Things a shop should do for you?

[MRWHITE87]

I want to start by clarifying that I am new to archery.
I do not know, what I do not know, but I do not consider myself an unintelligent man, as I typically pick things up relatively quickly.

That said, I Lurked on here for awhile and the concensus seemed to tell me "go to a pro shop and spend the few extra bucks cuz it's worth it."

I did that, I learned a bit, and I bought a bow. Fast forward through a week of backyard shooting, and I've made a couple observations.

The brushes on my octane hostage pro are wearing badly and unevenly. I didn't notice this at the shop but didn't know to look either.
I do not feel like several dozen arrows should result in what I'm seeing, and I BELIEVE my bow was test shot by a "large" number of folks before I ended up with it. I didn't even think to check for that as I was being bombarded with lots of info and trying to absorb as much as possible.
I'm also not sure my peep is at the ideal placement. I make it work but i dunno, maybe it could be optimized further.
[IMG][/IMG]

The salesman/tech that I dealt with was friendly, and he definitely gave me some "honest" answers that I wouldn't have expected to hear from someone selling something. I liked that, as I too run a small business and have been successful primarily due to my high integrity and not bull S--ting folks. (no problems tooting my own horn about those things as the world needs more integrity and fewer BS peddlers)

HOWEVER- I feel like a thread where everyone can share the small things that a newbie wouldn't know to think about would be helpful.

Things like measuring proper peep height, (not just "can you see through it?") checking brushes on containment rests, and sufficiently waxed strings are only what I have pondered. I'm sure you veterans have more little things (pet peeves, or "HACKS"(though I hate that word now)) that you know to take care of and check with the bow tech about before you walk out the door with your new bow. (paper tuning?)


(If this already exists in a thread somewhere, I missed it, but you can tell me I actually AM an unintelligent man, and send me to that thread.)

[treestand]

You can go back to the bow shop and get "free" service such as repositioning your peep. I put free in quotes because you will probably find something you need to buy while there. If you bought a new rest, it does look like it has excessive wear. Might just be a cheap rest. As far as waxing the string, get a little wax and have at it. Doesn't take much or need it often. If the string is getting hairy, it needs waxed.

Do try walk back tuning and or paper tuning. Lots of YouTube video to show you how.

[kd350]

First thing I would do is go back to the shop and have them put a qad drop away and get rid of that rest. You’ll be better off in the long run

Once the peep height is set, I don’t mess with it. Especially if I’m shooting good groups and my consistency is good. I don’t paper tune, it’s a good start; but you’ll get better results with walk back tuning with a fixed blade and bareshaft tuning than just shooting through paper.

Also, don’t always believe what the shop will tell you about arrow/fletch combos. Get you a good fletching jig and play with your fletching combos and see what you and your setup likes best. For me a 4 fletch heat vane with a slight offset flies good and most importantly it’s quiet in flight

Archery is full of rabbit holes... I just try and simplify it and not go down every hole so I don’t drive myself to drinking

[Rat]

Archery is full of rabbit holes... I just try and simplify it and not go down every hole so I don’t drive myself to drinking

But rabbit holes are so much fun, and so is beer!

Most new shooters need points on shooting form rather than the mechanics of the bow.

Peep height is not universal; "so you can see through it" is a valid answer, with some caveats.
1) Draw length must be correct, +- 1/8" can make a difference in shooting.
2) Anchor must be consistent.
3) Head alignment must be consistent.
4) this leads to a perfect peep alignment.

Grip should be on the thumb pad only, relaxed grip, slightly heeled into the bow grip.

Slightly open stance works for most people, but try neutral and closed stances as well. Find your natural point of aim using stance not the bow arm. This usually works bets for new shooters, you can try other biomechanical forms later. If you wear glasses you probably want a little more open stance to keep from looking across the bridge of the eyeglasses.

NEVER draw your bow without an arrow in it and pointed in a safe direction; even if just checking cam rotation, or d-loop placement or whatever.

NEVER Draw your bow without a release aid; this can easily lead to derailment on let down.

