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    Bear Archery Bow advice

    I’m getting back in to traditional archery, and I’ve always liked Bear Bows, so trying to decide what to get.

    I mainly hunt hogs, but I do deer hunt as well. I’m leaning towards the Bear Kodiak for the length of the bow, but was wondering if the Super Grizzly or Grizzly had more punch to them for hog.

    I have a 28” draw length and am looking at going with a 50# draw weight. I used to have a Bear Kodiak Magnum 40# that did pretty good on smaller hogs, never tried it on 100 pound or heavier hogs. TIA

    #2
    How old are you and what is your actual draw length?

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      #3
      I’m 36, draw length is 28”

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        #4
        Virtually any adult sized bow will take down a hog or deer. You say you are getting "back" into traditional archery. What poundage did you shoot before you got out? My point is that if you are really wanting to go full throttle with a trad bow be careful not to overbow yourself starting out. You may shoot a 70# compound but could struggle with accuracy and form with a 50 # recurve. The old 40 # bow you had would take down a hog or deer with no problem with a sharp broadhead and a well tuned and well placed arrow. Most all trad shooters would suggest you start at a lower poundage and work up.

        On the other hand, perhaps a 50# would suit you just fine now. Good luck and enjoy the journey.

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          #5
          Originally posted by 76aggie View Post
          Virtually any adult sized bow will take down a hog or deer. You say you are getting "back" into traditional archery. What poundage did you shoot before you got out? My point is that if you are really wanting to go full throttle with a trad bow be careful not to overbow yourself starting out. You may shoot a 70# compound but could struggle with accuracy and form with a 50 # recurve. The old 40 # bow you had would take down a hog or deer with no problem with a sharp broadhead and a well tuned and well placed arrow. Most all trad shooters would suggest you start at a lower poundage and work up.

          On the other hand, perhaps a 50# would suit you just fine now. Good luck and enjoy the journey.
          I agree, I don’t want to overbow myself, the 40# was a great bow, I used Zwickey Eskimo 2 blades and cut vertebrae easily with them. Am more worried about the hides on a 200-300# boar, so thinking the extra 10# would help.

          Haven’t had a chance to shoot the Kodiak, but have shot the Super Grizzly at 50# with no problems.

          Thanks.

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            #6
            If you are wanting 200-300# boars, the most important aspects you can work on are shot placement and arrow tuning.

            First, you must strive to get the best tuned arrow you can so that you have every ounce of energy you can get pushing that arrow through that big boar.

            Second, you must put the arrow in the right place, way low and tight to the crease for broadside or slightly quartered away boars. If you hit a big boar high in the shield with a 40# or 50# bow, even if you happen to get enough penetration to kill him, you’ll likely never see him again because there won’t be much of a blood trail to follow.

            Good luck! I’d like to see pics of those big boars when you do get them!!!!

            Bisch


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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              #7
              Not me Bisch. That big a pig I'm targeting it with my Carbon Spyder

              Gary

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                #8
                Originally posted by Bisch View Post
                If you are wanting 200-300# boars, the most important aspects you can work on are shot placement and arrow tuning.

                First, you must strive to get the best tuned arrow you can so that you have every ounce of energy you can get pushing that arrow through that big boar.

                Second, you must put the arrow in the right place, way low and tight to the crease for broadside or slightly quartered away boars. If you hit a big boar high in the shield with a 40# or 50# bow, even if you happen to get enough penetration to kill him, you’ll likely never see him again because there won’t be much of a blood trail to follow.

                Good luck! I’d like to see pics of those big boars when you do get them!!!!

                Bisch


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
                Thanks for the advice Bisch. I’ll definitely be posting pictures

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                  #9
                  Paul, if you have your mind set on a Bear bow, by all means get one. There are a lot of really good bows on the market out there. I suggest you visit a local 3D shoot and look around and talk to the archers there. You will be amazed at is what is out there.

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                    #10
                    If you are in good shape, anywhere from 40 to 50 should be fine. If you hit something solid on a hog, I don't think a few pounds difference in draw weight will make that much difference. As said before, arrow placement counts more than draw weight. Get what you can handle and shoot well, actually getting to full draw. Make sure you don't get too short of a bow and get finger pinch, it will cause havoc with your release and accurate, consistent shooting.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by El Paisano View Post
                      If you are in good shape, anywhere from 40 to 50 should be fine. If you hit something solid on a hog, I don't think a few pounds difference in draw weight will make that much difference. As said before, arrow placement counts more than draw weight. Get what you can handle and shoot well, actually getting to full draw. Make sure you don't get too short of a bow and get finger pinch, it will cause havoc with your release and accurate, consistent shooting.
                      What I’ve read about the finger pinch, along with the tendency for the risers to crack, is what’s keeping the SuperMag48 off of my list. The Kodiak is a 60” bow so should be pretty smooth to shoot.

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                        #12
                        I have a 29.5” draw. The only bows that are comfortable for me are 64” and up. The longer the bow the smoother the draw. Also the longer the bow the more of a pia tree stands are. You have to bring your bow to set stands. If you don’t you will be disappointed the first time you draw on a critter. As far as weight, you’ll be the judge of that. All above are right. Don’t overbow yourself. Accuracy is the most important thing. You can’t be too accurate with a bow you can’t handle.

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                          #13
                          All 60" bows are not created equal. The amount of deflex in the riser makes a difference on the string angle at full draw. In a recurve, with my 27.5" draw, I like a 62" for a "short" bow. That said, I currently shoot 66" recurves and 68" longbows. Contrary to what most will tell you, a 66 or 68 inch longbow is surprisingly easy to maneuver.

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                            #14
                            With the finish problems of late, I would pass on the new Bears and get an older one or go with Martin. A Martin Hunter is hard to beat and they sell fairly cheap on the used market. Some of them will be branded as Howatt as the bow started out life as a Howatt Hunter. Martin bought the company back in the early seventies but didn't rebrand the bow until fairly recently. The Hunter has been in production for about sixty-five years now.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 60 Deluxe View Post
                              With the finish problems of late, I would pass on the new Bears and get an older one or go with Martin. A Martin Hunter is hard to beat and they sell fairly cheap on the used market. Some of them will be branded as Howatt as the bow started out life as a Howatt Hunter. Martin bought the company back in the early seventies but didn't rebrand the bow until fairly recently. The Hunter has been in production for about sixty-five years now.
                              I hadn’t heard of any finish issues and couldn’t find anything online other than about a compound bow from 2013-2014. Is this just the traditional bows, or compounds as well? And is it effecting safety of the bows or just aesthetics?

                              Thanks for the heads up.

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