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Old 10-12-2021, 07:05 AM   #1
trophy8
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Default Stainless Tumblers. Which one?

Looking to upgrade to a stainless set up. Looking for feedback on which one and why. Precision rifle cases. No heavy amounts. 100-200 cases at a time max. If thereís a good one on sale that info helps too but I donít want junk!
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Old 10-12-2021, 07:12 AM   #2
M16
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I have this one and really like it.
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ars...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Old 10-12-2021, 07:30 AM   #3
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I have this one and really like it.
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ars...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Thatís the one I was looking at.

How do you dry the cases once done?
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:21 AM   #4
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I've had the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series tumbler for several years now, and it works great. I use it for bulk pistol brass, and it comes out looking brand new. It wouldn't be any different with rifle brass. If you deprime prior to tumbling, it will get your primer pockets clean as well. As for capacity, I can tumble a gallon ziplock full of 9mm or 45 ACP brass, 5 lbs of pins, and water to the top. That comes in right under the weight threshold for the unit which is 30 lbs I believe. I know you only mentioned a few hundred cases, but it will handle a lot. As for accessories, you need the magnet Frankford Arsenal sells. It's only $12-15, and I can't imagine using this tumbler without it. I also have a trough and screen stainless media separator from Lyman which is nice. Lastly, I use the brass dryer from Frankford Arsenal. It's essentially a food dehydrator, and those may work as well. Gets the brass dry inside and out in no time. I still dry tumble all my precision rifle brass, typically due to the batch size. Stainless tumbling is a process that I find to be a bit of a pain for small lots of brass. The actual process is very simple. The whip is separating the media, keeping up with all the pins, making sure there aren't any pins stuck in your cases prior to sizing, washing, rinsing, drying, etc... For large batches of bulk brass, or really dirty range pick-ups, it makes sense to me. For a few hundred pieces of my meticulously cared for rifle brass, it doesn't. It does make some pretty cases though.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:29 AM   #5
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That’s the one I was looking at.

How do you dry the cases once done?
I run them through an RCBS sifter to separate the pins from the brass. Then rinse them in clean water. Use my air compressor to blow the water out. Then lay them outside on a towel to remove any moisture remaining depending on weather of course. Otherwise I’ll stick them in an oven at its lowest temperature setting with the door open.

Last edited by M16; 10-12-2021 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:36 AM   #6
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Buy once cry once, heres the one I use and it’s head and shoulders above anything I’ve used previously. Their not cheap but they work great and you can do a lot of brass at once.

https://big-shot-tumblers.myshopify.com/
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:36 AM   #7
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I have the Lyman Cyclone and have used it for a couple years now without issues. I dry the brass in a cheap food dehydrator I got off ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-7631550.../dp/B01A3PNX1E
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:38 AM   #8
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Buy once cry once, heres the one I use and itís head and shoulders above anything Iíve used previously. Their not cheap but they work great and you can do a lot of brass at once.

https://big-shot-tumblers.myshopify.com/
Looking at the rebel 17 kit as well. Iíll keep this in mind.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:47 AM   #9
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I like quality stuff and clean a ton of brass so that may be more than you need but I’d say anything made currently would be a good choice.

You probably know already but most guys that shoot long range don’t like to SS pin thr brass, I do but I finish it off with a corn media before priming and seating the bullets. I’ve routinely seen as much as 13 pounds of seating pressure differential without media tumbling before seating the bullets and it shows up on paper. I know you shoot a lot so I’m simply giving you a heads up in case you didn’t know.
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Old 10-12-2021, 09:00 AM   #10
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I like quality stuff and clean a ton of brass so that may be more than you need but Iíd say anything made currently would be a good choice.

You probably know already but most guys that shoot long range donít like to SS pin thr brass, I do but I finish it off with a corn media before priming and seating the bullets. Iíve routinely seen as much as 13 pounds of seating pressure differential without media tumbling before seating the bullets and it shows up on paper. I know you shoot a lot so Iím simply giving you a heads up in case you didnít know.
I assume due to removing everything and it then causes friction? The guy that got me into LR stuff years ago uses just stainless. Heís a VERY good shooter. Iíll pick his brain too.

I use hornady one shot and donít clean that off either and it works
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Old 10-12-2021, 09:17 AM   #11
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I’m not a scientist lol but the word is it’s due to removing the carbon and the lack of any residue left on the case the seating pressures change which in turn makes the bullet removal pressures change. Some call is cold friction but all I know for sure is personally I can most definitely see higher seating pressures from it and I can see it on paper. If that’s all you do you can use a different bushing getting the seating pressures lower if the chamber will allow for it but when I tried it I ran into issues so I changed up my routine. I rarely if ever SS pin my target stuff but when I do I use a media before seating everything and still use a media on all my other stuff after pinning them.

I’m not saying one way or another is your best option, simply giving you a heads up before you do something different and it changes your results.
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Old 10-12-2021, 09:44 AM   #12
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Iím not a scientist lol but the word is itís due to removing the carbon and the lack of any residue left on the case the seating pressures change which in turn makes the bullet removal pressures change. Some call is cold friction but all I know for sure is personally I can most definitely see higher seating pressures from it and I can see it on paper. If thatís all you do you can use a different bushing getting the seating pressures lower if the chamber will allow for it but when I tried it I ran into issues so I changed up my routine. I rarely if ever SS pin my target stuff but when I do I use a media before seating everything and still use a media on all my other stuff after pinning them.

