rifle wont shoot suppressed?

[CWendling]

Got a new 8" 300 BO. Put my suppressor and thermal on to sight in and at 75yds, every shot moved about 6-18". Removed suppressor for regular scope and made sure everything was tight on gun and scope. Ammo was subs and chronoed so i knew the ammo wasnt the problem. Took apart suppressor and no sign of baffle strikes. Shot it again and same thing, all over the place. Suppressor is a Banish 30 and can be shot as a 7" or 9". Removed the last 2" part, and using as a 7", shoots just fine. As a 9", its all over the place. Anyone else ever seen anything like that? Ive used that suppressor on multiple rifles, but no other SBRs.

[doppelganger]

That’s really weird. I have not heard of that. But tagging here to follow


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[McClain]

What is the muzzle velocity in each situation? Sounds like bullet is not stabilized by the time it exits the suppressor. Also check to make sure your twist rate is compatible with that bullet.

[doppelganger]

Can you try SuperSonics and see if it’s more stable. 300blk is a slow round to begin with


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[CWendling]

Im gonna try it with supers as well, just dont have any yet. Its a 1:7 twist so heavy subs shouldnt be the issue. There was no keyholing either. Just no good grouping. I was running a chrono as well and were all 1030-1050

[trophy8]

Sounds like a very light baffle strike

Look at the inside of the end cap. After each shot. Sometimes it can be hard to see. Doesn’t take much. You removing the last 2” makes me almost certain this is the case. Threads aren’t concentric. Or the end cap isn’t straight. But I’d put money on light baffle strikes or end cap strikes.

[CWendling]

im gonna order an alignment rod to check that also as it is a consideration of course

[TX03RUBI]

Originally Posted by trophy8

Sounds like a very light baffle strike

Look at the inside of the end cap. After each shot. Sometimes it can be hard to see. Doesn’t take much. You removing the last 2” makes me almost certain this is the case. Threads aren’t concentric. Or the end cap isn’t straight. But I’d put money on light baffle strikes or end cap strikes.

Gotta agree. Removing the furthest portion of the can and gaining accuracy back is an indicator for sure. Sometimes they’re so light you can’t notice any scuffing or marks without serious inspection.

[doppelganger]

Answers do bring up the question of, are you shimming the suppressor? If so, with what shims?


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[CWendling]

No shims, just direct thread

[imyomama]

you're being lucky it's just grazing the end cap ... non concentric threads ... either get a good smith to square your threads or replace the barrel all together. trying to save a 200 barrel over a 800 suppressor ... i'd chunk it myself . and 10.5" are easier to tune ....

[gatorgrizz27]

Originally Posted by trophy8

Sounds like a very light baffle strike

Look at the inside of the end cap. After each shot. Sometimes it can be hard to see. Doesn’t take much. You removing the last 2” makes me almost certain this is the case. Threads aren’t concentric. Or the end cap isn’t straight. But I’d put money on light baffle strikes or end cap strikes.

That is my thought as well

[CWendling]

I shot again yesterday. No sign of any baffle or endcap strikes. Also put 2 different alignment rods down the barrel. Both had an easy .020 clearance at the endcap so i've gotta think that there is nothing being struck. Next, im gonna shoot some supers, just to see if its something happening internally with the subs and the suppressor air flow?? Kinda at a loss

[Mike D]

Originally Posted by CWendling

Im gonna try it with supers as well, just dont have any yet. Its a 1:7 twist so heavy subs shouldnt be the issue. There was no keyholing either. Just no good grouping. I was running a chrono as well and were all 1030-1050

Noveske 300 blackout SBR barrels used to be 1:8 (I have one) they switched to 1:7 for a bit but saw accuracy degradation. I’m not sure what their current barrels are.

What barrel do you have (manufacturer)?


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[CWendling]

Originally Posted by Mike D

Noveske 300 blackout SBR barrels used to be 1:8 (I have one) they switched to 1:7 for a bit but saw accuracy degradation. I’m not sure what their current barrels are.

What barrel do you have (manufacturer)?


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Its a PSA gun, so i think they use (or at least stamp) their own barrels. Ill go look at it in a bit and see if it says anything other than PSA