Looking for Suggestions - Metal Building Interior Finish Out

[Aggiechick]

Okay - so got a metal building built to use an another living space. I planned to have the contractor finish out the interior with framing and drywall but due to the width of the bracing, I am loosing at least 8 inches of width from each wall (if I frame and then include drywall). I thought about going the plywood/sheating route, but I have straps leading from the ceiling down to the foundation, so that is out of the question; and I have cross cables (which I never saw in the drawings) along the longest portions of the building.

Any suggestions on what to do? This building is built to withstand a Cat 4 apparently, but gosh dang it, I have no idea what to do, and the sad thing is I can not trust my contractor to provide any suggestions (he just says, "don't worry about anything, it will work out").

[Scubasteveo]

Have them frame the wall inside the purlins, make your sheetrock or plywood finish sit flush against the purlin. We do it all the time to help minimize the exterior wall thickness.

[tpack]

(he just says, "don't worry about anything, it will work out").

Does he winks at you real big when he say that ?

https://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1048763&stc=1&d=1620409485s

[Aggiechick]

Have them frame the wall inside the purlins, make your sheetrock or plywood finish sit flush against the purlin. We do it all the time to help minimize the exterior wall thickness.

Sent you a PM Scubasteveo.

tpack - almost

[Daddy D]

You can frame inside the wall girts as mentioned above. But it is cheaper/faster to frame a single stud wall on the inside face of the girt and then sheetrock it. You would only be sacrificing 4 1/8" of room space. That's not a lot.

[RWB]

I am not understanding what strap they used on the building. Attached is a Pic of mine with just plywood screwed to the purlin. I did anchor a 2x4 base plate to the floor with red head anchors.

[Aggiechick]

The purlin is already 8 inches wide so I am losing 8 inches so I am already losing 13 sqft of space. Here is the strap in question. Heck, I was not turning this into a living space I would have built in storage shelving.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

[Daddy D]

Lol man... what did you think the walls were gonna be framed out of? Invisible members?

[Take Dead Aim]

Lol man... what did you think the walls were gonna be framed out of? Invisible members?

AggieChick please don't take offense to this... Exactly why I don't do residential. Can't tell you how many times I have heard "I didn't know it was going to look like that" or "I thought it was going to be a different shade". Commercial is so much better.

[DirtyDave]

Those cables are usually just for construction to pull everything square. Once the sheet metal is on, they dont do anything for ya.
Most builders just leave them on because they dont see any reason to take the time to remove them

[RWB]

OK see what your talking about. On mine the purlin had cutouts for the cable to run inside the purlin not on the outside. If you wanted to leave the cable you could punch holes in the purlin to run them through. I don't have the vertical strap but it looks pretty thin and you could probably lay plywood right over or build stud walls right inside the purlin.

[RWB]

Pic of building stud wall

[Aggiechick]

That is perfect! Thanks RWB.

No offense taken Take Dead Aim. I just never realized how wide those were going to be. I should have asked more questions, but it will be good once it is all done.

[RDT]

Put angle iron on the floor like is on the metal skin . Lay 2 x 4 s flat against the perlins
and use screws to fasten them . Add 8 inch insulation between perlins . Put in a laying
ceiling . done