Wax your strings when they get a little fuzzy, or after every third practice session, or after it has been in a rainstorm, or never. There are several pros that never wax their strings, but they change them often.

I change my strings once a year (or pretty close), but I shoot 6,000-10,000 arrows a year, give or take.

kd350 is right, get rid of that containment rest and get a good drop away; I prefer limb driven, but there are a bunch of good rests out there.

Keep the cam tracks clean, don't get them dinged up.

Get you a bow stand, pine ridge makes good stands that are adjustable.

A little string wax on the screws will keep them from seizing up in the aluminum riser.

A little blue loctite will keep the screws in the rotating modules from backing out on ya.

If something sounds loose, there is probably something loose. Use a small rubber mallet to lightly tap things to find the offender.

If you are having trouble with something specific when it comes to form, find a coach. The interwebs are great, but there is no substitute for a good one on one session.

There's no way to cover everything, just do a search for your problem or ask specific questions.

[MRWHITE87]

Those are all great bits of knowledge. I appreciate the input. Honestly.

My thinking was more about the small things that the shop CAN do at the "fitting" that a beginner like myself wouldn't necessarily think of. Maybe I'm just not as smart as I think I am and everyone else notices those details. lol

I'm definitely looking into a drop away rest now. I was led to believe that there was a much larger learning curve than I seem to be experiencing before I would be ready to upgrade to the "big boy" rests. I don't think I'll be heading back to THAT same shop though. I feel like at this point, I could install and sight my new accessories the same as I would with my rifles.

Probably should just get a cup of coffee and go be the annoying guy that stands around the pro-shop in everyone's way, eavesdropping on everything. lol

[Miller]

You have already gotten great advice. All I can add is that is a REALLY low grade rest. You would be better served with even a whisker biscuit than that. I would personally avoid the QAD and go with a Vapor Trail or Hamskea... limb driven rest. That will just help to eliminate the rest getting out of the way of the arrow.

This doesn't involve the bow shop, but I would go and watch some John Dudley videos. He has some good ones for starting archery and then he did a great 12 part series a few months back.

I would also go and get a decent release like a Carter if you are going to go with a wrist strap. I so wish I had done all of these things when I got starter years ago. You will be so far ahead of the game with not built in bad habits.

[Radar]

Those are all great bits of knowledge. I appreciate the input. Honestly.

My thinking was more about the small things that the shop CAN do at the "fitting" that a beginner like myself wouldn't necessarily think of. Maybe I'm just not as smart as I think I am and everyone else notices those details. lol

I'm definitely looking into a drop away rest now. I was led to believe that there was a much larger learning curve than I seem to be experiencing before I would be ready to upgrade to the "big boy" rests. I don't think I'll be heading back to THAT same shop though. I feel like at this point, I could install and sight my new accessories the same as I would with my rifles.

Probably should just get a cup of coffee and go be the annoying guy that stands around the pro-shop in everyone's way, eavesdropping on everything. lol

I am far from being an expert or pro, but you stated in your first post that you have been backyard shooting for a week. I really think you should take your bow back to the shop you bought it from and show them the rest, and let them do a paper tune to your bow using your arrows. That rest may need to be moved down, but a paper tune will lead them in the right direction.

I also think you should let them look at your form and release, and let them give you a few suggestions. They will know right away if your peep is out of align by watching your head when you get to your anchor points.

Personally, I would not change the rest on your bow till you get a your form and release down and get comfortable shooting. Keep everything real simple in the beginning, changing your set ups when you first start out usually creates "other bad habits".

[HighwayHunter]

Point your bow towards the target, then draw the string back to the face and put your hand in the natural anchor position. If you have to bend or extend your neck to see your sight through your peep, it needs to be moved. As someone else said on this thread, get rid of the whisker biscuit and buy the QAD HDX. Great rest. My shop does a lot of free stuff for me, and I spend a lot of money there. That’s kind of the trade off. The more I go and pay for range time, arrows, etc the less I pay for extensive fine tuning and things of that nature. Your shop may not be that way, but it’s good to make friends with the employees.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Smart]

Just go back to your bow shop. Tell them the two problems and they should fix it. As a newbie, its going to take time to fine tune everything. They'll move and retie your peep in and check your rest (I agree with getting a drop away though). The worst thing you can do is not go back in.

and I BELIEVE my bow was test shot by a "large" number of folks before I ended up with it.

