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    Pool Help

    We bought a new above ground pool. 18' x 48". It took 36 hours to fill it up. After it was full, I calculated the amount of liquid chlorine to put in it and added the chlorine and turned on the pump. I walked away and returned about an hour later. It was crystal clear and looked blue when I left. After an hour, it has a green tint. It is still perfectly clear, but it looks like clear lake water now. What happened in that hour? What do I need to do.

    When I returned and saw the green tint, I noticed bubbles all over the walls of the pool. I assumed this was from the pump.

    The water is well water. It comes out really cold. It was too cold to swim in when I turned on the pump. It was about 90°F outside.

    #2
    Not a pool expert, but maybe due to the well water?

    Did you test the water?

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      #3
      Yep, need a water test. And probably shock.

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        #4
        PH balance appears to be off, get a water test kit.

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          #5
          Bring a sample to a local pool store, explain the situation and they’ll help. My understanding is that pH is critical in pools and affects how your chemicals influence the overall makeup of your pool water.

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            #6
            Add 2 bags of shock to it then 4 hours add 12 ounces of dry acid. Wait until the morning should be clear. Will most likely have to back flush it as well. The water will be rusty looking.

            Once you get it all set, I use the Chlorine tabs from Texan Pool add 1-2 max to the skimmer and let it roll.

            Get you a bucket of Optimizer and add a 16 ounce cup after every rain

            Add acid when it begins to get cloudy

            Shock it once a week

            Let Texsun pools test your water for free , follow their print out and you should be good to go.

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              #7
              Originally posted by bbqfan5909 View Post
              PH balance appears to be off, get a water test kit.
              This, get some PH increaser, Test the water, I always keep my PH and chlorine just a little higher then normal.

              Comment


                #8
                Add borax, not acid. 1/2 small box dusted top, It will also settle hair and dirt when sprinkled on top of water. Never add chlorine in the day time. You do need a tester.

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                  #9
                  Had my pool for ten years until I just sold it. First year I did all the tests, chemicals, etc. Not necessary. Just chlorine. Your well water is just fine. The green tint you mentioned is plant algae and chlorine will kill it. I never tested my pool the last nine years, just my eyes. If it was clear great, if it irritated my eyes, I'd back off some. Don't go cheap on the chlorine and do it today.

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                    #10
                    We did the liquid chlorine in our (in ground) pool for 3 or 4 years and we are on well water. I don't remember having your issue, but I know the chemistry was vital. Not the 'shock it once a week' that Leslie's and others recommend (to sell more chemicals). But the ph and all that needs to be right.
                    I wish I could recall the name, but there is a website for folks trying to manage their pools without all the store bought chemicals. My wife did all that because I didn't have the patience for it. Lots of helpful stuff there.

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                      #11
                      Pool RX.....google it....

                      Not sure how it works but my pool has never looked better....$50

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                        #12
                        get one of those simple PH/Chlorine test kits, one with windows to match colors. Get a simple strip test kit, dip strip and match colors for few other items

                        I'm used to salt, so numbers may be slightly different, I think the numbers below are for nonsalt, maintain the following numbers:
                        chlorine at 2-3
                        PH at 7.6
                        Total Alkalinity 70
                        Calcium Hardness at 250-300
                        CYA at 60-70

                        TA, CH, and CYA will not change rapidly, so test occasionally.
                        Maintain chlorine with liquid, tab feeder, or tab floater
                        Maintain ph with Muriatic acid or Super washing soda

                        clear, non eye burning water

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