I've been shooting a Z7 extreme for the last 4 years and I just picked up a Nitrum Turbo. I'm struggling a bit to get a good fit on the Hoyt. I like the bow, don't get me wrong but even getting the peep elevation height has been a struggle and I feel like it is inconsistent when I shoot. Obviously this is probably due to an inconsistent anchor. I am wondering about string angle and anchors and how to phase in a different fit. The Hoyt has 5 inches more length on the axle to axle and the Z7 has a much sharper string angle being only a 28 ATA. Not sure if this all makes sense but wondering if there is any wisdom out there in regards to this issue. Both bows are set to a 28 DL and that fit feels good on both. Of course I understand that not every bow fits everybody but I want to work through this a bit and see if me and the Hoyt can come to terms.
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Axle to axle and string angle changes, the struggle is real
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This is a full bow build of the Hoyt RX1. John Dudley completes a custom Nock On build for Andy Stumpf and shows you the step by step process. Learn how to b...
John covers this topic very well in this video, check it out he talks exactly to the issues you are having.
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The bottom line is this..
The shorter a bow the less forgiving it will be.. Your form and mechanics will have to be very consistent with a short bow.. If it is not you will not shoot it well.. The longer the bow, the more forgiving it will be thus being easier to shoot accurately.. This has been known fact for a very long time..
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Originally posted by ttaxidermy View PostThe bottom line is this..
The shorter a bow the less forgiving it will be.. Your form and mechanics will have to be very consistent with a short bow.. If it is not you will not shoot it well.. The longer the bow, the more forgiving it will be thus being easier to shoot accurately.. This has been known fact for a very long time..
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I know exactly what you are dealing with . My target bow is 36 and my hunting bow is 34 ATA. The 2 inches changes the string angles considerably. You will have to play with your anchor point, and contact points on your face for a while. Once you get comfortable you wont notice the difference. Your peep can be adjusted to your fit on your new bow. If you try and use measurements off your old bow to the new one it wont work.. My advice is set your loop to your rest and adjust your peep until it feels good and comes to your eye naturally..
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I really need to get the squared peep height measured on the Mathews. That bow fits me like a glove. I regularly shoot it at foam out to 80 yds. I am hoping once I get the Hoyt set up those long distance groups tighten up.
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Violence never settles anything
-Genghis Kahn
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Have em put a kisser on for u over at archery country..
I know some people don't like them but it takes any anchor inconsistencies out of the question for me
I shoot z7e also ..I shot my friends turbo when we went on an elk hunt and while I liked the speed I felt like it wanted to jump outta my hands to the point that I never found a good reliable anchor/valley in the draw.
Such a nice bow thoughLast edited by kingranch; 01-22-2018, 10:35 PM.
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Originally posted by kingranch View PostHave em put a kisser on for u over at archery country..
I know some people don't like them but it takes any anchor inconsistencies out of the question for me
I shoot z7e also ..I shot my friends turbo when we went on an elk hunt and while I liked the speed I felt like it wanted to jump outta my hands to the point that I never found a good reliable anchor/valley in the draw.
Such a nice bow though
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I got a Nitrum Turbo when they first came out a couple years ago in 28” on a #2. You can also shoot it at 28” on the #3. The #2 will be consistently 2-3 FPS faster than #3 with the same arrow and draw weight all else being equal. The #3 does have a much better valley than the #2, which has essentially none. It’s important that you get the cam sync in order for this bow to hold well. Dead even to the top just a tad ahead is where it needs to be. The Nitrum Turbo is a lot a bow and is extremely aggressive. If not set up properly it will eat you alive and you will fear shooting it.
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Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View PostI got a Nitrum Turbo when they first came out a couple years ago in 28” on a #2. You can also shoot it at 28” on the #3. The #2 will be consistently 2-3 FPS faster than #3 with the same arrow and draw weight all else being equal. The #3 does have a much better valley than the #2, which has essentially none. It’s important that you get the cam sync in order for this bow to hold well. Dead even to the top just a tad ahead is where it needs to be. The Nitrum Turbo is a lot a bow and is extremely aggressive. If not set up properly it will eat you alive and you will fear shooting it.
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The bow is tuned well and has new strings on it. It groups well when I do my part. Doing my part is the issue. I think the plan is to get the peep issue nailed down and shoot it for a while. I'll put some focus on possible anchor issues/needed changes also.
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Originally posted by Stoof View PostYour not helping my confidence issues around this bow at all.
The bow is tuned well and has new strings on it. It groups well when I do my part. Doing my part is the issue. I think the plan is to get the peep issue nailed down and shoot it for a while. I'll put some focus on possible anchor issues/needed changes also.
You need to get the anchor points down first and then install the peep. A less radical string angle means your head will be in a different position (more upright) probably. That is, if you were touching the string on the shorter bow with your nose.
Anyway, your body will be in a slightly different position with the longer bow and you can't use your previous peep height, even at full draw, if your head is tilted differently.
Getting the draw length close, getting the head and shoulders right and getting the anchor right is first. Then we install the peep, then fine tune the draw length for the best hold.
You know where I live, you know what I charge...
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Originally posted by Rat View PostYou are doing it backwards; putting the cart before the horse as it were.
You need to get the anchor points down first and then install the peep. A less radical string angle means your head will be in a different position (more upright) probably. That is, if you were touching the string on the shorter bow with your nose.
Anyway, your body will be in a slightly different position with the longer bow and you can't use your previous peep height, even at full draw, if your head is tilted differently.
Getting the draw length close, getting the head and shoulders right and getting the anchor right is first. Then we install the peep, then fine tune the draw length for the best hold.
You know where I live, you know what I charge...
I may make the trip out soon.
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