and I have learned a lot but I am still having trouble. Any help would be appreciated.

During the freeze we lost power for a couple days and our booster pump froze and cracked. I ordered a sta-rite 1 ½ hp pump that took two weeks to get here. While we were waiting on the sta-rite I used a Harbor Freight Drummond 1hp pump to help us limp along. The Drummond pressure switch would cycle on and off multiple times a second when the system reached 50psi. For a week we just turned in on and off when we needed water. When we got the new pump, the same issue is happening. We did have a bad spring check valve between the booster pump and the pressure tank. I replaced the bad check valve with a flapper style check valve on the suction line for the pump. I put it on the suction line so the pressure switch was between the check valve and pressure tank.

Another note is there is enough pressure from my storage tank to push water through the whole system and I get a steady stream of water from the spin down valve.

Both the Drummond and Sta-Rite pumps acted the same.

I have considered wiring the pump directly to 220 power and turning it on and off at the circuit breaker until I can get the pressure switch figured out.

I added a video of the pump you will see it go crazy at about 40 seconds

Here is what I have done.

• Turned off all the power.
• Drained the system.
• Replaced the pump.
• Moved the check valve from the output line to the suction line. I could blow through both sides of the old check valve.
• Turned the power on
• System got to 50psi and pressure switch went crazy
• Turned power off
• Drained the pressure out of the system
• Let all the air out of the pressure tank. (It was as ~60psi)
• Turned power on
• System to longer to come up to pressure
• System got to 50psi and pressure switch went crazy
• The pressure tank is now @ 30psi and water is lasting a lot longer in the house.

Video of the switch cycling

https://youtu.be/cjI2F9j4qdk

[saintsfan]

Did the original pump have the pressure switch plumbed on the discharge line? I believe you may need to re-install the check valve on the discharge side before the volume tank. This will allow the volume tank to hold pressure w/o the pump.

There should be atleast a high and low pressure setting for the pump. Do you know what the current settings are?

Im in the Bulverde area and have some plumbing parts along with 1" spring check valves. Give me a call if you want to discuss. 979-two hundred thirty six- 5158.

[doright]

I am most likely wrong but it may be not enough air in the pressure tank. Drain the pressure tank and refill it. That has worked for me in the past.

[ArcheryNerd]

So I talked to a well guy and he agreed with doright.
He told me to drain all the water.
Make the psi in the pressure tank 25lbs.
Tighten the pressure switch 4 turns
Start the pump.


saintsfan I moved the check valve from discharge line because the pressure switch was behind the check valve. The old one was a 1" and I can't find another one. If resetting the pressure tank doesn't work I will for sure give you a call and we can try putting the check valve in the discharge line. I REALLY appreciate the offer.

Fingers crossed fella's

[bowhuntertex]

I am most likely wrong but it may be not enough air in the pressure tank. Drain the pressure tank and refill it. That has worked for me in the past.

Most likely your problem here.

[RLhunter]

You might have the check valve facing the wrong direction. From the photo I’m pretty sure the arrow on the check valve needs to be pointing towards the pump. If it is facing the wrong direction the pressure your pump has built up to would instantly be sent back to the bulk storage tank and the pressure switch would tell the pump to come on, then it would instantly build pressure to be satisfied, then start the cycle all over again.
Hope this helps.

[Atfulldraw]

tank pressure should be 2-3 pounds under the cut-on pressure.

if you have a 30/50 pressure switch, that means 27-28 pounds.

The switch should be marked, but they are adjustable - you can watch the gauge to find out where it actually cuts on.

Turn the power off before you adjust it

[ArcheryNerd]

SOLVED!! So the issue was I had a flapper check valve instead of a spring check valve. The flapper check valve was causing a spike in the pressure which resulted in my morning shower...

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kL6JhbIy1RE"]pump disconnects pipe - YouTube[/ame]

I did try putting a spring check valve in the discharge line but that made things worse. The issue there is my pressure switch is attached to my pump so it never built pressure.

After putting the correct check valve in the suction line and pre-charging my pressure tank to 38psi, on the side is said to pre-charge to 38psi,everything seems to be working correctly. I watched it cycle a couple times tonight and then turned the power off for the evening. Tomorrow I will try and fine tune the pressure and bolt the boot pump down.


Thanks every one for your advice. I really appreciate the Green Screen community....