Cutting a Propane Tank - Page 3 - TexasBowhunter.com Community Discussion Forums

Dale Moser · 02-26-2021, 08:38 PM

I underestimated the heat output when it was 17 degrees...

Things are working well. Just need a few adjustments when we can get a welder out here.

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Mike D · 02-26-2021, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dale Moser

I underestimated the heat output when it was 17 degrees...

Things are working well. Just need a few adjustments when we can get a welder out here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Told ya that sucker would get hot!

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Mertzon Man · 02-27-2021, 08:04 AM

Really nice work Dale, I bet that sucker gets hott!

tradtiger · 02-27-2021, 08:59 AM

Very cool! I like the welded chain links for the handle, which should dissipate the heat a bit, but also allow sticking a screw driver or some such through a link to open the door without needing a welding glove.

JES · 02-27-2021, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sackett

Just cut a 250 gallon tank to make a fire pit and a big feeder. Don't ever beleive a tank is empty, even when the Guage says it is, lol. Started removing one of the valves and gas was leaking out so decided to remove the whole valve before my wife pulled in the driveway and ignited something. Had a face shield welding gloves and a Arctic gun case between me and the valve. When that valve came off it felt like a horse kicked the gun case into my chest and the valve shot out a hundred yards from where the tank was. Of course our nest camera caught it all on video. Ended up filling it full of water and all was good. I too used a cut off wheel on a grinder, but I drained the tank by drilling a hole on the opposite side of the valve before I cut the tank.

Poop in pants event!

Glad you are ok Russell, that could have turned out pretty nasty.

JES · 02-27-2021, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dale Moser

I underestimated the heat output when it was 17 degrees...

Things are working well. Just need a few adjustments when we can get a welder out here.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That turned out awesome, betcha can’t get too close to it when it’s fully loaded like that.

Strummer · 02-27-2021, 07:29 PM

Where did you find the tank ?

Texas Grown · 02-28-2021, 10:44 AM

That looks nice n cozy for a cool day!

TexasCanesFan · 02-28-2021, 01:23 PM

Love D Mo projects. Turned out awesome. Nice hangout spot.

Box-R · 02-28-2021, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strummer

Where did you find the tank ?

X2
I'm also looking for a big tank (1000 gallon/6-7ft) size for a field roller proj.

Dale Moser · 02-28-2021, 02:57 PM

It was an old 100 gallon tank that was my grandads, it was too old to have recertified.

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spidermonkey · 02-28-2021, 08:15 PM

Looking good, and toasty, Dale! Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty

SAC · 03-01-2021, 04:22 PM

Dale, do you wish the combustion chamber would be lower relative to the door. I really like this design, just thinking about reloading in an area that small. As opposed to open the door and "drop" it in.

Dale Moser · 03-01-2021, 05:45 PM

No, not really. The design was based on airflow, and doing everything I could to keep it from smoking back out the door when we want to burn it with the door open, or around the door, or air shutter when the door is closed.

To that end, the ash drawer is as low as possible, then the air shutter above that so ash doesn’t get in it. Also so the air shutter is below the combustion area to fuel the fire from underneath and promote complete combustion (less coals/ash, more heat). The door opening is fairly large and easy to load wood into, maybe larger than it looks (I think 10 1/4”WX12” or so y’all). I havnt burned my hand or arm or anything...yet. The upper stiffener on the door is angled up and back, again to push smoke away from the door. If the combustion is happening below the door, then the smoke is going to be “rolling” at door level, which could make it puff out around the door. The actual fire/combustion area is as low as possible to leave the big open area for a smoke chamber above it so that the smoke can “roll” in it before exiting via the flue. Smoke always has to “roll” in any fire, before it goes up. Watch your campfire, brushfire, in your fireplace, etc. it has to roll before it will enter the flue, otherwise it will “back puff” toward the door. That’s also part of the reason I set the flue back some.

The general airflow from start to finish is supposed to go from bottom front, and work steadily toward top back, with room to roll above the fire.

I know that’s a lot more than anyone wanted to know, but that’s why the design is what it is. It smokes zero out the front, even with the door open, but I can’t tell you it’s all because of my design, or if it would work fine done differently. There are endless design options that could work fine.

