Camera buffs? Educate me on zoom lenses....

[SabreKiller]

I have my daughter's old Canon EOS Rebel XT and would like to put a lens on it that I can zoom in and take pictures of deer, whether at my lease or at home off the back porch. What kind of lens should I get to zoom in on deer or other critters that are about 75-100 yards away.

If I could keep the price as low as possible that would be great.

[Shane]

First point of education on high magnification camera lenses: They're not cheap.

You need a lens that's at least 200mm. 400mm to 600mm is far better for getting a tight shot at 100 yards. A zoom lens is a lens that is like a variable scope, going from wider angle to higher magnification. A telephoto lens is a fixed lens that is always at a single magnification. Telephoto lenses are usually a little cheaper than long zoom lenses.

[150class]

First point of education on high magnification camera lenses: They're not cheap.

You need a lens that's at least 200mm. 400mm to 600mm is far better for getting a tight shot at 100 yards. A zoom lens is a lens that is like a variable scope, going from wider angle to higher magnification. A telephoto lens is a fixed lens that is always at a single magnification. Telephoto lenses are usually a little cheaper than long zoom lenses.

Shane covered it pretty well.

I run a 70-200mm f4 lens for some wildlife and I'm not very confident in a solid photo past about 50-70 yards. Other big factor is your aperture (ex: f4, f2.8, etc) . Lower the number the more light the camera can take in and therefore the later in the evening/earlier in the morning you can take photos. Also the higher the magnification the heavier the lens will be.

We run Sony and the 70-200mm f4 is about 1500$. The 70-200mm f2n8 is 2500$....

The zoom lens I want to try is the newer 100-400mm but the aperture is f4.5-5.6... Im curious to how it will preform later/earlier in the day. It runs 2500$ also.

Here is the lens I really want though --> https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._f_2_8_gm.html

[150class]

What is your rough budget numerically?

[Shane]

I rented a Sigma 150-600mm for a trip to Canada last summer. It was very nice. I intend to buy one, but just haven't yet. You can get one for a little over $800. Probably the most affordable really nice big zoom. It's f/5-6.3, so not a super fast lens. I did well with it though.

[ThisLadyHunts]

Here’s another camera question: is shutter speed a function of the camera or the lense? Am interested in capturing series of images of wild game in movement.

[SabreKiller]

What is your rough budget numerically?

I haven't even begun to look, but I was thinking <$500 if that's even possible. I'm a rookie at this so I don't know if Shane's advise to look at a telephoto lens would be better or not.

I'd like to take pictures of the deer at the lease and the axis bucks that pass by my home every day. I can usually get to about 50 yards before either my neighbors fence is in the way or they get spooky.

[Shane]

Here’s another camera question: is shutter speed a function of the camera or the lense? Am interested in capturing series of images of wild game in movement.

Shutter speed is set in the camera. It's one of the 3 settings that determine your exposure. Here's my explanation of exposure settings from a thread a few years ago....

The analogy that I use for the 3 main settings (ISO, shutter speed, and aperture) is this....

The aperture, designated by f/stop number, is similar to the pupil in your eye. The bigger the aperture/pupil, the more light comes in. The only thing that can be confusing is that lower f/stop numbers equate to bigger aperture openings. So f/22 is a really small opening that lets in only a tiny amount of light while f/2.8 is a really large aperture that lets in a lot of light. If you are shooting a scene in bright sunlight, then you can choose a small aperture setting (bigger f/stop number), because you have a lot of bright light to work with. If you are shooting a scene in dim light conditions, then you will probably need to set the f/stop to a low number so you'll have a big wide-open aperture to let in as much light as possible.

The other thing that aperture size will do for you, besides regulating the amount of light passing through the lens, is that it will vary the depth of field. Depth of field is the depth of what is in focus in your image. A tiny aperture opening will bring more things into focus. Things that are both near and far away, relative to whatever you focused the lens on when you take your shot can generally be more in focus with a smaller aperture. If you want to have a narrow depth of field so that only your subject is in focus while everything else is blurred out, then you need to use a larger aperture (low f/stop number).

Next we get to the 2nd setting: shutter speed. The shutter is similar to your eyelid. The longer it stays open, the more light it lets in. If it opens and shuts really fast, then only a small amount of light gets in. If you are in bright light, then you'll likely need to use a faster shutter speed. If you are in low light, then you'll probably need to use a slower shutter speed.

