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Old 07-20-2021, 11:33 AM   #51
twistedmidnite
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Ha. We bought a camper new 1 year ago in May. Added $2700 extended warranty. In February the slide leaked and ruined the trim inside and wet the carpet. Called the dealership (fun town tyler) to get an appointment. You guessed it, they were so far "behind " that the first appointment was after our 1 year warranty was up. They opened a ticket and was gonna have it open until they could get caught up. Well when I rolled in for my scheduled appointment they tell me "someone closed the ticket" and my factory warranty was expired. They keep it a week or two with instructions to call before any work is done. We get a call that out camper is done and we owe $200 and neither warranty would cover the water leak and trim. They're all crooks.
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Old 07-21-2021, 10:11 AM   #52
bearintex
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Mine is due for seam maintenance in the next couple weeks before we drag it up to the lease. Never done it before. Tips or tricks?
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Old 07-21-2021, 10:19 AM   #53
Dale Moser
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There are several good videos on Youtube about how to use the Dicor self leveling stuff, or some use the Eternabond tape. I chickened out on the eternabond, this time...but I may do it next year.

I hope to do my whole roof this weekend...it's only gonna be 97.
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Old 07-21-2021, 10:44 AM   #54
Briar Friar
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Ive got to replace my bathroom vent cover. Its 7 years old and has developed a stress fracture at the end of the plastic brace where the lift arm attaches. Everything has a useful lifespan then needs to be replaced or repaired. Eso si que es.

Most all my exterior trim caulk seams were tight…then I drove through Shreveport on I20…now alot of my seams have popped open. Eso si que es.
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Old 07-21-2021, 01:49 PM   #55
Mike D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale Moser View Post
I'm coating the roof and seams on my 3 year old camper this weekend with Dicor Coolcoat with ceramic crystals, and self leveling seam caulk. I want to keep the roof/seams in good shape, and am hoping it will help it cool down faster when we pull in on really hot days. Also ordered an RV Airflow unit for the AC to try to make it more efficient. If that doesn't get me where I want to go....I'm calling Mr Birdwell about adding an AC.

I didn't run the slide out yesterday when I inspected the rest of the roof, I assume it will have the same roof material as the main camper?

Lemme know how that $170 piece of foam works Dale.


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Old 07-21-2021, 01:53 PM   #56
Dale Moser
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Lemme know how that $170 piece of foam works Dale.


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It was $150 with a discount code I found on YT...

My AC baaaarely gets it done when it's really hot with zero shade, so I'm grasping for straws before I call Carey.
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Old 07-23-2021, 04:52 AM   #57
Bill M
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I just finished replacing the two skylights on our 11 month old TT. The OEM lenses were poorly installed with over-driven screws and cracks around the perimeter at the flange and up the sides in several places. Should have never left the factory or the dealer this way.


I'm planning to do this mod on the AC. Ours is actually plenty for our rig but anything to make it run less is good IMO.

There are a number of good videos on this mod, this may no be the best but gives the basics of what to do.


Last edited by Bill M; 07-23-2021 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 07-23-2021, 07:02 AM   #58
Mike D
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It was $150 with a discount code I found on YT...

My AC baaaarely gets it done when it's really hot with zero shade, so I'm grasping for straws before I call Carey.

Iíll let you know how ours does next week. We are heading out on a trip where shade is minimal. Just sitting here at the house under shade last weekend I did a test run and set my main AC thermostat to 70į and turned the added unit on high. After about 2 hours, the main AC unit started cycling on/off and just the secondary unit was keeping it very comfortable in there.

Yesterday evening we were in there prepping for the trip. When we first got inside it was 89į in there. After 15 minutes running both units it was down to 80į.

Iím glad we spent the money to
have the 2nd unit added.


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Old 07-23-2021, 08:05 AM   #59
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Iíve had squirrels and ring tails chew through those danged vents and caused a lot of major damage in 2 weeks time!
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Old 07-23-2021, 03:38 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by Dale Moser View Post
There are several good videos on Youtube about how to use the Dicor self leveling stuff, or some use the Eternabond tape. I chickened out on the eternabond, this time...but I may do it next year.

I hope to do my whole roof this weekend...it's only gonna be 97.
That Eternabond works great. I replaced a section of EPDM a few years back and used the Eternabond to cover the seam between old and new. Make sure surfaces are clean of course.

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Old 07-24-2021, 07:45 PM   #61
Dale Moser
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Originally Posted by Snakelover View Post
That Eternabond works great. I replaced a section of EPDM a few years back and used the Eternabond to cover the seam between old and new. Make sure surfaces are clean of course.

