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    #16
    I tried figuring out FOC but what I come up w/is 900. Is that 9%? Arrow balances @ 16.5". OAL is 27.

    100x(16.5-27/2)=900?????

    If it IS 9% than it is perfect.

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      #17
      Originally posted by clffrdfdge View Post
      You popping your forearm like that sounds like your draw length maybe a little to long. Hope your arm gets better soon.
      It was purely a mistake on MY part, I wasn't paying attention to that aspect due to focusing solely on my grip @ that time. My DL is 26.5( I know, I know.... they call me T-Rex arms @ work but them suckers are strong!!!)

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        #18
        Originally posted by LFD2037 View Post
        I tried figuring out FOC but what I come up w/is 900. Is that 9%? Arrow balances @ 16.5". OAL is 27.

        100x(16.5-27/2)=900?????

        If it IS 9% than it is perfect.
        I think you missed a component in your caculation:

        100x(16.5-27/2)/27=11.11%

        AMO-Standard F.O.C. balance formula: %FOC = (100x(A-L/2))/L

        Total Length (L)
        Nock to Balance Point (A)

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          #19
          Thanks! Is this good or bad? Do I need to change from 100gr. tips to 125's? I'm using Easton ST-Epic N-Fused arrows @ 8.9GPI - 400.

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            #20
            worrying about FOC now is a bit premature IMO. Until you can shoot the same every time you pick up your bow, then you are worrying about the wrong things. Focusing on your grip then hitting your arm, spraying shots by moving back 10 yards and things like that are sure indicators of form issues, and not being able to repeat the shot process every time. Make sure your anchor is the sme every time, and your view through the peep is the same also. And the number one thing to remember for a new archer IMO is to keep your bow in place after the shot, and do not look to see where you hit until after your arrow has hit the target!! It will come to you, but you should focus on smaller things first.

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              #21
              Originally posted by LFD2037 View Post
              Thanks! Is this good or bad? Do I need to change from 100gr. tips to 125's? I'm using Easton ST-Epic N-Fused arrows @ 8.9GPI - 400.
              Trust me..I am no expert so I am not going to say what the ideal percentage may be but from what I have seen, if you fall between 7 and 15% I think your good. And being at 11.11% seems to be almost in the center. If you have access to some 125 grain BH you may just give it a try. Also keep in mind that the FOC is just one of many components that could effect your arrow flight and grouping. Good luck!

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                #22
                I will try here, be patient. Your rest might be the problem. We are going to ask for the setup to be right. Your arrows, right spine, your grip, no torque, tiller adjusted and the strings are good. Now learn to "walk back tune". Most of the time if you hit same spot on the right or left it is the rest but sometimes the group just spreads. So learn how to walk back tune and see if this helps.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by bowhuntntxn View Post
                  worrying about FOC now is a bit premature IMO. Until you can shoot the same every time you pick up your bow, then you are worrying about the wrong things. Focusing on your grip then hitting your arm, spraying shots by moving back 10 yards and things like that are sure indicators of form issues, and not being able to repeat the shot process every time. Make sure your anchor is the sme every time, and your view through the peep is the same also. And the number one thing to remember for a new archer IMO is to keep your bow in place after the shot, and do not look to see where you hit until after your arrow has hit the target!! It will come to you, but you should focus on smaller things first.
                  I completely agree.
                  My personal demon is grabbing my bow at the shot, and causing deviation with the path of the string, sending arrows astray, mostly left.

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                    #24
                    Walk back tune, until now, has been perfect. WBT was my starting point. I tend to overthink things in a BIG way. I keep telling myself that people have been killing things w/bows for hundreds, maybe thousands, of years & it really SHOULDN'T be this difficult. I'm starting to think this whole bow hunting thing may be made out to be WAAAAAAAAAAAAY more complex than it actually is?????? BUT like I said I tend to overhtink things so maybe I'm overthinking the simplicity of the complexity of this whole situation???

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                      #25
                      Relax your grip to prevent torquing the bow. I only have my left thumb and index finger touching the grip when I have my bow light on as a stabilizer. With a regular stabilizer my fingers are all open and relaxed (no torque). There are several youtube vids about gripping. Check them out...

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                        #26
                        Cheak your rest they come a little loose sometimes and can make you shoot all over the place sights will get you the same way to.
                        MIke

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Sixpack View Post
                          Relax your grip to prevent torquing the bow. I only have my left thumb and index finger touching the grip when I have my bow light on as a stabilizer. With a regular stabilizer my fingers are all open and relaxed (no torque). There are several youtube vids about gripping. Check them out...
                          The bowhand is the worst culprit with poor grouping. However you grip the bow, it has to be easy to repeat and be relaxed. It is difficult to explain how the grip being relaxed at full draw, but when you get there the groups will come in.

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                            #28
                            shot small miss small.

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