Looking to build a new blind for next year and they if to build it bigger than the 6x4 we hunt in now boys growing need more leg room. I have a metal frame but was thinking bout a 8x5 or such with 1x3’s to keep it lighter that 2x4’s
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My suggestion would be 2x4’s for the bottom, 2x2’s for the walls, and make it come apart in pieces. Where you can assemble or break down in the field two two people. And go as big as you can. Built an 8x8 this past year and man is it comfortable. Plus I can hunt with my wife, two boys and myself in there and still have plenty room.
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That’s what I was thinking on the base is 2x4’s I hadn’t thot of 2x2’s but had thot of making it modular and bolt it together at the location. Should the walls be 16 inch on center or closer?Comment
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I ripped 2x4 in half for my wall frame. I have 2 6x6 blinds and they are plenty strong enoughComment
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There’s another idea! What did you skin it with plywood or metal? If plywood what thickness did you go with?Comment
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1X3s are too flexible, and will be a reall pain in the ***, especially at seams.
When I built blinds out of wood, I bought #1 2X4s, and ripped them in half to frame with. I always skinned with 3/8” plywood.
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1x3 blind frame help
Plywood is what I would use on the sides.
Youre question of tin brought up a stand my buddy and his fil built. 1” thin wall square tubing with tin sides. About as light and simple as it comes, and theres 0 wood to rot. Only two downfalls are its loud and COLD. But will last forever and is very functional.
I lied slightly, 3/4” plywood on the floor is the only wood in that stand that can rot.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProLast edited by BURTONboy; 01-10-2022, 02:38 PM.Comment
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Thanks for all the pointers I’ve had metal framed blinds for the last 25-30 yearsComment
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This. I've done it this way on a bunch of blinds and it works well.Originally posted by Dale Moser View PostComment
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Agree with ripping your 2x4's to frame it out. 3/4" plywood floor, skin it with metal and insulate it with 1/2" R-techComment
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With as many spray foam companies as there are now, get with one and put your blind on a trailer and take it to their newest job site. Pay for the material and a case a beer. I know a guy that does it and he says the biggest pain is the start up and clean up. If there equipment is already dirty, the payment would reflect it.Comment
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I am planning a 8'x6' blind build. My plan is ripped treated 2x4's for the frame, and 3/8" LP Smartside for the siding. The smartside is a treated OSB looking panel. It is primed on one side, and takes paint nicely. You won't need to paint this every year like plywood. Also, it will not rot like OSB does. It is made to last.Last edited by Palmetto; 01-11-2022, 08:46 AM.Comment
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Look into ZIP board as well. We have a couple made out of ZIP board and sealed with ZIP tape, and they hold paint like a SOB, and last a LONG time. Our outhouse is ZIP board, and un-painted, and still looks brand new after 5 years or so.Originally posted by Palmetto View PostComment
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Good to know. I checked the price, and it's about the same. Looks like BA stuff though. Not sure how one can afford the sheath a house in it!Originally posted by Dale Moser View Post
And I thought materials where expensive in 2008 when I built my house. LOL.
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Any of y’all have any pictures of assembling the framed walls or plan or and old post I can look up. I have lots of great ideas but I’d like to see some pictures if possible. I wanna transport the sides and roof to the stand site and assemble it there. Any shortcuts would helpComment
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