Stainless Tumblers. Which one?

[Clay6x45]

If my harbor freight dual rock tumbler ever dies I will upgrade to something bigger but its been going strong for 5 years other than one belt replacement (I'm not recommending it because some people have definitely gotten junk ones. Most of the actual brass tumblers have gone down in price in the last few years. I definitely got my 50 bucks on sale out of it.) I would recommend spending the money on a quality sifting system. It's not a good day when the wife finds stainless pins in the garbage disposal.

[H-D]

Buy once cry once, heres the one I use and it’s head and shoulders above anything I’ve used previously. Their not cheap but they work great and you can do a lot of brass at once.

https://big-shot-tumblers.myshopify.com/

I have this same tumbler, but acquired from him before he changed his company's name.
It was Lonestar Tumblers when I got mine from him locally in McAllen.
It's built like a tank and will last forever if loaded within it's specs.

[stxhunter]

I’ve got one of the ‘ FART’ tumblers (Frankfort Arsenal rotary tumbler). I use a case separator to separate out the SS pins from the cases then dry the cases in a towel to get the surface water off and finally into a cheapo food dehydrator for a bit for the final dry. I use imperial dry neck lube to address potential seating pressure issues.

[Stick1]

This one is pretty good quality. Their customer service is great as well. I'm a fan of leaving some carbon in the necks, but when it has to be absolutely clean it's my go to.

https://stainlesstumblingmedia.com/shop/reloading-products/package-kits/stm-complete-package-2.html

[Mike D]

I’ve got one of the ‘ FART’ tumblers (Frankfort Arsenal rotary tumbler). I use a case separator to separate out the SS pins from the cases then dry the cases in a towel to get the surface water off and finally into a cheapo food dehydrator for a bit for the final dry. I use imperial dry neck lube to address potential seating pressure issues.

Exactly the same process here.


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[JakeGraves]

I suggest skipping the SS tumbler and just using a vibratory with corn cob.

[trophy8]

I suggest skipping the SS tumbler and just using a vibratory with corn cob.

Curveball there!

I figured you rolled yours in gold pins after the stainless!

[Cajun Blake]

Looking at the rebel 17 kit as well. I’ll keep this in mind.

I have the Rebel Extreme 17 and very pleased

[JakeGraves]

Curveball there!

I figured you rolled yours in gold pins after the stainless!

I know too many people that have damaged lots of brass from the pins banging up the case necks. Only way to fix this is turn necks and who has time for that garbage?

[JakeGraves]

I also don’t want to risk having a SS pin get inside of my AMP annealer. I heard they aren’t too good of friends.

[Kong]

This one is pretty good quality. Their customer service is great as well. I'm a fan of leaving some carbon in the necks, but when it has to be absolutely clean it's my go to.

https://stainlesstumblingmedia.com/s...package-2.html

This is one of “The Mans” as far as I’m concerned and the guys that shoot super long range know what’s up with the carbon situation and I’m definitely not in their league but as soon as I get some free time I’m headed over to get a 375 CT on order so I can play in their sandbox with them.

Most people probably can’t see any difference but when you shoot long range it most definitely shows up from my experience. To each thr own and if your a weekend warrior or a seasoned pro you need to research your process before jumping into the pond or at the least know what to look for when you do it.

[trophy8]

I know too many people that have damaged lots of brass from the pins banging up the case necks. Only way to fix this is turn necks and who has time for that garbage?

I used to turn necks on an old 300 win mag LR rig. I hated every second of it. Finally sold it. Shot incredibly well to distance but man the neck turning sucks lol

[Mike D]

I also don’t want to risk having a SS pin get inside of my AMP annealer. I heard they aren’t too good of friends.

I’ve only had issues with the pins sticking in 6.5mm caliber brass. It tends to get stuck in the necks.

Nothing will get brass as clean as ss pin tumbling, especially primer pockets so I will continue to use it. I’ve not seen any Ill effects on case necks being damaged but I only run mine for just long enough to clean the primer pockets which is usually 30-45 minutes tops.


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[JakeGraves]

I’ve only had issues with the pins sticking in 6.5mm caliber brass. It tends to get stuck in the necks.

Nothing will get brass as clean as ss pin tumbling, especially primer pockets so I will continue to use it. I’ve not seen any Ill effects on case necks being damaged but I only run mine for just long enough to clean the primer pockets which is usually 30-45 minutes tops.


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My thoughts are as long as the brass is clean enough to FL size identical and not introduce any material that could scratch my dies, it is clean enough for me. I could care less if it is shiny clean.