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Old 04-18-2022, 02:25 PM   #1
bowfishin fool
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Default Sucker rods as rebar??

Steph and I were wanting to build a small pavilion to entertain/dance on.. 20x30 or 30x30

One of the ideas I had was to pour the concrete myself, and use sucker rod instead of rebar.. I have plenty of 5/8 sucker rod I can use… do I have to have rebar, or will this work fine?


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Old 04-18-2022, 02:31 PM   #2
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Seems like it would work, but you might want to look at selling the sucker rod and buying rebar. I'm sure the sucker rod is more expensive per lb.
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Old 04-18-2022, 02:47 PM   #3
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I'm thinking you'd want rebar with its rough surface so that it anchors within the concrete.
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Old 04-18-2022, 02:48 PM   #4
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I'm thinking you'd want rebar with its rough surface so that it anchors within the concrete.
This. I would assume sucker rod is way too slick
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Old 04-18-2022, 03:11 PM   #5
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For something that small I would just go fiber reinforced concrete and forget the rebar. I have a 25 x 25 carport the has had a diesel F250 and a Honda Accord on it for the last 6 years and it doesn't have a single crack. It's 5 1/2" thick and the only footers are were I put my weld plates. Not a single beam in it.
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Old 04-18-2022, 03:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El General View Post
Seems like it would work, but you might want to look at selling the sucker rod and buying rebar. I'm sure the sucker rod is more expensive per lb.
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Originally Posted by BernieH View Post
I'm thinking you'd want rebar with its rough surface so that it anchors within the concrete.
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Originally Posted by TexasBob View Post
This. I would assume sucker rod is way too slick

Add these three up... best advice!! The shape of re-bar is what it is for a reason... keeps the concrete from sliding up and down on the re-bar... Sucker rod is made to have a smooth finish so it will slide smoothly back and forth through the pack-off without wearing the packing down... consequently it won't allow the concrete to adhere to it and hold it steady/keep it from moving/cracking...
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Old 04-18-2022, 03:18 PM   #7
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Use rebar and do it right. You are talking $600 in rebar for a 30 x 30.
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Old 04-18-2022, 04:02 PM   #8
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If it isn’t going to be heavy load bearing, consider remesh instead of rebar. And make sure you put down a vapor barrier before pouring
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Old 04-18-2022, 04:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by SaltwaterSlick View Post
Add these three up... best advice!! The shape of re-bar is what it is for a reason... keeps the concrete from sliding up and down on the re-bar... Sucker rod is made to have a smooth finish so it will slide smoothly back and forth through the pack-off without wearing the packing down... consequently it won't allow the concrete to adhere to it and hold it steady/keep it from moving/cracking...
That won't matter. Rebar is for load transfer.

My point is that 5/8 sucker rod is overkill for something that only needs 3/8 rebar.
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Old 04-18-2022, 04:13 PM   #10
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If it isn’t going to be heavy load bearing, consider remesh instead of rebar. And make sure you put down a vapor barrier before pouring
Mesh is more expensive than rebar right now.
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Old 04-18-2022, 06:25 PM   #11
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No ridges on sucker rods.
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Old 04-18-2022, 07:16 PM   #12
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I'm really surprised no one has asked what the substrate is. Really makes a difference. Forgive my ignorance but I'm not familiar with Cuero.
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Old 04-18-2022, 07:48 PM   #13
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If it was me at my house with free rod.I would use the rod and get fiberglass mix in the concrete.Good sub grade and that combo will carry a lot of weight for a long long time.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:33 PM   #14
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Sell the sucker rod and buy rebar and spent the rest on refreshments.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:40 PM   #15
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Rebar holds the concrete together with its ridges, sucker rod is to slick.
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Old 04-18-2022, 08:41 PM   #16
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That won't matter. Rebar is for load transfer.
.

Rebar adds tension strength to concrete. Concrete is extremely strong in compression but not in tension unless a bar that it can bond to or post tension cables are added.

