Question about painting a wood blind

[kmack]

I wasn't sure if this should be in the DIY Forum or not, but since it's just a question, figured I'd throw it in here...

I'm building a new blind using "reclaimed" wood. By that I mean old concrete forms that were made out of 2x's and plywood (not the typical laminated ply sheets used in commercial construction).

I'm going to clean up the wood using a wire brush on my grinder to get to a clean wood surface. My question is, can/should I apply a wood sealer prior to putting the actual paint on?

I picked up a few gallons of an exterior latex paint from the Habitat Store for cheap, but because of this, I'd like to try and give the wood a bit more life than just a couple coats of paint. I was also given about 9 gallons of wood sealer, which is why I'm asking the question.

I just don't know if you can paint over an area that's been sealed and still have the paint stay on and last.

Ideas? Let 'em rip....

[Smart]

I wasn't sure if this should be in the DIY Forum or not, but since it's just a question, figured I'd throw it in here...

I'm building a new blind using "reclaimed" wood. By that I mean old concrete forms that were made out of 2x's and plywood (not the typical laminated ply sheets used in commercial construction).

I'm going to clean up the wood using a wire brush on my grinder to get to a clean wood surface. My question is, can/should I apply a wood sealer prior to putting the actual paint on?

I picked up a few gallons of an exterior latex paint from the Habitat Store for cheap, but because of this, I'd like to try and give the wood a bit more life than just a couple coats of paint. I was also given about 9 gallons of wood sealer, which is why I'm asking the question.

I just don't know if you can paint over an area that's been sealed and still have the paint stay on and last.

Ideas? Let 'em rip....

No sealer on the base before you paint exterior. The paint itself will soak in and act as a barrier for the wood. I prefer satin or semi gloss as it has better water repellent tendencies. You just need to keep up with repaints. I have two blinds that were built in 2008 and 2009 and I repaint every 5 years. Quick roll on each of the 4 sides mostly with Ooops paint I can find at the counters. Still going strong.

Personally I would think the sealer would work against the latex. Man not even allow it to stick well. But I'm not near that level of a paint expert.. I can without a doubt say that I've personally never heard anybody putting a sealer on before paint though. Some folks do add primer first but with today's paints it's not that important on deer blind wood.

[Hogmauler]

Not sure but you may be able to paint over painted wood with a water based sealer. Personally I’d probably go to Lowes and buy some exterior oops paint. Then I’d offer to pay a little extra if they will change it to the color I’d like.

[tigerscowboy]

Absolutely no sealer first. Clean if needed. Apply multiple coats or single heavy if attempting a camo pattern.

Flat paint. Minimize the light reflection. Quality paint costs more and lasts longer. Cheaper paint costs less and usually lasts less. Heavy coat the top of whatever you have with reflective white.

Rotting outdoor wood begins at the cuts. Apply some paintable caulk where you can. If not, brush in extra heavy coat of paint at all the unprotected cuts.

[Smart]

Flat paint. Minimize the light reflection..

We are in a big square box in the sky or on the ground. We aren't hiding the box from anything. Light reflection, IMO is at the bottom of the totem pole for deer blind exterior paints. Especially one with windows that are already reflecting light to give the big box away.. Give me something with a little more sheen to make it more durable and protected from the sun. The deer and pigs will get used to the box. Satin minimum for me...and a preference to semi-gloss...

[Huntindad]

Give the paint and brushes to kids & let them go to town.

[Hogmauler]

I was working on my stand last week and came up with the idea to put some green u v resistant film over my windows. What do y’all think? Folks I don’t have deer view windows. These are homemade frames with 1/8” plexiglass.
Stick with me y’all I’m not hijacking. I built a 5’x8’ x6’ blind. I had a brainstorm moment. I would use cedar pickets for my roof, caulk the seams, then paint it with a can of $52.00 a gallon valspar exterior paint. I got it for half price. I put three coats on it and installed the roof frame on my stand.
Two weeks later,! I went back. The pickets, and caulk couldn’t withstand the Texas heat. Several seams had separated. The paint didn’t peal.
Round two. I went back with a quart of flex seal and painted over the roof. For the most part the leaks were sealed;however, I have a tarp over the roof now. Hopefully it will carry me through till the winter and I can rethink the roof. I’ve used valspar poops paint on my sides, it was exterior paint, and has weathered the heat well.

