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    Dog training

    We've got a 2 year old poodle (Shiner). Very good and smart dog. I am trying to polish him some and recently invested in the sportdog e collar. I've watched Tom Dokken on YouTube. My plan is really to reinforce his Come commands which he ignores when off leash unless he thinks he's getting a treat. He has a few other bad habits I'm trying to break. We love to let him run on our acreage but can't have him chasing cows and ignoring his commands.

    Any pointers are appreciated!

    #2
    Be sure that you accustom him to the collar, IE, let him wear the collar before using it, otherwise he will become “collar wise” and know he can get away with misbehaving when he doesn’t have the collar on

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      #3
      Looks like a heck of a duck dog to me.


      I just sold a Sportdog 425 I had in the classifieds. I think you're on the right track. Takes a lot of time, work/rewards, in conditioning/training a pup. Then occasional work to keep them in top shape. The e-collar is just one of the tools of training. Once "the desire to please" is instilled, the rest of the training will become easier. Using treats is just a way to get his attention of reward for a good behavior. Treats are slowly replaced by verbal commands. This is part of the installation of "the desire to please".



      There's quite a bit to it. I'd suggest getting some good books, or CDs, and reading as much as possible on different techniques of trainers. The more knowledgeable you are, the better you will become successful with pup. The happier both of you will be. You will be able to read pup. And pup will be able to read you.

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        #4
        Originally posted by Texas Grown View Post
        Looks like a heck of a duck dog to me.


        I just sold a Sportdog 425 I had in the classifieds. I think you're on the right track. Takes a lot of time, work/rewards, in conditioning/training a pup. Then occasional work to keep them in top shape. The e-collar is just one of the tools of training. Once "the desire to please" is instilled, the rest of the training will become easier. Using treats is just a way to get his attention of reward for a good behavior. Treats are slowly replaced by verbal commands. This is part of the installation of "the desire to please".



        There's quite a bit to it. I'd suggest getting some good books, or CDs, and reading as much as possible on different techniques of trainers. The more knowledgeable you are, the better you will become successful with pup. The happier both of you will be. You will be able to read pup. And pup will be able to read you.
        That's the model I ended up with. Sorry to hear about your dog loss. I know some people swear by poodles as hunting dogs! Trying to ween him off the treats and substitute with praise. Took him on a walk with the collar (turned off) today so he gets some positive association with it. He needs to be a beta dog and he still has some alpha dog in him I need to break!

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          #5
          Gotta ***** named Lillie with the same issues. (My daughter bought her during her senior year of HS and now is leaving for college and mama is too attached, so she’s staying with us.) She’s trained well, but that hard-headed poodle comes out of the Goldendoodle sometimes and I have to tune her up. I’ve a lot of experience with training and hunting collared dogs, but Lillie is softer than a hippie’s heart and burns easily. I have to be patient and careful with her or she’ll sulk and pout for a day or so. What a diva![emoji849]


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            #6
            I’ve never liked using an e-collar to make a dog come to me, I prefer a 30 foot check cord.


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              #7
              Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
              I’ve never liked using an e-collar to make a dog come to me, I prefer a 30 foot check cord.


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              I use both, but if I could only pick one to reinforce “here”, the check cord would be my pick too.


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                #8
                I believe these are the most important keys to teaching “here”.

                While they are still learning, don’t give the command unless you have a means to make them obey (check cord).

                When teaching “here”, especially to a timid dog, always be cognizant of your posture/body language. They’re 90% more likely to come to you if you kneel down as you give the command.

                “Here” should always end in ear scratchin, and mucho love, even if they didn’t do it exactly as you wanted. Discipline after a successful “here”, is working backward with a young dog.


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                  #9
                  Good advice, Dale. I like checkcords too.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
                    I believe these are the most important keys to teaching “here”.

                    While they are still learning, don’t give the command unless you have a means to make them obey (check cord).

                    When teaching “here”, especially to a timid dog, always be cognizant of your posture/body language. They’re 90% more likely to come to you if you kneel down as you give the command.

                    “Here” should always end in ear scratchin, and mucho love, even if they didn’t do it exactly as you wanted. Discipline after a successful “here”, is working backward with a young dog.
                    Great advice.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
                      I believe these are the most important keys to teaching “here”.

                      While they are still learning, don’t give the command unless you have a means to make them obey (check cord).

                      When teaching “here”, especially to a timid dog, always be cognizant of your posture/body language. They’re 90% more likely to come to you if you kneel down as you give the command.

                      “Here” should always end in ear scratchin, and mucho love, even if they didn’t do it exactly as you wanted. Discipline after a successful “here”, is working backward with a young dog.


                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                      Dokken recommended this exact process. Basically adding the e collar and "here" quick nick of e collar and a 2nd "here".

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by curtintex View Post
                        Gotta ***** named Lillie with the same issues. (My daughter bought her during her senior year of HS and now is leaving for college and mama is too attached, so she’s staying with us.) She’s trained well, but that hard-headed poodle comes out of the Goldendoodle sometimes and I have to tune her up. I’ve a lot of experience with training and hunting collared dogs, but Lillie is softer than a hippie’s heart and burns easily. I have to be patient and careful with her or she’ll sulk and pout for a day or so. What a diva![emoji849]


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        Very similar issues. Wife is scared to shock him. Shiner is a big softee and heart of gold. My two daughters have taught him both to rollover and play dead. He is too smart for his own good, not like those dumb gullible labs!

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                          #13
                          Dog training

                          Originally posted by TeamAmerica View Post
                          Dokken recommended this exact process. Basically adding the e collar and "here" quick nick of e collar and a 2nd "here".

                          I don’t remember Dokken, but I may have read him.

                          The ones that I remember reading and reccomend, are Delmar Smith, and Richard Wolters. I think Wolters was called “Gun Dog”, but I was training pointing dogs. He has another called “water dog”, and I think I read it too. I took things from both, things from my “mentors”, and things I learned by experience…and mixed it all together.

                          Another thing that helps a ton with “here”, especially with yard dogs, is to train them when they don’t know they’re being trained. Whenever the dog is already coming to you of it’s own accord, tell it “here” in an easy voice, and kneel down. As long as the dog keeps coming toward you, keep saying “here”. If they turn, quit and walk off. If the dog likes to play fetch, start saying “here“ when they pick up whatever they are fetching, and do so as long as they are bringing it to you.

                          Dogs are no different than women, it’s a lot easier to get them to do what you want, if they think it was their idea.[emoji6]


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                          Last edited by Dale Moser; 08-11-2022, 07:52 PM.

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                            #14
                            I only really ever used the shock collar if they were about to get in danger, or once they were experienced, if they were just having a day and ignoring commands. Rarely ever with a simultaneous command.

                            Collars are great for experienced dogs, IMO…but they can cause a lot of weird issues with pups. It’s hard to tell what the dog is associating the “shock” with.

                            There are a lot of better dog trainers than me who can do a lot with the collar, and collars have come a long ways, but I still believe there are better ways to train pups.


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                              #15
                              Originally posted by TeamAmerica View Post
                              Very similar issues. Wife is scared to shock him. Shiner is a big softee and heart of gold. My two daughters have taught him both to rollover and play dead. He is too smart for his own good, not like those dumb gullible labs!
                              Tell your wife to train the dog while you go fishing!! Problem solved!!

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