Shutter speed variations do something else as well. If you want to freeze fast-moving objects, like stopping the action in sports photography, then you need a fast shutter speed. But if you want to show the blurred action of moving objects, then you need the shutter to be open for a longer time in order to pick up all the movement that you are after.

The 3rd setting is ISO. A high ISO number (1600, 3200, 6400, etc...) is like your naked eye. It is very sensitive to light, and it picks up detail very easily. You may need to squint or open and shut your eyes really quickly when it is really bright.

A low ISO number is like your eye behind sunglasses. It makes your eye less sensitive to light, so you don't have to squint and you can leave your eyes open longer in bright light. But in dim light you may not be able to see very well, so you'd need to remove your sunglasses.

ISO also has another effect on the photo. Higher ISO numbers will make photos in low light situations brighter, but it comes with a price. Higher ISO settings cause the image to have more "noise" or grainy appearance.

Everything about choosing camera settings is a trade-off. You have 3 different settings that you could adjust to make an exposure brighter or darker, and each of the 3 have side-effects. Which side-effect do you want? Which one do you NOT want? Which one can you live with if you have to, even though you'd prefer not to have it?

I start with the side-effect that I want, and then I work from there. If I am shooting sports, then I definitely want to stop fast action. That means I must have a fast shutter speed. That costs me light, so if I am not shooting in bright sunlight then I have to open up my aperture and/or move to a higher ISO setting. I go to higher ISO as a last resort, because I want to minimize noise. But once you open up your aperture all the way, if you still need more light in order to get a good exposure with a fast shutter, then you have to start boosting ISO.

If I am shooting a portrait or something and I want only my subject to be in focus while everything in the background is blurred out, then I must shoot the shot with a large aperture (low f/stop). That lets in a lot of light, so if I have fairly bright light to begin with, then I will need to shoot a low ISO and/or a faster shutter speed to keep from over-exposing the shot.

There are always more than one combination of settings that will give you a proper exposure of light in a given situation. But the side-effects will vary, depending on which combination of settings you use. It's all about the trade-offs.....

[Shane]

I haven't even begun to look, but I was thinking <$500 if that's even possible. I'm a rookie at this so I don't know if Shane's advise to look at a telephoto lens would be better or not.

I'd like to take pictures of the deer at the lease and the axis bucks that pass by my home every day. I can usually get to about 50 yards before either my neighbors fence is in the way or they get spooky.

You can find a used Canon 300m f/4L lens in good condition for around $600. An f/2.8 lens is better in low light, but they will cost a couple thousand dollars. An f/4 lens isn't bad, and it will be more affordable. The Canon L series of lenses is their top of the line highest quality glass. That would be a good buy for a fixed focal length telephoto.

Tokina makes some good lenses as well. I just saw this one on eBay. Probably would be pretty good for what you're looking for as well. Would be a slight step down from Canon quality, but still a good lens. I have a Tokina wide angle lens that is really nice.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tokina-AT-X-AF-300mm-F-4-for-Canon-EF-Lens-Made-In-Japan/164233725371?hash=item263d17c5bb:g:kJsAAOSw0~de34NZ

[F1addict]

Shane has some great suggestions. Also might try finding a used Sigma or Tamron zoom lens.


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[ThisLadyHunts]

Thank you, Shane! In as many times as I’ve studied each of these three settings, this is the first explanation that 1) not only helped me truly understand each one but 2) helped me understand how they all work in concert!

It’s true what they in that you understand something well enough only when you can explain it to a four-year-old. This simpleton thanks you.

[Lonestar_HOYT]

There is a book Understanding Exposure that explains the three components Shane just touched on. If you are wanting to learn more about how those three effect a picture it’s a great book.

[txbassnaholic]

Shane has some great suggestions. Also might try finding a used Sigma or Tamron zoom lens.


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I have a tamron 150-600 that I love! I can shoot it offhand, but prefer a monopod. you can also add a extender lens at 1.4 or 2x power, but it cost you f stops.... gotta have a lot of light with them!

[rut-ro]

Good info here ladies and gents. Thanks Shane

[Hawkpuppy 1]

I have, and would highly recommend finding a Tamron 150-600mm lens. I got mine used off B&M for about $750. Excellent lens for the price and a lot of range on it.