[Bassdeer]

Prime and paint, no sealer.

[Mule Skinner]

If you can screw in treated 2X2s onto the roof top around the edges, then a few across the top, you can probably use the sheet metal screws with rubber grommets to secure a corrugated metal roof.

[kmack]

Personally I would think the sealer would work against the latex. Man not even allow it to stick well. But I'm not near that level of a paint expert..

Kind of what I was thinking, but I wasn't sure...figured I'd ask.

Personally I’d probably go to Lowes and buy some exterior oops paint.

The stuff I bought was a dark brown color and a light, pale green. $5 per gallon. I figure it's cheap enough. In a year or two, I'll look at repainting...well, just because.

Absolutely no sealer first. Clean if needed.

Rotting outdoor wood begins at the cuts. Apply some paintable caulk where you can. If not, brush in extra heavy coat of paint at all the unprotected cuts.

I'm planning to caulk all the gaps between the panels. I'm even thinking about 3" wide fence slats to cover the gaps also. Then paint everything. My current 4x4 blind was rebuilt 3 years ago with FRP panels for the outside skin. But I had to replace the floor this year because of the unprotected edges. Trying to avoid that with this one. It's all a learning process.

Give the paint and brushes to kids & let them go to town.

All the kids in our group are 20-24 yrs old. They don't think painting is fun anymore!

Prime and paint, no sealer.

Thanks, that seems to be the consensus and the info I was looking for.

This blind will basically be a condo... 8'x8'x7' tall. I'm eventually going to do a thread about it, but trying to get all my info first. I have already coated the floor panels with wood sealer, both top & bottom. 4 coats each side. The roof panels will be painted, but will have corrugated sheet metal on top. May have to get a few more gallons of paint just to make sure that the layers are thick enough to start with.

[kmack]

If you can screw in treated 2X2s onto the roof top around the edges, then a few across the top, you can probably use the sheet metal screws with rubber grommets to secure a corrugated metal roof.

I actually will have (4) 2'x 8' wooden panels to make up the roof, then corrugated metal on top of that.

Another feature of this blind will be 2" thick foam sections into the roof panels, and along the inside of the walls. Got to make it comfortable!

[Big pig]

You have all the info you need
My two cents:

I paint all the wood before I build. All joints/framed areas!inside and out are painted that way.

I mix my “oops” paint and it usually comes out a blah color. I then use a spray can to make it natural to me. Deer don’t care.
I also try to caulk and put some pieces on the corners to cover the cut edges

Repaint often. Cheaper that a new build.

.

[kmack]

I paint all the wood before I build. All joints/framed areas! inside and out are painted that way.

Because of the size of this thing, I'm currently building in the backyard with the idea to take it back apart for shipment out to the lease. It wouldn't fit on my trailer fully built anyway. It will be reassembled at the deer lease in its new, permanent location.

Good idea about painting before assembly. I will get it mostly painted before I tear it apart, but I will then be able to paint all the edges of each section before it goes back together. That should help even more with sealing everything up.

Thanks.

[kmack]

Anybody have preferences on roller versus spray when painting? I know with a roller you can get it on good and thick. And I don't really have a spraying setup (I know, I just answered my own question...)

[Smart]

Maybe in the initial painting, spray at your home or something might be ok but it’s a roller for me. Out in the feedpen, it just easier. No dragging a generator around. Not worth the cleanup time either. Buy cheap rollers and when done pull it off with a Walmart sack and through it away. Same with a roller pan liner.