Unless you bought a display model with all the accessories already on it, I doubt this happened. There is no real reason for somebody to shoot your bow a LARGE amount of times in a bow shop with that rest except the bow tech trying to tune it. Have them check it with your peep....

[jds247]

I suggest making several trips to the bow shop so you get to know the tech.. we have a great shop 10 min from my house.. I ordered my bow and told them what I wanted to use as far as rest sight etc and he had it paper tuned when I got there.. we set my peep and added a sling and I was ready to go.. 45 min in the back yard and I'm good out to 50 yards.. just go in and ask questions if they are a good dealer they will answer any you have. Let them know you are new to bow hunting and I bet they will be more helpful..

[MRWHITE87]

oh I'm certain it was a display model, and it was shot by others before me.
I was so caught up in absorbing all the info they were telling me , I didn't step back and analyze further, I blindly followed the conversation I was led down as I was told a few things that made great sense. my own fault.
I'm not unhappy with the bow, just wanted to see what else I haven't thought of yet, after I had time to think over the experience more.

I'm not having real problems staying on target either, after I adjusted the sight and rest a bit so it's shooting well now. I am absolutely switching to a drop away within the next week or 2, pending shipping times (I supported the local profit margins on the big purchase already so I don't feel bad saving a few bucks now lol)

I'm definitely looking at handheld releases too, but that may wait several weeks.
I don't care what anyone says, archery is NOT cheaper than playing with rifles, even at "entry level". lol

[kingranch]

looks like your vanes are hitting the bottom... that happens when the arrow is not inserted with the top vane up at 12 oclock on that rest... no other way for that part of the rest to get marred up like it is

[jds247]

oh I'm certain it was a display model, and it was shot by others before me.
I was so caught up in absorbing all the info they were telling me , I didn't step back and analyze further, I blindly followed the conversation I was led down as I was told a few things that made great sense. my own fault.
I'm not unhappy with the bow, just wanted to see what else I haven't thought of yet, after I had time to think over the experience more.

I'm not having real problems staying on target either, after I adjusted the sight and rest a bit so it's shooting well now. I am absolutely switching to a drop away within the next week or 2, pending shipping times (I supported the local profit margins on the big purchase already so I don't feel bad saving a few bucks now lol)

I'm definitely looking at handheld releases too, but that may wait several weeks.
I don't care what anyone says, archery is NOT cheaper than playing with rifles, even at "entry level". lol

I tried the thumb release and went back to my wrist release.. after 20 years it's hard for me to change.. I like having use of my release hand without dropping the release .. try before you buy because they aren't cheap

[Hoggslayer]

Now you know why others say to get a drop away rest.
You can read all the knowledge you want but it doesn't make sense until you have a frame of reference.

“Wisdom cannot be imparted. Wisdom that a wise man attempts to impart always sounds like foolishness to someone else ... Knowledge can be communicated, but not wisdom. One can find it, live it, do wonders through it, but one cannot communicate and teach it.”

― Hermann Hesse

[Smart]

oh I'm certain it was a display model, and it was shot by others before me.
I was so caught up in absorbing all the info they were telling me , I didn't step back and analyze further, I blindly followed the conversation I was led down as I was told a few things that made great sense. my own fault.

In the world of bowshops, most every bow in the shop is a display model. If they fit the potential buyer, they get shot. And unless you request to order one, there is a good chance you are going to get a bow that has been shot if you buy one that is there on the rack. Its very normal if you buy one they have already. Most shops can't afford to hold hundreds of bow in a storage room while waiting on a potential buyer.



In my previous post I thought you were referring to your bow and rest as bought new and when they set it up for you later, they shot it a lot before you came back in to pick it up. Are you saying the rest was not new and the brushes were beat up like that before you bought it too?