Iím not saying one way or another is your best option, simply giving you a heads up before you do something different and it changes your results.
Thatís good info. Iíll check it out.
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Old 10-12-2021, 10:10 AM   #13
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Iím not sure about good info but itís what Iíve learned in the last few decades Let me know what you come up with, if your ever up this way we can put your shooting skills to the test on pigs at 800 yards while eating BBQ and drinking beer, thatís the beauty of back porch long range shooting
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Old 10-12-2021, 10:23 AM   #14
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Iím not sure about good info but itís what Iíve learned in the last few decades Let me know what you come up with, if your ever up this way we can put your shooting skills to the test on pigs at 800 yards while eating BBQ and drinking beer, thatís the beauty of back porch long range shooting
But but. Oklahoma!
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Old 10-12-2021, 10:55 AM   #15
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LOL, our house is in Tx but we can go to the other side if you prefer
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:12 AM   #16
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If my harbor freight dual rock tumbler ever dies I will upgrade to something bigger but its been going strong for 5 years other than one belt replacement (I'm not recommending it because some people have definitely gotten junk ones. Most of the actual brass tumblers have gone down in price in the last few years. I definitely got my 50 bucks on sale out of it.) I would recommend spending the money on a quality sifting system. It's not a good day when the wife finds stainless pins in the garbage disposal.
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Old 10-12-2021, 11:43 AM   #17
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Buy once cry once, heres the one I use and itís head and shoulders above anything Iíve used previously. Their not cheap but they work great and you can do a lot of brass at once.

https://big-shot-tumblers.myshopify.com/
I have this same tumbler, but acquired from him before he changed his company's name.
It was Lonestar Tumblers when I got mine from him locally in McAllen.
It's built like a tank and will last forever if loaded within it's specs.
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Old 10-12-2021, 04:37 PM   #18
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Iíve got one of the Ď FARTí tumblers (Frankfort Arsenal rotary tumbler). I use a case separator to separate out the SS pins from the cases then dry the cases in a towel to get the surface water off and finally into a cheapo food dehydrator for a bit for the final dry. I use imperial dry neck lube to address potential seating pressure issues.
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Old 10-12-2021, 05:06 PM   #19
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This one is pretty good quality. Their customer service is great as well. I'm a fan of leaving some carbon in the necks, but when it has to be absolutely clean it's my go to.

https://stainlesstumblingmedia.com/s...package-2.html
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Old 10-12-2021, 07:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stxhunter View Post
Iíve got one of the Ď FARTí tumblers (Frankfort Arsenal rotary tumbler). I use a case separator to separate out the SS pins from the cases then dry the cases in a towel to get the surface water off and finally into a cheapo food dehydrator for a bit for the final dry. I use imperial dry neck lube to address potential seating pressure issues.

Exactly the same process here.


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Old 10-12-2021, 07:57 PM   #21
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I suggest skipping the SS tumbler and just using a vibratory with corn cob.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:45 PM   #22
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I suggest skipping the SS tumbler and just using a vibratory with corn cob.
Curveball there!

I figured you rolled yours in gold pins after the stainless!
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Old 10-12-2021, 10:05 PM   #23
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Looking at the rebel 17 kit as well. Iíll keep this in mind.
I have the Rebel Extreme 17 and very pleased
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Old 10-13-2021, 06:52 AM   #24
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Curveball there!

I figured you rolled yours in gold pins after the stainless!
I know too many people that have damaged lots of brass from the pins banging up the case necks. Only way to fix this is turn necks and who has time for that garbage?
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Old 10-13-2021, 06:53 AM   #25
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I also don’t want to risk having a SS pin get inside of my AMP annealer. I heard they aren’t too good of friends.
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:20 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Stick1 View Post
This one is pretty good quality. Their customer service is great as well. I'm a fan of leaving some carbon in the necks, but when it has to be absolutely clean it's my go to.

https://stainlesstumblingmedia.com/s...package-2.html
This is one of ďThe MansĒ as far as Iím concerned and the guys that shoot super long range know whatís up with the carbon situation and Iím definitely not in their league but as soon as I get some free time Iím headed over to get a 375 CT on order so I can play in their sandbox with them.

Most people probably canít see any difference but when you shoot long range it most definitely shows up from my experience. To each thr own and if your a weekend warrior or a seasoned pro you need to research your process before jumping into the pond or at the least know what to look for when you do it.
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:37 AM   #27
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I know too many people that have damaged lots of brass from the pins banging up the case necks. Only way to fix this is turn necks and who has time for that garbage?
I used to turn necks on an old 300 win mag LR rig. I hated every second of it. Finally sold it. Shot incredibly well to distance but man the neck turning sucks lol
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Old 10-13-2021, 09:29 AM   #28
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I also donít want to risk having a SS pin get inside of my AMP annealer. I heard they arenít too good of friends.

Iíve only had issues with the pins sticking in 6.5mm caliber brass. It tends to get stuck in the necks.

Nothing will get brass as clean as ss pin tumbling, especially primer pockets so I will continue to use it. Iíve not seen any Ill effects on case necks being damaged but I only run mine for just long enough to clean the primer pockets which is usually 30-45 minutes tops.


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Old 10-13-2021, 09:44 AM   #29
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Iíve only had issues with the pins sticking in 6.5mm caliber brass. It tends to get stuck in the necks.

Nothing will get brass as clean as ss pin tumbling, especially primer pockets so I will continue to use it. Iíve not seen any Ill effects on case necks being damaged but I only run mine for just long enough to clean the primer pockets which is usually 30-45 minutes tops.


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My thoughts are as long as the brass is clean enough to FL size identical and not introduce any material that could scratch my dies, it is clean enough for me. I could care less if it is shiny clean.
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