Broadhead planing

[DWA]

Lets start with this. I shoot trad 98% of the time. Ive started to get this weird tingling in my arm that has turn into down right fire running up my arm. Ive got nerve damage in the arm cant feel the top of my fore arm. That being said im laying off the trad a bit maybe will chill out before season. But i need a back up. I decided to try and shoot my little compound with the 175gr 2 blade steel force broadheads. Well i cant keep these big *******s from knuckle balling. Im shooting gold tips 340 29.5 " long. Have the bow turned up to 70lbs at 28.5 draw. They have the typical 2" vanes and my best guess is that i need to throw on some big feathers. I will say i have other arrows for this bow that with 100 gr bh shoots great. I just want to shoot em any help is greatly appreciated.


Quick video

https://youtu.be/9bQxPOx0oIY

[Dudley]

Probably too weak to shoot that heavy point. 300 spine at that length and weight should be a better fit.

[Katch66]

I am not an authority on arrows by any means but it is my opinion with that amount of weight up front, that long of an arrow, and 70 lb bow, you are underspined and need a stiffer arrow.

[DWA]

Ok ill try turning the poundage down. Any other ideers

[Ruger92]

I agree with the other guys I think your under spined. Too weak of a shaft for the numbers your running. I shoot 275 up front with a 27" draw around 65 pounds and a 300 spine does well.

[DWA]

ok thanks. Im seriously just going to tune the bow to the arrow. Im not so sure ill even shoot it but its a safety net in case this doesnt heal itself. Im just going to start dialing back the poundage and see if i can get it to fly

[muddyfuzzy]

Broadhead planing

That arrow is going to be weak with that amount of weight forward cut to 29.5”. 300’s would be a much better starting point for you but if you want to cut the 340’s down a couple of inches they will work with a good tune on your rig. Assuming you are shooting a standard insert it should hold the weight fine @ 70/28.5” around 27.5” AMO length. Don’t know if that’s an option for you but figured I would throw it out there.

I would suggest bare shaft tuning if that’s something you are comfortable doing. Big broadheads really stress the system and magnify any tuning issues that may not be seen even with a field point of equal weight. I’m seeing a lot of guys these days buying these field point test kits, getting what they feel are acceptable results through the tuning process only to end up with horrible flight when they tie on a big fixed blade head. That’s what happens when you tune to tip weight and neglect setting the bow up properly. Most rigs will accept @ +/- 25 grain increase or decrease in tip weight regardless of the spine reaction with a properly tuned bow with no issues or adjustments needing to be made other than re-sighting.

I would go through the tuning process with the 340’s with the 100 grain tip since there is clearly no spine issue with that setup. If you can achieve a bullet hole @ 5’ and/or good bare shaft flight say at 20 yards I would then move to the 175 and back about two turns out of the bow and see what you get. The drop in weight should decrease the dynamic reaction and allow you to get a good read on the flight. You may still need to shorten the arrow if you don’t want to keep the peak weight down in the mid-low 60’s but it should tell you enough to point you in the right direction.

I ran 175 Tiger Tigersharks the last five years with similar draw weight (67#’s), 1/2” less draw length (28”) and an additional 70 up front and the spine is pretty close to perfect. You shooting a longer DL, more weight and a much longer arrow in a weaker static spine is going to present some challenges but it’s a workable situation imo.

Fun stuff, good luck.


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