OP, do yourself a favor and go #3 bars or mesh, if you use mesh shrill put bars in your beams.
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Old 04-18-2022, 09:20 PM   #17
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Rebar does not ensure against movement or hairline cracks. For what your doing use what you have on hand. There are slabs all over the state with way less.

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Old 04-18-2022, 09:34 PM   #18
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I always love the comments, use fiber mesh instead of rebar! Lol
Fiber is an additive, not a replacement for reinforcement.
Trust me, been doing concrete for nearly 30 years. Everything from residential to industrial. If you can draw it on a print Ive probably done it.
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Old 04-18-2022, 09:44 PM   #19
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Sucker rod would work fine, if your worried about not being textured…..get a grinder and texture it but not necessary. Hell, toss rocks in the Crete as well
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Old 04-18-2022, 10:09 PM   #20
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I always love the comments, use fiber mesh instead of rebar! Lol
Fiber is an additive, not a replacement for reinforcement.
Trust me, been doing concrete for nearly 30 years. Everything from residential to industrial. If you can draw it on a print Ive probably done it.
I agree with my original statement and 100% agree with Randy. Having poured everything from sidewalk to tilt wall buildings and just about everything in between. For some reason on TBH people like to cut corners on concrete.
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Old 04-19-2022, 06:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Take Dead Aim View Post
I agree with my original statement and 100% agree with Randy. Having poured everything from sidewalk to tilt wall buildings and just about everything in between. For some reason on TBH people like to cut corners on concrete.

Wait that didn’t answer my question?! If yallve done a ton of it…. Sucker rod or rebar?

I don’t mind buying the rebar, just had a free resources and thought it might be comparable


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Old 04-19-2022, 07:05 AM   #22
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I would not use rebar in place of sucker rod!
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Old 04-19-2022, 07:42 AM   #23
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I would not use rebar in place of sucker rod!
I agree with this. Rebar downhole is a mess. :-)
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Old 04-19-2022, 08:05 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by bowfishin fool View Post
Wait that didn’t answer my question?! If yallve done a ton of it…. Sucker rod or rebar?

I don’t mind buying the rebar, just had a free resources and thought it might be comparable


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Do it right and Use rebar….
Anyone that’s says differently has limited experience imo

If I was pouring concrete for myself and had free sucker rods I’d sell the rods and buy rebar.
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Old 04-19-2022, 08:14 AM   #25
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Sorry, Not trying to sound arrogant. You wouldn’t believe some of the stuff I’ve seen over the years where I was paid to go behind someone else and fix or redo what they tried to cut corners on and save money. Every Tom ,****, and Harry that has ever helped a buddy, cousin, friend, uncle , or ect.. pour more than a yard of concrete is now a professional and quick to give out free and crappy advice. I’ve thrown away more engineered prints in one day than most people seen in their entire life and not one single time have I ever seen an approval for slick rods or fiber in place of proper reinforcement.
And yes… I’ve tore up and replaced concrete that had sucker rods in it as well.
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Old 04-19-2022, 08:15 AM   #26
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I'd go for the textured rebar. The fact is, rebar doesn't keep concrete from cracking, it keeps the cracks from opening up when it does, so the textured surface helps with that. I'd probably sell the sucker rod and buy some rebar.
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Old 04-19-2022, 08:38 AM   #27
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Rebar doesn’t bind concrete with its ridges. Concrete is bound laterally by the waffle like structure created by mat reinforcing. If reinforcing needed ridges, post tension wouldn’t work. Concrete doesn’t adhere naturally to steel at all.

OP, 5/8” bar is too heavy for most slab reinforcing requirements and will promote certain types of dry shrinkage cracking because it is too stiff. Sell your sucker rod for scrap, buy the rebar you need, and pocket the profit.
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Old 04-19-2022, 10:02 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El General View Post
Rebar doesn’t bind concrete with its ridges. Concrete is bound laterally by the waffle like structure created by mat reinforcing. If reinforcing needed ridges, post tension wouldn’t work. Concrete doesn’t adhere naturally to steel at all.

