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    Bareshaft tuning questions

    Just now decided to start shooting again after the deer mishap at the end of deer season.

    Shot the Grizzly for a few shots and then decided to break out the Kodiak. I really appreciate the Grizzly for being a reliable, accurate and smooth shooting bow, but I am really enamored but the Kodiak, love it’s look, feel and speed. Anyway, I’m expecting this to be my main hunting bow. In late December I ordered some 400 spine black eagle instinct arrows with a 100 grain outsert and a 150 grain point.

    Ever since I got these arrows, the arrows seemed to fly wonky out of them. I didn’t hunt with it due to this but I do want to transition to this bow being my go-to so I decided to shoot a few bareshafts to see what was up. Shot two arrows in a decent group. Stripped the fletching off the third arrow and shot. Arrow hit high, knock high and cocked to the right, say 2 o’clock.

    Adjusted the nock point down and got some pretty wonky arrow flight….to be honest thru all looked wonky coming off the bow. Moved nock down then started working it back up. Was able to get it hitting in the other two, even with the perceived arrow fight being pretty bad.


    My question….what should I look for when bare shaft turning? I’ve heard two different answers

    #2
    Some of my shots:




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      #3



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        #4



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          #5



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            #6



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              #7
              Is it really nock high or low nock causing it to kick off the shelf? That aspect needs to be addressed first imo. I'd add 25 grains if right handed or subtract thatvor trim if left handed.

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                #8
                I’m left handed….so do you suggest subtracting 25 grains? As it sits my arrows are 553 grains

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                  #9
                  Also I will add it had a feather rest, not shooting off the shelf.

                  Don’t know if that matters or not

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                    #10
                    Kick right means weak. Doesn't look like a lot. I'd subtract 25 grains. But nock up or down needs to be addressed first in my opinion. How far back are you from target and can you see the arrow flight? I can tell better the further back I get on the nock setting just watching the arrow and listening.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by DRT View Post
                      Kick right means weak. Doesn't look like a lot. I'd subtract 25 grains. But nock up or down needs to be addressed first in my opinion. How far back are you from target and can you see the arrow flight? I can tell better the further back I get on the nock setting just watching the arrow and listening.

                      Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
                      I’m shouting at around 15 yards.

                      From that distance thr arrow looks like it’s coming out sideways but I know that is not the case

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                        #12
                        Nock fit plays a big role in clean flight. Also, plucking the string can make the arrow fly funky. I personally like my bareshaft to be slightly nock high because with my point weight. If I get my bareshaft flying level the fletching will sometimes bounce off the shelf.

                        I actually like my bareshaft to fly slightly high and very slightly weak... but hitting with my fletched arrows.

                        An iPhone is your best friend... set it up above your head (kneel if you have to) and film in slow mo... You will see exactly what the arrow is doing.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by PigOPs View Post
                          Nock fit plays a big role in clean flight. Also, plucking the string can make the arrow fly funky. I personally like my bareshaft to be slightly nock high because with my point weight. If I get my bareshaft flying level the fletching will sometimes bounce off the shelf.

                          I actually like my bareshaft to fly slightly high and very slightly weak... but hitting with my fletched arrows.

                          An iPhone is your best friend... set it up above your head (kneel if you have to) and film in slow mo... You will see exactly what the arrow is doing.
                          This is flying with my fletched arrows....I really don't want to go back to my 125 grain heads, wanted this set up to be around 550 grains all in which is where I am at now.

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                            #14
                            If you correct the nock high the weak show may correct some as well. It's not much but if you're seeing it in flight then it is an issue. Now can form and release "show" something out of sorts? Yes but normally it isn't consistent in it's manifestation. Wanna keep the heavier point start trimming an 8th of an inch until it straightens out.

                            Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by DRT View Post
                              If you correct the nock high the weak show may correct some as well. It's not much but if you're seeing it in flight then it is an issue. Now can form and release "show" something out of sorts? Yes but normally it isn't consistent in it's manifestation. Wanna keep the heavier point start trimming an 8th of an inch until it straightens out.

                              Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
                              I tried the 125 grain points…..seemed to correct the flight quite a bit. Thank you for the tip. Gonna adjust nock point from here

                              I assume I’m not giving up much performance wise with the 125 grain points and 100 grain outsert ?

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