Sucker rods as rebar??

[bboswell]

That won't matter. Rebar is for load transfer.
.

Rebar adds tension strength to concrete. Concrete is extremely strong in compression but not in tension unless a bar that it can bond to or post tension cables are added.

OP, do yourself a favor and go #3 bars or mesh, if you use mesh shrill put bars in your beams.

[sling shot]

Rebar does not ensure against movement or hairline cracks. For what your doing use what you have on hand. There are slabs all over the state with way less.

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[Randy Madden]

I always love the comments, use fiber mesh instead of rebar! Lol
Fiber is an additive, not a replacement for reinforcement.
Trust me, been doing concrete for nearly 30 years. Everything from residential to industrial. If you can draw it on a print Ive probably done it.

[flywise]

Sucker rod would work fine, if your worried about not being textured…..get a grinder and texture it but not necessary. Hell, toss rocks in the Crete as well

[Take Dead Aim]

I always love the comments, use fiber mesh instead of rebar! Lol
Fiber is an additive, not a replacement for reinforcement.
Trust me, been doing concrete for nearly 30 years. Everything from residential to industrial. If you can draw it on a print Ive probably done it.

I agree with my original statement and 100% agree with Randy. Having poured everything from sidewalk to tilt wall buildings and just about everything in between. For some reason on TBH people like to cut corners on concrete.

[bowfishin fool]

I agree with my original statement and 100% agree with Randy. Having poured everything from sidewalk to tilt wall buildings and just about everything in between. For some reason on TBH people like to cut corners on concrete.

Wait that didn’t answer my question?! If yallve done a ton of it…. Sucker rod or rebar?

I don’t mind buying the rebar, just had a free resources and thought it might be comparable


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[CabezaBlanca]

I would not use rebar in place of sucker rod!

[RR 314]

I would not use rebar in place of sucker rod!

I agree with this. Rebar downhole is a mess. :-)

[Randy Madden]

Wait that didn’t answer my question?! If yallve done a ton of it…. Sucker rod or rebar?

I don’t mind buying the rebar, just had a free resources and thought it might be comparable


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Do it right and Use rebar….
Anyone that’s says differently has limited experience imo

If I was pouring concrete for myself and had free sucker rods I’d sell the rods and buy rebar.

[Randy Madden]

Sorry, Not trying to sound arrogant. You wouldn’t believe some of the stuff I’ve seen over the years where I was paid to go behind someone else and fix or redo what they tried to cut corners on and save money. Every Tom ,****, and Harry that has ever helped a buddy, cousin, friend, uncle , or ect.. pour more than a yard of concrete is now a professional and quick to give out free and crappy advice. I’ve thrown away more engineered prints in one day than most people seen in their entire life and not one single time have I ever seen an approval for slick rods or fiber in place of proper reinforcement.
And yes… I’ve tore up and replaced concrete that had sucker rods in it as well.

[softpoint]

I'd go for the textured rebar. The fact is, rebar doesn't keep concrete from cracking, it keeps the cracks from opening up when it does, so the textured surface helps with that. I'd probably sell the sucker rod and buy some rebar.

[El General]

Rebar doesn’t bind concrete with its ridges. Concrete is bound laterally by the waffle like structure created by mat reinforcing. If reinforcing needed ridges, post tension wouldn’t work. Concrete doesn’t adhere naturally to steel at all.

OP, 5/8” bar is too heavy for most slab reinforcing requirements and will promote certain types of dry shrinkage cracking because it is too stiff. Sell your sucker rod for scrap, buy the rebar you need, and pocket the profit.

[Randy Madden]

Rebar doesn’t bind concrete with its ridges. Concrete is bound laterally by the waffle like structure created by mat reinforcing. If reinforcing needed ridges, post tension wouldn’t work. Concrete doesn’t adhere naturally to steel at all.

OP, 5/8” bar is too heavy for most slab reinforcing requirements and will promote certain types of dry shrinkage cracking because it is too stiff. Sell your sucker rod for scrap, buy the rebar you need, and pocket the profit.

Think about what you just said..
Rebar is designed the way it is for a reason. Go stick you a piece of rebar in a bucket of wet concrete and let it cure and then try to pull it out.
Also post tension slabs are not held together but the “waffle” pattern of the cables. (Post tension cables are lubed and encased so they can freely move when stressed) it is the tension applied that holds the structure together.

[Bullseye07]

Think about what you just said..
Rebar is designed the way it is for a reason. Go stick you a piece of rebar in a bucket of wet concrete and let it cure and then try to pull it out.
Also post tension slabs are not held together but the “waffle” pattern of the cables. (Post tension cables are lubed and encased so they can freely move when stressed) it is the tension applied that holds the structure together.

Pt slabs will still have tradition rebar reinforcing too.

OP, I’m a commercial GC. Randy knows what he’s talking about. Just get some rebar.


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[Sackett]

Isn't most of the soil around Cuero Heavy Clay? If so, don't scrimp on the materials. Do it right the first time. Clay expands and contracts excessively depending on moisture so you want a material that's going to hold together with soil movement.