Attachment 1056491

Yes sir, Iíve used it before. Iím just worried that doing all of the seams could cause a problem in the future if I have to have substantial work done to it, primarily due to hail.

I treated all the seams with Dicor self leveling caulk today, then rolled on 2 coats of Dicor Coolseal, with reflective ceramic particles in it. Not sure if it will help substantially, but every little bit helps I suppose.

I installed the RV Air block in the AC last night, and it definitely increased the airflow through the ducts A LOT! I also cleaned up the plenum box in the ceiling with some foil duct tape to help it be more efficient.

I think Iím still gonna add another AC unit to it thoughÖ


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Old 07-24-2021, 07:55 PM   #62
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Yes sir, Iíve used it before. Iím just worried that doing all of the seams could cause a problem in the future if I have to have substantial work done to it, primarily due to hail.

I treated all the seams with Dicor self leveling caulk today, then rolled on 2 coats of Dicor Coolseal, with reflective ceramic particles in it. Not sure if it will help substantially, but every little bit helps I suppose.

I installed the RV Air block in the AC last night, and it definitely increased the airflow through the ducts A LOT! I also cleaned up the plenum box in the ceiling with some foil duct tape to help it be more efficient.

I think Iím still gonna add another AC unit to it thoughÖ


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Dale, an extra ac is a good idea. How are you going to install it?
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Old 07-24-2021, 08:04 PM   #63
Dale Moser
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Iím gonna cut another **** hole in the roof.


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Old 07-24-2021, 08:20 PM   #64
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Iím gonna cut another **** hole in the roof.


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That is the way you do it. Lol
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Old 07-24-2021, 08:21 PM   #65
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I spent most of today repairing a couple of leaks on the roof of my RV and sealing the seams on the roof. The leaks were from the stupid skylights which shouldn't be there anyway. Who needs the frigging skylights when there are Windows. Besides, I like it dark when I'm sleeping. Also, why is the AC on the roof? It should be located on the sides. This has been going on for decades. There should never be designed holes in the roof. Okay, rant over.
Not a rant brother, its the idiots way to install stuff. RV’s are made to fall apart, thats the game.

Its why you’ll never have a better RV than a custom build WellsCargo trailer, RV doors and windows, insulated, with treated floors. Then finish the convertion to your liking. You put your vents at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. Make a slot with a closure so you can open it and slide in the AC when you park it.

Last edited by Johnny44; 07-24-2021 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 07-24-2021, 11:09 PM   #66
Dale Moser
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That is the way you do it. Lol

Iím just gonna add a 13.5, would you recommend Coleman Mach, or Dometic?

I know how to do it, just have to figure out where, and how to hide the wiring. It will be on its own dedicated plug/extension cord.


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Old 07-25-2021, 07:16 AM   #67
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A little info for you guys fighting a/c cooling. Check your a/c vents in the ceiling. I removed the grill and found substantial gaps along the duct and vent. Got some aluminum tape and sealed the gaps. Also checked the a/c unit. I taped all the seams and cracks. All of this made a world of difference in my camper.
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Old 07-25-2021, 08:05 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale Moser View Post
Iím just gonna add a 13.5, would you recommend Coleman Mach, or Dometic?

I know how to do it, just have to figure out where, and how to hide the wiring. It will be on its own dedicated plug/extension cord.


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Do you have a current vent you could use. A buddy just added a third unit to his class a and they dropped one in on an existing vent.
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Old 07-25-2021, 10:50 AM   #69
Dale Moser
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Nope, the only vent I have is over the shower in the far back corner of the trailer. Iíll just cut a hole, frame in around it, and tape off the plenum box to seal it good. My only issue may be having to put a wire in wire moulding in one spot.


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Old 07-25-2021, 03:03 PM   #70
Mike D
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Originally Posted by Dale Moser View Post
Nope, the only vent I have is over the shower in the far back corner of the trailer. Iíll just cut a hole, frame in around it, and tape off the plenum box to seal it good. My only issue may be having to put a wire in wire moulding in one spot.


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Dale do you have a close or something near the opening where youíre gonna put the AC?

I have a close about 4í away from mine and Carey fished the Romeo to the closet, got some surface raceway and hid the wire inside it.


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Old 07-25-2021, 04:12 PM   #71
careybirdwell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale Moser View Post
Iím just gonna add a 13.5, would you recommend Coleman Mach, or Dometic?

I know how to do it, just have to figure out where, and how to hide the wiring. It will be on its own dedicated plug/extension cord.


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I really don't have a preference on the units. I think the Colemans are built a little better and the parts are more ready available. The Dometics are quieter and a little lighter.

