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    #16
    Originally posted by hogslayer78 View Post
    Yes. Green is pure and red is 2% thoriated which you use for carbon, stainless, ect just not aluminum. You can use lanthinated which is blue. Also after you sand the area using a tiger disk or flapper wheel, you need to wipe the area you sanded with acetone, denatured alcohol or something similar to clean it.
    You actually can weld aluminum with 2% tungsten. Need to ensure your machine is AC or you are chingalayed from the get go sir.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Mr. Whiskers View Post
      You actually can weld aluminum with 2% tungsten. Need to ensure your machine is AC or you are chingalayed from the get go sir.
      Dug around and confirmed it is DC only. Whomp whomp. Guess it's back to the spool gun.

      Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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        #18
        Originally posted by Mr. Whiskers View Post
        You actually can weld aluminum with 2% tungsten. Need to ensure your machine is AC or you are chingalayed from the get go sir.
        You can drive tee post also with a ball peen hammer but there's better tools for the application. I tig weld exotic steels every day all day for a living for petro chemical applications and would not nor have I ever used 2% thoriated for aluminum welding. Been doing it for 25 yrs now. You do not use 2% thoriated(red) for aluminum welding. You can use 2% lanthinated (blue)but pure tungsten(green) is best for aluminum welding. I am trying to help him make the welds possible

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          #19
          Originally posted by hogslayer78 View Post
          You can drive tee post also with a ball peen hammer but there's better tools for the application. I tig weld exotic steels every day all day for a living for petro chemical applications and would not nor have I ever used 2% thoriated for aluminum welding. Been doing it for 25 yrs now. You do not use 2% thoriated(red) for aluminum welding. You can use 2% lanthinated (blue)but pure tungsten(green) is best for aluminum welding. I am trying to help him make the welds possible
          I need all the help I can get! And apparently a different machine.

          Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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            #20
            hogslayer beat me to it as usual! Good info here, and good luck! Now… I prob don’t do it as much, and I’m confident I’m not as good at it, as hogslayer… But, I also Tig weld daily as part of my living, as well as on the side, and there are SOME instances I’d rather use a spool gun for what you’re gonna be doing. And basically the only reason… I completely refurbed my flat bottom jon a few years ago, and there were several of the welds that would’ve really sucked/been near impossible, with my tig. Like laying on my back up under the front platform, welding the underneath side to the tubing frame. It was just easier to tack it up with the spool, and weld it out with the Tig where I could. Hope ya get it worked out! Good Huntin, and God Bless, Rusty
            Last edited by spidermonkey; 10-14-2021, 11:08 AM. Reason: No grammar expert…

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              #21
              Originally posted by hogslayer78 View Post
              You can drive tee post also with a ball peen hammer but there's better tools for the application. I tig weld exotic steels every day all day for a living for petro chemical applications and would not nor have I ever used 2% thoriated for aluminum welding. Been doing it for 25 yrs now. You do not use 2% thoriated(red) for aluminum welding. You can use 2% lanthinated (blue)but pure tungsten(green) is best for aluminum welding. I am trying to help him make the welds possible
              All good sir and not here to argue. I owned a fab shop and welded for a living as well. Always used pure tungsten for aluminum. Went to a shop as a CWI for a customer and witnessed it first hand, 2% thoriated and sharpened. The welder preferred it over pure tungsten on thinner aluminum. After seeing it done, I have welded with it as well with good results. Good luck to the OP on his project.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Mr. Whiskers View Post
                All good sir and not here to argue. I owned a fab shop and welded for a living as well. Always used pure tungsten for aluminum. Went to a shop as a CWI for a customer and witnessed it first hand, 2% thoriated and sharpened. The welder preferred it over pure tungsten on thinner aluminum. After seeing it done, I have welded with it as well with good results. Good luck to the OP on his project.
                Not here to argue either bud but I know what im talking about. Im sure the guy was using 2% lanthinated sharpened not thoriated. no where in this guide do you see thoriated even listed.

                10 Best Tungsten For Aluminum Welding: [Extensive Guide]
                TIG welding makes sense when you need to craft delicate welded joints and seams. Jobs like these require precision just as much as tungsten electrodes. In
                Attached Files

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                  #23
                  There has always been a debate about what kinds of tungsten to use on different types of metal. I've been using 2% thoriated on aluminum for well over 20 years now. Some of it X-ray quality. Most of it in the aircraft industry. I also use it on Ti6/4 and lower, 625 and up inconel, all kinds of stainless, borium, and what ever else I need to. I keep my tips sharp, until they just wear down or get to dirty, if it's not x-ray. I've also use ceriated, pure, and a host of others. But for the money, thoriated is hard to beat for staying clean and concentrating heat with minimum time down for tungsten sharpening. Especially on thin delicate metals where precision is needed.



                  After a while, welding becomes an art. And every artist learns to use different methods and techniques, pending the job requirements, be it aircraft, structural, pipe, or other. Aluminum was the first metal I ever learned to weld, back in 1976 when I was 18 yoa.




                  Edit: And OP, yes, I will recommend 4043 filler for boat repair. It will handle the flexibility and vibration boats need better than some of the other fillers. I did Structural Warranty Repair for Tracker Marine, Lowes, and a few others for the 5 state region for a couple of years. Ir will melt at a lower temp and is easier to work with. But doesn't penetrate as well. Also, it makes a wider weld, which can or can not be a good thing pending circumstances. Most hulls on jon boats are .065" or less in thickness, until you get into the welded hulls. Then most jump up to a .100" or more.
                  Last edited by Texas Grown; 10-15-2021, 04:58 PM.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by Texas Grown View Post
                    There has always been a debate about what kinds of tungsten to use on different types of metal. I've been using 2% thoriated on aluminum for well over 20 years now. Some of it X-ray quality. Most of it in the aircraft industry. I also use it on Ti6/4 and lower, 625 and up inconel, all kinds of stainless, borium, and what ever else I need to. I keep my tips sharp, until they just wear down or get to dirty, if it's not x-ray. I've also use ceriated, pure, and a host of others. But for the money, thoriated is hard to beat for staying clean and concentrating heat with minimum time down for tungsten sharpening. Especially on thin delicate metals where precision is needed.



                    After a while, welding becomes an art. And every artist learns to use different methods and techniques, pending the job requirements, be it aircraft, structural, pipe, or other. Aluminum was the first metal I ever learned to weld, back in 1976 when I was 18 yoa.




                    Edit: And OP, yes, I will recommend 4043 filler for boat repair. It will handle the flexibility and vibration boats need better than some of the other fillers. I did Structural Warranty Repair for Tracker Marine, Lowes, and a few others for the 5 state region for a couple of years. Ir will melt at a lower temp and is easier to work with. But doesn't penetrate as well. Also, it makes a wider weld, which can or can not be a good thing pending circumstances. Most hulls on jon boats are .065" or less in thickness, until you get into the welded hulls. Then most jump up to a .100" or more.
                    Great info. Thanks for sharing.

                    Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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