OP, 5/8” bar is too heavy for most slab reinforcing requirements and will promote certain types of dry shrinkage cracking because it is too stiff. Sell your sucker rod for scrap, buy the rebar you need, and pocket the profit.
Think about what you just said..
Rebar is designed the way it is for a reason. Go stick you a piece of rebar in a bucket of wet concrete and let it cure and then try to pull it out.
Also post tension slabs are not held together but the “waffle” pattern of the cables. (Post tension cables are lubed and encased so they can freely move when stressed) it is the tension applied that holds the structure together.
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Old 04-19-2022, 10:11 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Madden View Post
Think about what you just said..
Rebar is designed the way it is for a reason. Go stick you a piece of rebar in a bucket of wet concrete and let it cure and then try to pull it out.
Also post tension slabs are not held together but the “waffle” pattern of the cables. (Post tension cables are lubed and encased so they can freely move when stressed) it is the tension applied that holds the structure together.

Pt slabs will still have tradition rebar reinforcing too.

OP, I’m a commercial GC. Randy knows what he’s talking about. Just get some rebar.


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Old 04-19-2022, 10:20 AM   #30
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Isn't most of the soil around Cuero Heavy Clay? If so, don't scrimp on the materials. Do it right the first time. Clay expands and contracts excessively depending on moisture so you want a material that's going to hold together with soil movement.
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Old 04-19-2022, 10:28 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by bowfishin fool View Post
Wait that didn’t answer my question?! If yallve done a ton of it…. Sucker rod or rebar?

I don’t mind buying the rebar, just had a free resources and thought it might be comparable


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I had already answered your question in post #7. Rebar.
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Old 04-19-2022, 10:33 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Randy Madden View Post
Think about what you just said..
Rebar is designed the way it is for a reason. Go stick you a piece of rebar in a bucket of wet concrete and let it cure and then try to pull it out.
Also post tension slabs are not held together but the “waffle” pattern of the cables. (Post tension cables are lubed and encased so they can freely move when stressed) it is the tension applied that holds the structure together.
Thank you. Saved me a bunch of typing. Also on post tension there is a reason you can cut the cable. They are under tension and adjustable. They a slick in design so that they do move inside of the slab.
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Old 04-19-2022, 10:48 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Isn't most of the soil around Cuero Heavy Clay? If so, don't scrimp on the materials. Do it right the first time. Clay expands and contracts excessively depending on moisture so you want a material that's going to hold together with soil movement.

Part of why we put our house in this location is it’s on a good pea gravel vein!

Thanks for the consideration/advice fellas

Anybody wanna buy some sucker rod?!?! Just kidding I’ll use it for an arena


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Old 04-19-2022, 12:22 PM   #34
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Rebar works great for applications that require rebar.
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Old 04-19-2022, 12:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El General View Post
Rebar doesn’t bind concrete with its ridges. Concrete is bound laterally by the waffle like structure created by mat reinforcing. If reinforcing needed ridges, post tension wouldn’t work. Concrete doesn’t adhere naturally to steel at all.

This is amazingly poorly thought out!


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Old 04-19-2022, 02:30 PM   #36
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Rebar works great for applications that require rebar.
Who'da thunk it?
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Old 04-19-2022, 03:04 PM   #37
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Rebar works great for applications that require rebar.

Well then it seems settled that this application requires rebar..


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Old 04-20-2022, 05:08 PM   #38
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Well then it seems settled that this application requires rebar..


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No……it doesn’t, but if it makes you feel better go ahead.


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Old 04-20-2022, 06:41 PM   #39
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No……it doesn’t, but if it makes you feel better go ahead.


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I would use rebar and do 5-51/2" of concrete. How thick is the pea gravel vein? A boring would be beneficial to determine ....... no, no, no. Overthinking this. I'm sure you have a house beside this planned project, what is the foundation for this and have you had problems with it?
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