The way I always do it is start from the inside. If you don't have a vent, start from the general area you want it. If the is a speaker or light in the area. I will pull them down and run something forward to hit the ceiling rafter in front of it and behind it. Hopefully that will be roughly 14". Also I will try to look around and see if anything else is there to block install. It will most of the time fit right between the ceiling rafters. Then I make a small hole that I can cover with something if I make a mistake, if everything is ok. I cut my 14x14 hole ( I generally go about 13 7/8 x 13 7/8). If everything was right you went rafter to rafter. I then drill my 4 corner through the roof, go on top and square them off and cut my hole it roof. I generally tried to frame it up with with 2x6 or 2x8 depending on roof thickness.

Running the wire is sometimes the hardest. Hopefully you have a closet close by that goes from ceiling to floor. If so, I will drill a small hole in ceiling and floor to fish the wire through to the underbelly or storage compartment. Sometimes, I just buy a cord and wire it straight to the unit via the roof and let it hang down the side when using it and strap it down when traveling. Let me know if you have any other questions
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Old 07-26-2021, 03:59 PM   #72
Dale Moser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Dale do you have a close or something near the opening where youíre gonna put the AC?

I have a close about 4í away from mine and Carey fished the Romeo to the closet, got some surface raceway and hid the wire inside it.


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Going one direction there is a cabinet I can get into. The challenge is that it's kind of a dead space under that cabinet, down behind the TV, and into an area around the top of the outdoor kitchen area. I'm gonna have to do some more recon on that side. Going the other way there is a speaker in the ceiling near the wall, so I could fish from the new AC to that speaker hole, and come out the ceiling and just go over a foot, and down 2 feet, with surface raceway, to get in a hollow divider wall attached to the bunk beds with storage area underneath.

Quote:
Originally Posted by careybirdwell View Post
I really don't have a preference on the units. I think the Colemans are built a little better and the parts are more ready available. The Dometics are quieter and a little lighter.

The way I always do it is start from the inside. If you don't have a vent, start from the general area you want it. If the is a speaker or light in the area. I will pull them down and run something forward to hit the ceiling rafter in front of it and behind it. Hopefully that will be roughly 14". Also I will try to look around and see if anything else is there to block install. It will most of the time fit right between the ceiling rafters. Then I make a small hole that I can cover with something if I make a mistake, if everything is ok. I cut my 14x14 hole ( I generally go about 13 7/8 x 13 7/8). If everything was right you went rafter to rafter. I then drill my 4 corner through the roof, go on top and square them off and cut my hole it roof. I generally tried to frame it up with with 2x6 or 2x8 depending on roof thickness.

Running the wire is sometimes the hardest. Hopefully you have a closet close by that goes from ceiling to floor. If so, I will drill a small hole in ceiling and floor to fish the wire through to the underbelly or storage compartment. Sometimes, I just buy a cord and wire it straight to the unit via the roof and let it hang down the side when using it and strap it down when traveling. Let me know if you have any other questions
That's about how I have it planned. There is a piece of trim on the ceiling that tells me where a joist is, so a stud finder should confirm the one in front of it 16" away leaving about 14 1/2" between them, then I can block in the sides and seal off that plenum area. As long as all that is how I think it is, the hole will be easy. There is a HD TV antenna on the roof right where I want to put the AC, but I can sort that out as we go, or later....not that important to me. I just hope it's in the middle of the new AC hole, and not on an edge, but I'll patch it if it doesn't line up great. It shouldn't be too tough, I'll run the wire 1st since that will be the hardest part.

I'm gonna discuss it with my wife more tonight, but I think I'll move forward pretty soon. I went to United RV today and got my eyeballs on the units, ceiling Assemblies, and the exterior plug.
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Old 07-26-2021, 04:57 PM   #73
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I have a question, where do y’all buy the parts? Can any normal hardware store carry what you need?
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:03 PM   #74
Dale Moser
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I have a question, where do yíall buy the parts? Can any normal hardware store carry what you need?

Parts for what, specifically?

Sorry, I kinda derailed the OPís original topic.


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Old 07-26-2021, 09:03 PM   #75
SabineHunter
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Not a rant brother, its the idiots way to install stuff. RVís are made to fall apart, thats the game.

Its why youíll never have a better RV than a custom build WellsCargo trailer, RV doors and windows, insulated, with treated floors. Then finish the convertion to your liking. You put your vents at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling. Make a slot with a closure so you can open it and slide in the AC when you park it.
Yeah, I agree with you on the idiots designing RVs and your ideas sound great, thanx.
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