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Old 01-03-2019, 11:31 AM   #1
BearkatHunter
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Default Building a shop

I'm going to breaking ground on a new shop at the farm in 2019. It will mainly be used for farm machinery repair and metal fabrication. Most likely will have a reloading room/storage, and an office. I'm sure me and the kids will use it a lot for FFA agricultural mechanics projects too. Yes, it will have a concrete foundation.

I was thinking of a 60' wide x 60' long with a 20' covered/ concrete area running the length of the building.

What are some must haves that you would advise me on?

- Insulation?
- Doors?
- Ventilation?
- Others?

This building will not have AC or heat. I will finish out the plumbing and electrical myself.
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:33 AM   #2
txwhitetail
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To me spray insulation is a must and not much more than rolled.

Good power spread all over.

LED lights and plenty of them.


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Old 01-03-2019, 11:42 AM   #3
kcmarullo
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Bathroom
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:45 AM   #4
twistedmidnite
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A beam in the top for a trolly mounted hoist. I use mine constantly
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:54 AM   #5
RWB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedmidnite View Post
A beam in the top for a trolly mounted hoist. I use mine constantly
How wide is your shop? Would love to put one in mine but I am 50 wide.
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Old 01-03-2019, 12:30 PM   #6
reedkj
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insulation, floor drain and lots of outlets and OH lights
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:25 PM   #7
Hix
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Bath room, floor drain(s), indoor water hose, insulated hi lift doors, air compressor slab and awning outside, gutters, insulation, beer fridge


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Old 01-03-2019, 01:53 PM   #8
twistedmidnite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWB View Post
How wide is your shop? Would love to put one in mine but I am 50 wide.
It's 40x50 but the beam runs in the peak of the roof longways from upright beam to beam
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:04 PM   #9
postman
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Build it half again as big as you think you need. You can never build one big enough. Trust me.
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:10 PM   #10
RWB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedmidnite View Post
It's 40x50 but the beam runs in the peak of the roof longways from upright beam to beam
So you span 50 ft with the beam? If so any idea what size the beam is?
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:03 PM   #11
Saddlehorse
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I put my overhead in one 20 x 40 bay ran 4 eye beam from corner to corner then put another on a trolley so it runs the length of the 40
Doors on each end sure keeps it cool in the summer
Position shop with doors on north and south sides to take advantage of the breeze if possible
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Old 01-03-2019, 07:16 PM   #12
Worksalot
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Rip 2x4s down to 1 1/2” x 1 1/2” and install on the top inside edge of the concrete forms. We screwed them in from the backside if possible making sure to clamp them down in position first. Make sure they are perfectly flush with the top of form boards. If you mark the positions of the roll up doors on the forms, you can stop the 1 1/2” boards even where the sheet metal will stop at the door openings. The benefit of these boards and resulting lip in the concrete is that the sheet metal will rest on this lip. Seems to seel better once insulation is installed inside. Makes for a neater appearance in my opinion.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:14 PM   #13
gonehuntin
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12x12 doors and 20 foot tall side walls. Compressor closet with drain in the slab. Plugs every 6 foot along walls, ceiling plugs and or boxes for ceiling fans, retractable trouble light, retractable extension cord, heater. Pull down air hose reels. Large shop sink with water heater.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:39 PM   #14
Randy Madden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worksalot View Post
Rip 2x4s down to 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 and install on the top inside edge of the concrete forms. We screwed them in from the backside if possible making sure to clamp them down in position first. Make sure they are perfectly flush with the top of form boards. If you mark the positions of the roll up doors on the forms, you can stop the 1 1/2 boards even where the sheet metal will stop at the door openings. The benefit of these boards and resulting lip in the concrete is that the sheet metal will rest on this lip. Seems to seel better once insulation is installed inside. Makes for a neater appearance in my opinion.
This is Standard protocol for any concrete contractor
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:39 PM   #15
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Good tip if you’re doing the concrete yourself though
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:12 PM   #16
twistedmidnite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWB View Post
So you span 50 ft with the beam? If so any idea what size the beam is?
It's not a solid 50ft span because it's welded to the main beams that hold up the shop. If I had to guess I'd say the beam is 8-10 inches tall and 6 wide. I have a 1 ton trolly and chain fall and it probably could handle alot more
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Old 01-04-2019, 05:15 AM   #17
8mpg
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If you arent running an insulated door, I dont know if I'd spend too much money on insulation. The doors are the leaky point of the whole build and tons of air will infiltrate while the sun bring in the heat through the metal.

If you are doing metal fab, you really want to clear that welding smoke. Lots of ventilation.
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Old 01-04-2019, 07:04 AM   #18
Loanman
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One of the handiest things i have ever put in mine is my electric #2500 lb winch off of the main IBeam...anything that i cant lift out of the back of my truck or if i want to put something in my truck and cant lift it....Just winch it in.
I have one in my garage at home as well...but only #800 lbs...be careful where you put it at home in your garage for strength.
I have used it many times plus its really good to hold up things like bicycles to work on so you don’t have to get on the ground.
I have to change a Front tire on my Zero turn tomorrow and will be using the winchto hold up the front end to get tire off. Just simple tasks like that.
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Old 01-04-2019, 07:12 AM   #19
bullets13
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We have good spray-in insulation. That makes a huge difference in both the winter and summer. Roll up doors on both ends, and faced in a direction where they’ll catch the prevailing wind in the summer. We also framed in shelving on a lot of the walls for storage and work space.
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:43 PM   #20
fulldraw_529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8mpg View Post
If you arent running an insulated door, I dont know if I'd spend too much money on insulation. The doors are the leaky point of the whole build and tons of air will infiltrate while the sun bring in the heat through the metal.

If you are doing metal fab, you really want to clear that welding smoke. Lots of ventilation.
He said he wasnt planning to have AC or heat in the building so the air coming in through the door has no meaning in regards to the insulation. All the insulation is going to do is help reduce the radiant heat that comes in through the heated metal, and help retain heat within the metal structure during the winter if he decides to run a heater of some type; after all insulation is rated on its ability to keep heat from passing through. Spray foam is the best option if you're willing to pay a little more; it'll far outlast any roll insulation, it will add rigidity to the metal and glue it all together at the seams, and at thicknesses greater than 1.5" it's a vapor barrier so it will keep the inside of the building from sweating.

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Old 01-07-2019, 10:15 PM   #21
kdenhead
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Not to hijack the thread, but what does it cost to spray foam a 40 x 50 shop like the OP wants to build?
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Old 01-07-2019, 10:57 PM   #22
Jon B
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My best advice.....twice as big as you think you need.
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Old 01-08-2019, 11:53 PM   #23
That_Guy
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Spray foam insulation. A couple of Windows and fans will keep it cooler in the summer..
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Old 01-09-2019, 11:00 AM   #24
twistedmidnite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdenhead View Post
Not to hijack the thread, but what does it cost to spray foam a 40 x 50 shop like the OP wants to build?
My brother in law just had one buillt. It was a package that included spray foam. I believe he said with dirt work and all it was $27,000.

It was a 30x40
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