Water Supply Question: New home build

[175gr7.62]

So I have 40ac in Harrison county and it’s time to start the plans for the final home. This was my grandpaw’s property and it has his house on it but we are going to rent it out and build a nice house further back into the property. There is a good well at the house and there is also co-op water.

Our proposed house site is about 1100ft from the well. Co-op water is tied in there also so you switch back and forth as needed. It’s $5k for a new meter install to run Co-op water to the new spot and about $14k for a well. I am adamant about having well water at the new place.

I haven’t checked co-op pressure at the meter yet to run the calculations for that long of a run but I had another idea this afternoon while shredding.

What if I ran 1 1/2” from the wellhouse the 1100ft to the new house and then put in a 500gal tank with a booster pump? The waterline cost is a wash…I have to run that anyway. It would save me the $5k for a new meter and $14k for the well. I would think we would turn the water over pretty quick so it wouldn’t just be sitting in the tank, the booster pump would give plenty of pressure to feed the house. Even with a lot of friction head over that distance the tank could fill at night when we aren’t using any water.

500gal seems like a lot of water for a family of 3….and the punk will be gone in a couple more years so it will just be me and the devil woman after that.


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[southtx]

Go with the water meter. My meter is about 1300ft from my house. I ran 2 inch pvc and have no issues with water pressure. My place is is pretty flat with no elevation changes. Hopes this helps.

[RedBear78]

It sounds like your a genius.As long as you have any kind of pressure and volume that will work fine.If you have enough pressure at your well using 1.5 pipe you may not need a holding tank at the new house.Unless your filling a pool or irrigating residential fixtures use small volumes of water.

[DallasCoon12]

Check out the Grundfos MQ3-45 pressure booster pump. Pressure switch and buffer are built in. We did this exact setup for a customer. Used a regular tank float in the top of storage tank that was filled by a well on the other side of the property. Then piped out of the bottom of storage tank in Grundfos pump, filter and softener, then on to house with both treated and untreated lines. Has worked flawlessly.

[9452772]

If you drill a well or run a line from the old well. Run it into a tank with booster pump. Instead of 500 gallons I would go 1,500 gallons or more. This would allow for more options in the future plus standby water in the event of well pump failure or power outage.


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[175gr7.62]

If you drill a well or run a line from the old well. Run it into a tank with booster pump. Instead of 500 gallons I would go 1,500 gallons or more. This would allow for more options in the future plus standby water in the event of well pump failure or power outage.


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My thought was to tie the co-op and well into it. I have standby power. If the well and co-op water both go down at the same time, which seems unlikely, I figure we are in a SHTF scenario and we’ll boil water out of the pond and creek.


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[Draco]

The difference in tank sizes is not that much. I would go with 2500 gallon tank. All wells around here are set up like that. It is common where wells don't produce a lot of water. Be sure to put a well saver on your well, have every thing enclosed in a well house that is insulated. Also put in a large pressure tank, at least a 100 gallon.

[kingranch]

I run a 500 gallon tank to my constant pressure valve w cycle stop/booster pump
Cheapest most reliable setup out there in my opinion

https://cyclestopvalves.com/?matchtype=e&network=g&device=m&adposition=&keyword=cycle%20stop%20valves&campaign=938742692&adgroup=49593006147&gclid=CjwKCAjwuvmHBhAxEiwAWAYj-C9CCX7SuioZsakyvhm_EJg7o6YkQ0VOJCwWvS9hDz02ugMmKHvwxhoCE5IQAvD_BwE