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    First arrow build

    I was gifted about 50 arrows from a very kind and generous gentleman whom I've come to know well over the last few months...I'm new to archery and especially new to building arrows...so I'm hoping to start a thread where I can get help and advice on what else I'll need to make a bunch of really great hunting arrows. I should mention the primary goal of the build will be hunting, but I will end up target practicing a lot...

    My Bow: Obsession Turmoil RZ. It is rated for 350 FPS, but I'm aware that I will never touch 350 as that is achieved through max draw length and max poundage. I am set at 28.5" and 70#.

    My arrows: I was gifted 50 or so Easton XX75 Autumn Hunter 2216. They look old... The fletching on them is plastic, brittle, and falling apart at first touch. They would pretty much need new fletching, nocks, inserts, field tips and broad heads. My only real question here is what do you guys know about Easton XX75? It looks like the 2216 size would be the way to go for the heavy build that I desire at 12 GPI. I believe I would need to cut them down a 1/2" or so as they are a bit long for me... That should give me 350 gr right off the bat. Another question I thought of...Where does Spine play into all this when building a bow? Do I need to measure the spine on these arrows to ensure they would "fit" my bow?

    My broadheads: This could change if I had other recommendations... but I did some research and really like the Annihilator broadhead. They make a 125 gr, which is what I would use.

    My Inserts: Here's where my questions and inexperience really starts. All I know of are brass and stainless steel inserts. Is that all there is? I got to thinking about a Tungsten insert as that is more dense, so more weight would be closer to the end, increasing FOC. But I haven't seen any online. Maybe the slight increase in FOC wouldn't be worth the price... Is brass the way to go? Any links to a good brass insert? How much would be necessary to achieve a high FOC if the arrow is starting out at 350?

    My nocks: I think all 50 arrows have nocks already in them. I was hoping to get lighted nocks for hunting purposes. Are these interchangable without affecting anything? Or, do I need to be hunting with the same exact setup, so I need to use the lighted nocks? Is there anything else I need to know about nocks?

    Fletchings: Oh boy...where to start. Feathers or vanes? I believe waterproof feathers for higher FOC... What size? I was thinking to help steer this heavy arrow, 4"+... 3 or 4 fletches? L or R wing? I don't know anything about fletching.

    Anything else? Thanks everyone...sorry for the long read.

    #2
    Just looking at an old Easton chart I think your 2216 is probably going to be too light for a 70# with 28 1/2" and a 125 gr. BH. and even with a 100 gr. BH.

    Nice gesture, but I think a wrong fit for your bow.

    Interested in hearing other opinions.

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      #3
      He did give me a bow that everything's fits as well. The poundage is probably closer to 40 or 50, so it may end up being my son's first hunting bow. I appreciate reading the whole thing and the advice.
      Last edited by ctom87; 06-06-2020, 08:38 PM.

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        #4
        All adjustable items can be cut to your specifications for an additional charge. Call 980-429-2070 for details.


        Theres some outserts for you to look at

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          #5
          Unfornately, those arrows are far too weak for your current setup. I would shoot them in the other rig as they are a much better fit. As far as the Obsession goes you should have not problem building a 18-19% FOC arrow in the 510-525 grain range which will be a great arrow for you, any quality 300 spine shaft will get you home. If you want to get north of 600 and run in the mid 20's then a 250 is the way to go.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
            Unfornately, those arrows are far too weak for your current setup. I would shoot them in the other rig as they are a much better fit. As far as the Obsession goes you should have not problem building a 18-19% FOC arrow in the 510-525 grain range which will be a great arrow for you, any quality 300 spine shaft will get you home. If you want to get north of 600 and run in the mid 20's then a 250 is the way to go.
            Thank you. I will look for some like you said. Grizzly stick looked impressive but hate the price tag. Thanks again.

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              #7
              Sticks are nice shafts but you can build a hell of an arrow with a lot less coin. The difference in cost between the Tapered Stick and conventional parallel shaft would be better spent on a set of quality cut on contact heads imo.

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                #8
                Originally posted by muddyfuzzy View Post
                Sticks are nice shafts but you can build a hell of an arrow with a lot less coin. The difference in cost between the Tapered Stick and conventional parallel shaft would be better spent on a set of quality cut on contact heads imo.
                My understanding is that spine isn't an industry standard... My question is if a company's spine chart says one thing, would all the weight I want to add at the front change the spine I need?

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                  #9
                  I use nockturnals to hunt with. Doesnt hurt to use one for practice. For fletching, I like bohning heat vanes and aae hybrid 26

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                    #10
                    First arrow build

                    To the best of my knowledge all arrow manufacturers rate the actual measured deflection with the exception being Carbon Express which I believe go the opposite direction. So with that being said static spine is pretty apples to apples across manufacturers.

                    And yes, adding any significant weight generally necessitates going to a stiffer shaft. Manufacturer spine charts are generally conservative and use standard inserts and usually 100 tips for the standard. I should by the charts be in a 350 spine arrow all day long but I run 293 grains up front total so instead I’m in a 300. I get the extra GPI of the the 300 spine vs 350 but more importantly the dynamic spine is near perfect. This aids in ease of tuning and all around better flight imo.

                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                    Last edited by muddyfuzzy; 06-07-2020, 12:36 AM.

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                      #11
                      Ttt... Thinking about black eagle Rampage 10.7 gpi 250 spine. I did buy my annihilator broadheads, 125 grains. The guy at cinnamon creek recommended low profile 2 inch vanes, not feathers, but 4 fletch.

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                        #12
                        I would agree with the 4-fletch since this is a non-vented head. I would look at 2" Blazers.
                        Flex Fletch 3" Silent Knights or Flex Fletch 360's as possible vane choices with as much helical as I could get. I think this vane set up would control the shaft and BH. JM2C's

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                          #13
                          I would agree with the 4-fletch since this is a non-vented head. I would look at 2" Blazers.
                          Flex Fletch 3" Silent Knights or Flex Fletch 360's as possible vane choices with as much helical as I could get. I think this vane set up would control the shaft and BH. JM2C's

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Buddy of mine recommended a 2 blade vs a 3 blade... I didn't think it would matter too much, and since the Annihilator BH's i just bought make a huge hole and don't allow for friction to stop the arrow, I thought it would be best to go this way for deeper penetration...he is saying that it would affect the flight...what's ya'lls thoughts?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by ctom87 View Post
                              Buddy of mine recommended a 2 blade vs a 3 blade... I didn't think it would matter too much, and since the Annihilator BH's i just bought make a huge hole and don't allow for friction to stop the arrow, I thought it would be best to go this way for deeper penetration...he is saying that it would affect the flight...what's ya'lls thoughts?

                              Two blade heads almost always out penetrate a three or four blade head, it’s just the physics. How they fly is completely contingent on the proper arrow, the design itself and lastly the tune on the bow.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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