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    Originally posted by Low Fence View Post
    Just my opinion on paper:

    If done by correct person, it’s extremely useful. Fact is MOST can’t shoot a bullet hole with a tuned bow, due to multiple issues. But it’s a fact

    The notion of “tune to your quirks” is garbage and BS. there is a small grey area on both sides of perfect that you CAN do that.. but most fall outside that.... it’s why we shoot fletching

    Don’t chase your tail too long on this bare shaft of arrow flight is good and shoots BH and FP together at 40+ yards

    JMHO


    Well, with the current setup, the 300 spine is shooting very consistently tight holes...
    do I spend the money to build out this setup and test broadhead flight, or do I work on getting everything tuned perfect before deciding on my arrow setup?


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      Man I tried going that route and went with a number of midweight/heavyweight options but I don't think I can get on board. Long story short I going back to 383 grains at 300+ speed. I've got full passthroughs on deer, pig, bear, elk, fallow, and ibex. The only game animals I haven't were red stag (frontal shot) and pig (bad shot placement).

      In the end I think confidence is the main factor in any setup. If you are confident then you are going to be a routine killer
      Last edited by RanchFrag; 03-04-2020, 04:35 PM.

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        Originally posted by RanchFrag View Post
        Man I tried going that route and went with a number of midweight/heavyweight options but I don't think I can get on board. Long story short I going back to 383 grains at 300+ speed. I've got full passthroughs on deer, pig, bear, elk, fallow, and ibex. The only game animals I haven't were red stag (frontal shot) and pig (bad shot placement).

        In the end I think confidence is the main factor in any setup. If you are confident then you are going to be a routine killer
        Yup
        I killed a pig 12 weeks after my shoulder surgery with a 35 lb Browning micro Midas and a 400 grain arrow.
        Complete pass through.

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          Originally posted by IkemanTX View Post
          Well, with the current setup, the 300 spine is shooting very consistently tight holes...
          do I spend the money to build out this setup and test broadhead flight, or do I work on getting everything tuned perfect before deciding on my arrow setup?


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Your bow needs to be right before you start testing arrows.

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            Time for adult arrows....

            Got thrown for a loop with this coronavirus crap and JUST got all the components ordered.

            After hundreds of shots, I decided on the 250 spine Black Eagle Carnivore arrows (at 27.75”), a 100 grain stainless steel Ethics Archery insert, and a 315 grain Tuff Head single bevel broadhead. That is only 15 grains heavier up front than what I spent hours and hours working with last month. So, I am positive I will be able to tune in the extra 15 grains.

            I need to replace my string so I will have the timing, limb strength, rest height, and nock height all re-done before final bareshaft tuning. It will be nice starting from absolute scratch with my final arrow setup.

            I know this is overkill for Whitetails. I am hoping for overkill. As mentioned previously in this thread, I am looking for an arrow that will punch through vines without deflection, hit a deer that jumped a string on me, bust through the scapula, and still wreck the vitals. Deer aren’t stationary targets... they move, and as such I need to plan for worst case scenario.

            Obviously the shot mentioned above isn’t something I will intentionally take, but again... worst case scenario.

            Once I get everything in, I will assemble the arrows (insert tuned as close as I can get them), then I will paper tune the bow, then I will nock tune each arrow, then I will fletch them... the top few arrows get selected for broadheads.

            I will only shoot enough broadhead shots to ensure good broadhead tuning... then after that, I will sharpen my broadheads to a razor’s edge and leave them be to until season. A quick touch up at the beginning of season, and a leather strop each hunt day, and I expect my broadheads to have downright scary effect on deer.

            I guess I will update in a couple weeks when I get everything settled in.

            Edit: I can’t spell... corrected that.

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            Last edited by IkemanTX; 07-03-2020, 08:40 PM.

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              Originally posted by rocky View Post
              Why not use an arrow that weighs 1,000 grains or more? Seems like there is no negatives to super heavy, extremely high foc arrows. ? Where is the point of diminishing return?
              Yep, if your going adult go adult. I’ve tried them to 1500 gr. just to see what all the hype is about. And if your sitting close to a feeder or up in tree over a travel route and your shooting 20-25 yards or less. I don’t see why the heavy arrow guys stop short of “ adult”. Spot and stalk 1500 gr. was not a good option. Nor was 900 or even 600. I find I have no issues with an arrow weight around 500 or even slightly less. Penetration is still great( with fixed or mech.) and trajectory is favorable.
              Last edited by critter69; 07-03-2020, 10:08 PM.

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                I get pass through shots with a 400 spine arrow and a 26.5" draw length shooting Rage heads. Tuning is where most bows get short changed on performance.

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                  Hey if you want to go "adult" with your setup, that's great, just don't under sale speed with a lighter/ish arrow with a very sharp broadhead that is flying true. A lot of bowhunters use this setup with lots of success.


                  The debate on this rages on, I just hate it when one clan starts pissing on another clan....makes us look infantile. Zane has some very good points/proof, so he is worthy of a listen as is enewman and others, however if your setup is productive, why change it? I was falling into that trap, I backed out of it very slowly.

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                    interesting read
                    I too have been watching a lot of Troy's videos.

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                      Don’t overthink this. There are obvious benefits to speed and weight. I’m generally concerned more about tuning and my proficiency with my bow.

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                          For those who have played around with FOC and different insert weights, prior to settling on a weight and gluing them in, how did you test? I was thinking a wrap of electrical tape around the base of the field point and insert would secure it enough to the shaft for a few shots and provide a true enough reading. Any other ideas?

                          Next question...would it work better to pick up the ranch fairy field point test kit and run them with the stock glued aluminum inserts to find that magic FOC combo? Yes, it puts the weight a bit further out whereas a heavier insert keeps some weight back. Just trying to find a simple way to test that also gives accurate results.

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                            Put a small piece of plastic bag over arrow end and push insert in... it will hold it enough to hunt with!

                            As far as weight location all your doing is getting an inaccurate number.... that means squat anyway. Find/shoot what flies best and fits your needs... and if that’s 10% or 79% it don’t matter.

                            The way your going about finding weight is splitting hairs that don’t matter
                            Last edited by Low Fence; 09-02-2020, 07:57 AM.

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                              I wish I had been smart enough to sell people fields points as a “test kit” for profit......


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                                Im getting everything I need to build my arrows. Starting off with Black Eagle Carnivor 250's, Ethics Archery 125-200gn Outsert system, a Ethics Test Kit and 180gn Steelforce SS Phathead broadheads.

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