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SLICK_N_STICKY · 03-01-2021, 06:05 PM

Get about 300 yards away and shoot a hole in it and your good to go. If you're not comfortable shoot another hole in it. Let us know how this works.

Agdog · 03-01-2021, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLICK_N_STICKY

Get about 300 yards away and shoot a hole in it and your good to go. If you're not comfortable shoot another hole in it. Let us know how this works.

I think you’re a little late to the party!

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02-26-2021, 08:38 PM	#101
Dale Moser Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Wise Cty Hunt In: Young Cty	I underestimated the heat output when it was 17 degrees... Things are working well. Just need a few adjustments when we can get a welder out here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-27-2021, 08:04 AM	#103
Mertzon Man Pope & Young Join Date: Jul 2012	Really nice work Dale, I bet that sucker gets hott!

02-27-2021, 08:59 AM	#104
tradtiger Pope & Young Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Austin Hunt In: Lee Co., Granger	Very cool! I like the welded chain links for the handle, which should dissipate the heat a bit, but also allow sticking a screw driver or some such through a link to open the door without needing a welding glove.

02-27-2021, 07:29 PM	#107
Strummer Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edna Tx Hunt In: At Gary's place ,and the backyard	Where did you find the tank ?

02-28-2021, 10:44 AM	#108
Texas Grown Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Burleson, Texas Hunt In: Kick CoViD's tail!	That looks nice n cozy for a cool day!

02-28-2021, 01:23 PM	#109
TexasCanesFan Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Hunt County, Texas Hunt In: NW of Dallas	Love D Mo projects. Turned out awesome. Nice hangout spot.

02-28-2021, 02:57 PM	#111
Dale Moser Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Wise Cty Hunt In: Young Cty	It was an old 100 gallon tank that was my grandads, it was too old to have recertified. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

02-28-2021, 08:15 PM	#112
spidermonkey Ten Point Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: northeast texas Hunt In: northeast and central texas	Looking good, and toasty, Dale! Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty

03-01-2021, 04:22 PM	#113
SAC Ten Point Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Weimar,TX Hunt In: Lavaca, Fayette & Colorado Co.	Dale, do you wish the combustion chamber would be lower relative to the door. I really like this design, just thinking about reloading in an area that small. As opposed to open the door and "drop" it in.

03-01-2021, 05:45 PM	#114
Dale Moser Pope & Young Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Wise Cty Hunt In: Young Cty	No, not really. The design was based on airflow, and doing everything I could to keep it from smoking back out the door when we want to burn it with the door open, or around the door, or air shutter when the door is closed. To that end, the ash drawer is as low as possible, then the air shutter above that so ash doesn’t get in it. Also so the air shutter is below the combustion area to fuel the fire from underneath and promote complete combustion (less coals/ash, more heat). The door opening is fairly large and easy to load wood into, maybe larger than it looks (I think 10 1/4”WX12” or so y’all). I havnt burned my hand or arm or anything...yet. The upper stiffener on the door is angled up and back, again to push smoke away from the door. If the combustion is happening below the door, then the smoke is going to be “rolling” at door level, which could make it puff out around the door. The actual fire/combustion area is as low as possible to leave the big open area for a smoke chamber above it so that the smoke can “roll” in it before exiting via the flue. Smoke always has to “roll” in any fire, before it goes up. Watch your campfire, brushfire, in your fireplace, etc. it has to roll before it will enter the flue, otherwise it will “back puff” toward the door. That’s also part of the reason I set the flue back some. The general airflow from start to finish is supposed to go from bottom front, and work steadily toward top back, with room to roll above the fire. I know that’s a lot more than anyone wanted to know, but that’s why the design is what it is. It smokes zero out the front, even with the door open, but I can’t tell you it’s all because of my design, or if it would work fine done differently. There are endless design options that could work fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03-01-2021, 06:05 PM	#115
SLICK_N_STICKY Ten Point Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: La Porte,Tx Hunt In: Crockett,Tx & Warren,Tx	Get about 300 yards away and shoot a hole in it and your good to go. If you're not comfortable shoot another hole in it. Let us know how this works.