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    Question about tiller

    First, let me say I am not expert which is why I want some feedback. Bought a Hoyt Satori last April during the Covid craziness & starting shooting every day (had never shot a trad bow before). Thought if I really practice I could by October deer hunt with it. Shot every day & took 3 months before I felt comfortable hunting ethically. The 1st doe I shot at I got excited, forgot all my mechanics & shot over her back. Lesson learned. Ended up shooting 3 does & 1 hog with my Satori after the 1 miss so I AM DEFINITELY HOOKED. I want to get more consistent. I have my brace height set @ 7 3/8" which seems to be the sweet spot. I shoot 3 under with a glove, I checked the tiller for top & bottom limbs & they are matching. Should tiller be different since I shoot 3 under? I also have my top nock set 1/2" above shelf. Is that standard for shooting 3 under? I'm still learning so thanks for all the info for a beginner.

    #2
    Question about tiller

    There are a lot of folks on here more knowledgeable than me, but here is my $0.02....

    Most people that shoot 3 under shoot even or slightly positive tiller on the bottom limb. If your bow is quiet and your arrows are tuned and hitting where you look, I wouldn’t mess with it at all.

    For the record, I shoot 3 under, run a slight positive tiller on bottom limb and my nock point is 5/8” above the shelf. I put way too much string pressure on my middle and ring finger.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      #3
      Question about tiller

      Tiller sounds right

      A nocking point 1/2” high for a 3under shooter is pretty low, but certainly not out of the realm that it could be correct for you. The only way you can confirm that the nocking point is correct is thru some form of tuning. I like paper tuning for that.

      Bisch


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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        #4
        A LOT depends on the individual and the individual bow.
        90% of the bows I build are tillered dead even for both split and 3 under. I’ll go as high as 1/8 positive on top for people that insist that’s what they want.
        Most people can’t tell the difference, they just go off what they’ve heard!
        Just about any bow can be decently tuned with knock height, brace height, ect...
        If it’s working good for you as is go with it!
        If it ain’t broke don’t fix it!!

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          #5
          All very good advice above.

          Tiller is of course, static to the bow.
          BUT, it is very dynamic / very much influenced by shooter input, and will be different from one shooter to the next by something as simple as the size of their hands, and fingers.

          If it's working, leave it alone.

          Rick

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            #6
            Thanks for the input. Always looking to get better & more consistent. I know that the bow is 1 variable but the bigger variable is probably me. Just want to fine tune as much as possible.

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              #7
              Form your own opinion:

              http://buildyourownbow.com/the-truth-about-bow-balance/

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                #8
                Originally posted by hpdrifter View Post
                Couldnt figure 10 in the test represent 3 under string walking? Center grip…string pull 1” below string center. The author says its not a possible shooting style.

                Unless Im mistaken, String walkers dont move their grip an equal distance down the grip as on the string…as in figure 11. ( 1” down from grip center and 1” down from string center.)

                Please any string walkers share some experience concerning this aspect and tiller.

                Does a riser/ bow grip have to be made below bow center for string walking to have a balanced tiller?

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                  #9
                  Man I was going to talk about my TROY Built Tiller...sorry LOL

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